I just finished wrapping an NFC blank with Fuji Ultra Poly thread size A. I thought it was NOCP but there is significant darkening of the wraps when putting on the rod finish. I was using Blue Dun #10.
I was wondering if you use color preservative when you use Fuji Ultra thread?

I don't know if Fuji offers the Ultra Poly in a color fast version. If not, then you need to use color preserver to keep the color as close as possible to the color of the thread on the spool.

I know that on Mud Hole's web site, the product details for Ultra Poly read ......" Use with color preserver, to maintain more of its original color"

The Fuji Blue Dun I got is labeled “NOCP Poly thread”. I guess it’s different than the “Ultra” Poly.

The Fuji UltraPoly thread comes in two different types; regular and NOCP. If the spool doesn’t state NOCP then it isn’t. The regular thread will require CP to maintain the color, otherwise it will darken and become more translucent. The NOCP thread will retain it color and remain opaque without the need for CP.
Norm

Thanks for the replies. I just assumed it was NOCP, but it wasn’t labeled that way. Not a big deal as I stopped finishing when doing the first guide. When I asked “Siri” the links said it did not need color preservative. Last time I trust her!

If you like the result of the first one, do the rest too. Some builders never use CP. Sometimes you can get some really interesting colors by using regular thread and not using CP. If you want a ripe sweet cherry color, use regular merlot or garnet. Experiment, you may find some neat stuff.

Yes, not using CP can give some very nice looks.
On this particular rod, a 8 ft 3wt NFC Gary.
Loomis Classic, I want to try to duplicate the original Loomis finish. I have fished an original for 30 years and it’s my favorite rod. I think the whole Gary Loomis story is an interesting one.

I never use CP. I adjust the colors to look good knowing that they are going to get a bit transparent. So once you know they are going to appear darker and a bit transparent you choose your colors based on what you know the end result is going to be.

However, if one wants bright, vibrant colors with regular thread, CP has to be used. At least I've never found a way to get a bright candy apple red without CP (assuming regular thread, which I like for its sheen.).

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> However, if one wants bright, vibrant colors with
> regular thread, CP has to be used. At least I've
> never found a way to get a bright candy apple red
> without CP (assuming regular thread, which I like
> for its sheen.).

Trick I learned from Ernie Horvath at a NC gathering the year ICRBE was cancelled due to Covid….

Wrap with metallic silver - then overwrap with regular thread (red in the example). No CP - just epoxy. Result is a deep rich candy apple look.

You may find the need to apply a light coat of epoxy to the metallic to make it easier to wrap but it’s not always needed. I use Hitena A metallic which is a hair smaller than Fuji A and can wrap over without issue.

Other colors of underwrap can yield nice effects as wel - such as gold metallic under red

Neat! Didn't know that, thank you.

However, having said that, I would rather do one wrap instead of two, and use CP to get a bright wrap and a lighter tip.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2023 05:13PM by Michael Danek.

They are totally different looks - NCP looks to me like painted on plastic - so to each their own - the extra effort is worth it to me. As to lighter tip…. Well with applying epoxy only after wrapping the second wrap and using the a very fine A metallic and size A nylon, I am going to seriously doubt a noticeable difference on anything other than ultralight blanks but I’m not going to get caught up in that debate

Overwrapped with Maderia and no CP so even a bit lighter than Fuji A



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2023 06:18PM by Michael Ward.

One more a light and bright :)

I haven't tried NCP thread, but I have done test wraps using U 40 and Flex Coat CPs, and the thread doesn't have the same sheen as regular thread with just finish over it.

Michael Ward, I am interested to hear about your results with the Gen 4 Vivid color preserver that you had a thread about not all that long ago. In the pictures you posted it appears that there was a nice sheen to the thread after applying the first coat of Vivid.

I'm curious as to the results after the second coat of Vivid, and then results after you applied finish to the wrap. I have a bottle of the Vivid in my Mud Hole cart. If the thread has a nice rich sheen after you applied finish over it, I'll go ahead and order it.

Like others have mentioned, I choose thread colors based on what I think they'll look like without CP and just finish on them. I've gotten some beautiful colors that way, but it would be nice to find a CP that doesn't change the color of the thread that much, and still have the thread retain that beautiful sheen.

Also, I love the looks of the over wrapping you pictured, Some beautiful vibrant colors. Very nice !!!

I love the look of variegated thread without CP.

Make a test stick and see what thread will or won't look like under epoxy before making a final decision. So easy, and so smart when considering the lifetime of the finished product and the time involved to change it after the fact.
For example, I personally don't mind seeing the guide foot 'shadow' under the wraps after epoxy is applied. There is an elegance to the maker's mark of creation....showing how something was made. and what it is made of.

Lots of good ideas!