All the grip with a hump in them will be larger than a standard pipe seat. AmTackAero, Wiebe/Supersticker, many of the fancy new seats from everyone on the left with a hump in it, Fuji IPS/VSS, AmTack Dagger.

Les Cline X2.

Chris? On that rod you built using the G2 Apex reel seat ..... did you build it up locking, or down locking? I really like the looks of the Apex but I don't like up locking reel seats.

It looks like it would be fine to install it down locking, but I'd like to hear your opinion.

David Baylor Wrote:
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> >... did you build it up locking, or
> down locking?

Down locking.

example 1

example 2



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/27/2023 09:10AM by Chris Catignani.

Chris, thank you very much for the reply, and the pictures. Love seeing what it actually looks like on a rod, and even better, what it looks like installed down locking. I'll be ordering at least one, and possibly two. A couple more questions?

Is that the Bushido finish insert they offer, or is that the actual rod blank I am seeing in the reel seat? My plans are to go with a 17, with a couple of different insert options,. Either the 3K insert they offer, or I am ordering an insert for a Fuji TVS that looks like it may work in the Apex. But I was also considering ordering a 16 Apex to see if I could use it without an insert, and just have the rod blank exposed.

And is that a Shimano SLX 70 MGL I see in that picture as well? If so, I have one on my jerkbait rod. It may be the best reel in that price range that I have ever used. Casts like a dream.

Again, thank you very much for the pictures. Extremely helpful. Off to place my order !!!

Yes...that the Bushido insert...and yes that a SLX 151.
I did one insert with a hydo-dip camo on it that turned out pretty good.

Chris, thanks for the additional response. Much appreciated. Prior to hitting the place order button, I took a closer look the pictures you provided and the picture of the seat on the Mud Hole web site and it was clear that it was probably the Bushido insert I was seeing. Thank you for clarifying that. As your pictures already showed a gap between a section of the reel seat's body, and the insert, I nixed the getting a size 16 minus the insert idea. It was that gap that I would have been looking for by going with just the seat, minus the insert.

This picture [www.rodbuilding.org] shows the reel seat I've used on all of the spinning rods I've built. If I don't end up using the Apex, on the build, I'll end up using the seat and trim rings in the picture. The only thing I may do different from what I see you did, is I ordered a gold swooped aluminum winding check that I hope I can fit between the rear grip and the skinny end of the Apex seat. If that works as hoped I'll most likely eliminate the gold lock ring at the hood / nut assembly and just go with another gold swooped winding check in front of the little EVA nub at the end of the thread barrel. Just depends.

The blank is an OG finish SB 724 X ray blank that I sanded smooth. Guide train will be KR using regular old BC grey stainless steel frames with Alconite rings.Should make for a nice little rod.

Anyhow .. thanks again for the help. Much appreciated.

Something causes page 3 of this thread to run off the right side of my screen. Pages 1 and 2 appear normally.

It’s probably the pictures causing that.

Lynn Wrote:
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> Something causes page 3 of this thread to run off
> the right side of my screen. Pages 1 and 2 appear
> normally.

Yeah...that was the pictures I had in a post...I have since change it to just the links.

Thanks fellas'.

Got my G2 Apex reel seat in the mail today. It's going to be my new go to reel seat on spinning rod builds. IMO it is really sweet looking.

I got a size 17, and I ordered the 3K insert that is made for it, as well as one of the inserts for a size 17 Fuji TVS reel seat. The Fuji insert fits in the Apex quite nicely. The OD of the Fuji TVS insert is .659". The OD of the insert for the Apex is .675", so the Fuji insert is a little loose, not too loose in my estimation, but the insert made for the Apex is very tight in the Apex. Like dang,,,,, this thing is really tight. I don't think I'll have any problem with strength as far as using the Fuji insert. I may use some wraps of 1/4" masking tape to tighten it up a bit, but I don't think it's really going to be needed.

I've said in this thread and others, that I don't like up locking reel seats on spinning rods. But that was based on the factory spinning rods I've had with up locking reel seats. They had way too much of the thread barrel showing , and the groove for the locating tab in the nut / hood assembly, along with the threads of the thread barrel itself, were uncomfortable to me. The nice thing about building your own rods is, you can shorten things like thread barrels, so I'm going to be using it up locking.

Another nice thing about building your own rods is, you can experiment swapping parts of different manufacturers reel seat parts around.

The rod I'll be using the Apex on is going to have a black and gold theme, so the Fuji TVS insert I ordered is the one with the color gold interwoven in the insert. It's going to look super sweet when finished.

Chris, thanks again for posting those pictures of the Apex. Seeing it on a rod is what prompted me to go ahead and order it. REALLY glad I did.

Man I love building rods. lol

Almost forgot .... an Alps size 17 TRS trim ring fits the thread tube on the Apex, perfectly. It's going to be perfect for between the end of the thread barrel, and the rear grip.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2024 08:32PM by David Baylor.

David Baylor Wrote:
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> Got my G2 Apex reel seat in the mail today. It's
> going to be my new go to reel seat on spinning rod
> builds. IMO it is really sweet looking.
> ...
> Man I love building rods. lol

Your welcome David...I also really like the look and feel of the G2 Apex.

Last year I mounted those seats onto MHX CB843 and CB841...love both of these rods.
I was never really a big fan of EVA...but I put a grip on the CB841 to see how comfortable it was...
I fished with this rod last fall at Neely Henry for two solid day throwing a square bill I make and a Bandit 300 series.
Never had any kind of issue...No need to swing on em...just get em on the reel.

Never used a G2 Apex seat. They look sweet! Will look into them. I've been a big Fuji DNPS fan for years, mounted up-locking because of the way I often hold my rigs. Lately, I have more curiosity about other seats I might like better.
(Anecdotal story from years ago: I read a forum post and saw pictures about using the DNPS seat up-locking rather than down-locking because it might fit your hand more comfortably. Like Mike Ballard said, I was so accustomed to thinking about fishing rods looking a certain way, or using components the way I was told to use them it was a little shake up. That simple "switcharoo" of the DNPS, end for end, was a small revelation to me at the time. Surely, Rich Forhan would appreciate my story. Ha!)

Also, I appreciate the specific trim ring suggestion (Alps 17 TRS) for this 17mm seat. Mixing and matching between brands can be a bit confusing at times....some things will work....and others will work WELL. (Norm is awesome knowing what fits what.) I value David's details.

I often fish my spinning gear with the reel foot stem between my pinkie and ring finger. My hand is further forward of the reel than if I put the reel stem between my middle and ring finger. I do this, in part, to get the balance I want. Too, I like to get my index finger out on the raw blank for bite detection. Holding my hand forward makes it easy to reach the blank with a digit. I space my hook keeper and any decorative butt wraps to leave a raw space where my index finger naturally wants to go.

For me, this makes blank-thru seat designs less important for "feeling the bite" since my index finger is in direct contact with the blank already. (This is the same basic idea with my casting rigs as my index finger is out front on the raw blank and my pinkie MIGHT touch the trigger on a trigger seat where the blank may be exposed - most of my hand is palming the reel.) I have more than one blank-thru seat (spin and cast) and like them fine! However, my own fingers often have minimal ACTUAL contact with the exposed blank when I grip the rod/reel and fish it the way I like. I finally noticed this fact only a few years ago.

I will frequently change my spinning rod grip to have the reel further back (all fingers forward of the reel stem) or further forward (split between middle and ring finger) depending on the bait, technique, cast, balance, or retrieve I want. I usually cast with the reel foot stem held between middle and ring finger, though, as I can pick up the line off of the bail with my finger tip easier when ready to cast. Humorously, this is when my fingers are most likely to be in contact with the exposed part of the reel seat....when my bait is in the air, not in the water. Joke is on me!

This discussion has thrown a hopeful and curious ember on the wet wood pile of my brain to get me thinking about my own personal ergonomics.

Chris - What do you love about the CB843 and CB841? What do you use them for in your fishing? To make the question relevant to the topic: What reel seats did you choose for these rods and why?

Les Cline Wrote:
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> Chris - What do you love about the CB843 and
> CB841? What do you use them for in your fishing?
> To make the question relevant to the topic: What
> reel seats did you choose for these rods and why?

Well...since you asked...you need the back story.
I grew up wading rivers and when you catch two pound river smallies on 6lb test you soon realize you need a rod with a little backbone.
This set the stage for using heaver rods for pretty much a whole gambit of lures...which was a mistake.
I restored a few older 6' glass style rods that I liked better for fishing crank baits and was happy for a while.
Once I went to the 7' CB843 (w/ TN handle) I fell in love...it was a pretty good set up for longer billed crank baits
But in the wake of using this rod I felt like it was a little too stout for a square bill and made a CB841 with the apex G2.
I use a Pfleuger president on both rods with 8lb mono. On deep clear lake I will throw 6lb mono.

Thanks, Chris!

Les, that Alps TRS will fit in either end of the G2 Apex seat. As I said above, I got the Apex in a size 17 so all of the parts I've tried interchanging into it, are other manufacturers size 17. When I was ordering the seat and some trim parts I was planning on installing the seat down locking so I was looking for a way to add a bit of color between the end of the seat, and where it would butt up against the rear grip. This is before I had the seat in hand and found out the Alps TRS would fit. Anyhow.... I ordered a 15.5 mm CRB FAWC swooped trim ring from Mud Hole, that I figured the end of the seat would slide over and leave a thin line of color between the seat, and the rear grip. It worked, but didn't leave much of the trim ring exposed. Had I not found out the TRS fits, I think 16 mm one would expose a little more color, and a 16.5, which is the largest they go, would have even more of the trim ring exposed. Although I'm not sure the 16.5 would fit inside the end of the Apex. Might have to do a minor inlet on the reel seat to allow it to slip over the end of the winding check. Hard to say.

Since I am loving this G2 Apex seat and mixing and matching parts to it, I figured I'd post links to a couple of pictures I took. This thing is sweet !!!

First pic is a close up of the seat. The trim piece at the rear of the seat is an Alps TRS -17 in gold. The insert in the seat is a Fuji insert for their TVS reel seat. It's for a size 17 Fuji seat. Exactly one wrap of masking tape makes it fit the Apex perfectly. The little EVA nub at the end is something I make. And the gold winding check is a CRB FAWC swooped aluminum winding check. [www.rodbuilding.org]

Next pic is the the reel seat and rear grip. EVA butt cap is an Am Tack 22. The trim ring between the butt cap and grip is a gold Alps TRB. The rear grip is an 8.75" CFX spinning rear grip. [www.rodbuilding.org]

I had originally ordered a set of Fuji BC grey with Alconite rings for it. But it's just so pretty, that I decided to go with titanium framed guides on it. I'm giving the American Tackle Ti Forged high frame guides a shot. Once they get here if they are at least close to being as nice as the Fuji T2's I've used on a couple of my rods, I'll go ahead and use the American Tackle guides. If they aren't, I'll just have to order a set of T2's and call it a lesson learned. I have a feeling the Am Tacks are going to be pretty nice though. I've used Am Tack guides on a couple of builds, and they're nice guides.

Anyhow .... this is going to be a dandy spinning rod for light Texas rigged baits. A black or green pumpkin 4" Berkley power worm with an 1/8 to 3/16 oz tungsten weight ...... I already pity those smallmouth bass LOL

David -

Please have mercy on the smallmouth bass!! Ha!

Thank you for the detailed information. I am currently in flux about which spinning reel seal to use for my C6O2 X-Ray 703. I want a light weight seat to maximize the lightness of the blank itself. You have me very curious about the G2Apex seat. I think I will order one to see what this is all about. Does the G2 with insert weigh less than a Fuji DNPSM size 20mm? It is an arbitrary question and I do not expect you to weigh these parts, of course.

What is your process for making your EVA nubs?

I just approach it this way.
For myself, I prefer to have a 1 inch or 1.1. inch diameter on the rod and reel seat at the point where I am holding the rod.

It is nor so importat as to the "size" of the reel seat, but what is important is the "size" of the rod the point where one holds the rod.

Particularly, when fishing in cold weather, I want no part of my hand to be touching a plastic or metal - reel seat Rather, I want to be holding a wamer material like Cork, foam, or EVA - ano not part of the reel seat.