I have 3 heavy rods with roller tips and roller bottom guides.
Two are new Lamiglas and one is an old Shakespear.
I tried a little heat on the old rod roller tip and it didn't budge. I don't want to touch the 2 Lamia's until I have it figured out.
Obviously the were not attached with a normal tiptop glue stick.
Suggestions anyone???
Thanks,
Jon

The roller tip was probably attached with epoxy which will require more heat to break its bond. Heat the tube moving the flame over the length of the tube while pulling it straight away from the rod tip with a pliers.

I usually spiral cut them and then pry open with a screwdriver. Glass blanks are very susceptible to heat damage.

.................

For me heat is not an option, it's easy for me to apply too much heat and damage the blank.

I use a Dremel with a cutoff wheel, I make two parallel cuts along the tube 180 degrees apart.

I make short shallow passes along the tube until I think I am going to break thru to the blank, then I use a screwdriver to pry the tube apart.

Have fun

secure your rod in your lathe. get a very strong rubber band (I use newspaper bundle rubber bands) and hook onto the tiptop using a piece of wire to isolate band from heat. Stretch out the rubber band keeping on the axis of the rod and attach to something. Now heat the tube at the tip end. the heat will migrate down the tube and just as soon as the epoxy softens, the rubber band will pull the tip top off before the blank is over heated. Watch out, it will really fly off and could hurt someone if standing in front. I first suggested this back in 2002 I think, but for some reason the search wouldn't work>

Kerry,
I use the same method except with a slight difference:

I simply start with a heavy hook screwed into a stud, so that it does not pull out.

Then, take a heavy rubber band and attach it to the tip top that you want to remove.

Finally loop the rubber band over the hook mounted on the wall.

I then use heat to soften the epoxy while maximum tension is being applied to the tip top by pulling back on the rod. Just as soon as the adhesive has loosened enough the pulling force will cause the tip top to fly off. Now, because the tip top is going toward the wall, the worst that will happen is to put a dent in the wall if it happened to be a finished wall.

But, by pulling on the rod and not the rubber band, there is minimal reason for a person to be hit by the flying tip.

But, again the reason for using this method, is that the tip top will come off the tip with the minimum amount of heat being applied to the rod blank.

Or, an even easier method of tip top removal is to simply use a cut off wheel on a dremal to cut the tip top off of the rod blank by cutting the blank right next to the tip top. For many rods, cutting a tip by 3/8th of an inch will have negligible effect on the rod.

Best wishes

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Kerry,
> I use the same method except with a slight
> difference:
>
> I simply start with a heavy hook screwed into a
> stud, so that it does not pull out.
>
> Then, take a heavy rubber band and attach it to
> the tip top that you want to remove.
>
> Finally loop the rubber band over the hook mounted
> on the wall.
>
> I then use heat to soften the epoxy while maximum
> tension is being applied to the tip top by pulling
> back on the rod. Just as soon as the adhesive
> has loosened enough the pulling force will cause
> the tip top to fly off. Now, because the tip top
> is going toward the wall, the worst that will
> happen is to put a dent in the wall if it happened
> to be a finished wall.
>
> But, by pulling on the rod and not the rubber
> band, there is minimal reason for a person to be
> hit by the flying tip.
>
> But, again the reason for using this method, is
> that the tip top will come off the tip with the
> minimum amount of heat being applied to the rod
> blank.
>
> Or, an even easier method of tip top removal is to
> simply use a cut off wheel on a dremal to cut the
> tip top off of the rod blank by cutting the blank
> right next to the tip top. For many rods,
> cutting a tip by 3/8th of an inch will have
> negligible effect on the rod.
>
> Best wishes

Roger my friend, yes I know and I have the wall I anchor it to in my rod room. Just remember a seminar at Lamiglas it did the demo and didn't have a convenient wall/stud to anchor it to so when I came flying off it went across the room. Fortunate the audience was out front and not to the side where it flew. Still don't know why the search on this site didn't work to find when I first introduced my method?

Hello Kerry.

I was using rubber bands in the 70's & 80's and I don't remember who I learned it from, maybe Doc Ski or Dale Clemens, but any way you look at it the basic way has been around for MANY years.

The last 10-15 years I have a shark hoor with the tip & barb sanded down and I loop that threw the roller with the other end tied to 200lb wire leader about a foot long and wrapped around a door knob.

I sit there with the rod in my left hand and run a bic lighter back and forth over the tube of the tip top keeping pressure on the rod with my left hand till it pops out.

It rarely takes more than a minute to do.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

I quit using heat long ago.....never know what adhesive was used and can't waste time trying only to have to Dremel it off anyway. Cut it, split it, done.

And I was there when Kerry wisely chose the open side of the room as his target!

FROM LONG AGO SHARING IDEAS OF HOW I DID IT:

osted by: Gary L. Rose (---.nas1.holland1.mi.us.da.qwest.net)
Date: July 29, 2002 08:29PM

Anyone know how to remove tip that has been glued on with five minute epoxy?

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Re: Remove tip
Posted by: Chris Karp (---.detroit19rh16rt.mi.dial-access.att.net)
Date: July 29, 2002 09:10PM

Mask off the treaded portion just prior to the tip top itself and apply a flame trying to keep away from the taped area. Keep heating until the top pulls off the blank. Go slowly so as to just add just the right amount of heat to loosen the epoxy and not melt the blank.

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Re: Remove tip
Posted by: Bill Doherty (---.rdu.bellsouth.net)
Date: July 29, 2002 09:48PM

Let me add to Chris's comments: Pull straight off, do not twist the tip top and pull, just pull.

Bill Doherty

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Re: Remove tip
Posted by: Kerry Hansen (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: July 30, 2002 12:28AM

Here is what I do. I put the tip section in my rod lathe and attach a heavy rubber band to the tiptop via a piece of wire like a heavy paper clip or somthing (to try to insulate the rubber band from the heat) and stretch it under a good tension on the axis of the rod and secure the other end of the rubber band. Now I gradually heat the old tiptop near the tip end. when the tiptop tube gets hot enough that the epoxy/cement starts to flow the tiptop will fly off. Just did it on a real tough one (Kunnan). I swear, the guide wrap finish was so hard that it seemed like they had used regular epoxy. Was a real devil to get off to clean up for replacing the guides.

Kerry

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Re: Remove tip
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (---.WLDF.splitrock.net)
Date: July 30, 2002 09:04AM

Bill and Kerry have added some great tip-top removal tips here. Yes, you should only pull a tip straight off - twisting a heated rod blank tip can damage the blank. The constant tension from a rubber band is another great idea.

Chris mentioned using tape behind the tip. It occurs to me that if you see the tape start to smoke, you need to back off. Another good idea. Thanks guys.