Hello rod builders, I am planning to use the ATC Aero Comfort Reel Seat on my next build. I am trying to figure out what are my options to finsh rod in front of the reel seat. Btw plannning to use the ART G2 Carbon grip in the rear.

My question is can I use the ATC G2 Uni-Lock fore grips to finish off the fore grip area?

If not, It is not clear to me that ATC makes a specific G2 Carbon Fore Grip and do not want to use cork or eva. Any thoughts/solutions.

Thanks in advance.
Bob

Every Aero reel seat I have ever used will take the nut off every brand of reel seat I have tried and vice versa, why reinvent the wheel when you build something when there are so many examples of good results out there? No one is reinventing the nut and bolt, I know I would want something I was familiar with and could mix and match if I was ordering for a large rod company.

Hi Spencer, thanks for the reply! Forgive me my ignorance here. Let me see if i understand you. I think you are saying the reel seat threads and nuts are pretty standard. So I should be able to take any hidden thread nut and use that instead of the exposed thread nut that comes with the aero (i.e Fuji KDPS) and then glue any fore grip sleeve over the KDPS hidden thread. In this case, the nut and the for grip become one glued/bonded assembly that locks in the reel.

am I on the right track or am i still completely clueless?

Thansl
Bob

AmTac has carbon fiber foregrip sleeves that fit the G2 uni lock hoods.
[mudhole.com]
Norm

Ok guys, I think I figured this out. The Aero Comfort does not have a uni-lock option. But The Aero CCT does. So by switching to the Aero CCT Uni-Lock version, then I can directly use the ATC G2 uni Lock Hood to finish the fore-grip. It was the fact that aero comfort not being available in Uni-Lock was causing my mass confusion.

Thank you all so much for helping me out!

Bob

You can build the Aero up-locking, too, and have the large "ramp" at the front and not have your hands on threads or other devices.

I strongly prefer the Fuji DPPS size 17 uplocking with a ramp off the front that matches the diameter of the seat hood. Nice smooth transition to the blank.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I dislike the up-locking position for a reel seat very much. One of the reasons I started building my own rods. Just a matter of personal preference.
Norm

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> You can build the Aero up-locking, too,

Michael...that Aero has a palm swell that makes it usually a down locking reel seat.

That is my understanding Michael, that the aeros with pam swell cqn only be used in down locking.

I found that the CRB palm swell reel seat is considerably lighter than the AT seat. I leave just enough threads on the seat to fit the reel and use rubber winding checks in the end. The nut can go over the end of the seat if the winding checks just fits the inside of the reel seat.

Hi Alex, this gets to the heart of my original question of what is the best way to professionally finish one of these seats if you have a standard reel seat w/o the uni-lock nut with tenon for the fore-grip sleeve. Although I understood so little at the time I made the post I am not even sure if what I was asking made sense.

So if I want to stay with the AERO comfort (no uni-lock version) it seems like this would be my best option. the catch is I guess is if you do not want your finger hitting threads you need to be willing to trim the reel seat, and make sure you don’t butt anything up against it such that the nut cannot be backed off. When needed.

Do I understand your suggestion correctly?

I guess I'll have to take my uplocking aero apart and turn it around. Sad. It was working very well. ( sarcasm alert!) A little different, but it can be done and it works well.

Yes, that's what I do. I use the rubber winding check.

Hi michael, sarcasm appreciated.i just thought the grip would not fit the hand properly when reversed. I will try it when I get my aero comfort to see which way I like better. Is their an advantage to uplocking ?

fingers are not on the threads, but it does change the reel position. It's about preference and not an absolute " won't work".

My apologies Micheal....I thought maybe you were confused.
But if you were going to turn an Aero around and fish it up locking...Why would you use THAT reel seat.
Seems like it causes more problems than it solves.

I would use that seat up locking since I wanted to try it that way. It causes no problems.

It is not my favorite seat-I've only built one. But my issue with it is not its functionality- it's that in my opinion it's so ugly. I much prefer the Fuji DPSSD as mentioned earlier. I get the right size with a smooth transition forward, and a classy look. As previously stated, it's about preferences, not function.

I;m with Norman on this. Unless it has a hidden hood, I find up locking reel seats to be extremely uncomfortable. Why anyone would want the heel of their hand resting on the hood and locking nut is beyond me. Throw in the possibility of contact with the threads on the thread barrel, and it's a definite no go.

But as always ....personal preference wins the day. We aren't the ones using the rod, they are.

The Aero reel seat has a large ID at the fixed hood end of the seat into which the grip fits. Hard to image this seat would look good or feel comfortable in the up locking position with no fore-grip. The palm swell becomes a finger swell. Just my opinion.
Norm

Personally, I preferred the Wiebe/Super Sticker spinning seat if I wanted a swell to the rear grip, the proprietary Edge Black Widow seat that is US made also looks like a nice design.