My early morning question on the wsc16 winding check for a ips reel seat do i have to warm the reel seat to get the winding check to fit the reel seat and use some handle epoxy too i have never used these before and dont want mess it up or crack the reel seat thank you

The Fuji WCS16 winding checks are a very tight fit into the IPS reel seats. However, they do fit but need to be pushed into place, they will basically snap into place. I use the top of my bench to push against when snapping the winding check and reel seat together. Make sure the ID of the winding check fits the blank where you need it. So, I first snap the winding check into the reel seat off the blank and before installing the the reel seat to the blank. If you are installing polyurethane foam arbors into the reel seat before installation, make sure you allow enough room for the winding check tenon, and the reel seat end free of any epoxy residue. I ream the reel seat arbor to fit the blank before snapping the winding check into place.
Norm

Thank you Norman like i typed before i have never used these before and dont want to mess it up or crack the reel seat but thank you again

I am not familiar with the winding check you mention nor the reel seat. If the lps reel seat calls for a wsc winding check by the manufacturer, then you are good to go. If not, and you are just guessing, then you came to the right place for an answer. (Maybe Norman Miller will chime in on your specific query!)

In general terms, You don't need to warm up any parts prior to installing them - nor SHOULD you, IMO.

The key to good results, from my experience, is to dry fit ALL PARTS for a snug, non-tight fit, prior to glue-up. If something can be modified for a snug fit with a little bit of sanding or trimming, that is a winner. I don't force-fit ANY parts. I DO prep all mating surfaces with a bit of Scotch Brite or high-grit sandpaper before glue-up. I use a paste epoxy like Rod Bond for all glue-up work.

Winding checks in general are a great topic - especially because there is a fair amount of brand overlap and cross-fits that will work very well. Since WC's are relatively inexpensive, I purchase at least two or three of them in the range that will fit the diameter of the blank and reel seat.. It is not uncommon that I find one of the larger or smaller sizes on either side of my original choice that work the best for me.

Unless you just really like the look of a winding check, consider NOT using a winding check. If you have thread work near the ends of your grips, run the thread epoxy up close and slightly onto the grip - it will form a little ramp that looks like a winding check. (I personally don't notice winding checks very often.

That's more of an answer than you asked for. I hope your direct question gets answered!

What Norm said!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/04/2023 12:30PM by Les Cline.

I believe the Fuji WCS checks were initially designed for the SK2 split reel seats where the threaded barrel and the fixed hood are separated from each other, and these winding checks give a nice finished look. However, they also fit other reel seats if you want no-fore-grip grips. For the most part I like these winding checks because they do give a nice clean finished look. However, on some occasions I might not use them. For no-fore-grip grips, there are also several other winding check options, which don’t have a tenon and thus fit flush to the reel seat barrel. For example, the Forecast no-fore-grip winding checks in both aluminum and rubber, as well as the AmTak/CRB tapered (hosel-like) winding checks. They all work very well. There is also the option of using an epoxy ramp for a no-fore-grip winding checks.
Using winding checks is a personal preference thing. However, they do cover reaming mistake and gives a clean finished look.

Norm