What is the difference between high build and low build?

I am deciding between flex coat or U40 duragloss LS Supreme for thread finishing. Which is most preferred by builders?

Since I don't have a drying motor, which epoxy would set the fastest? I think I will apply the thread finish and leave the rod turning on the finishing motor until it set well enough that I can take the rod off and leave it standing somewhere to complete the curing.

Also, how many thread wraps or rods would 2 oz bottles last for? Would it be enough for 5 rods with 8-9 guides?

All of the modern finish epoxies are very good. High build has a higher viscosity than low build, and thus makes it easier to finish the wrap with a single coat. For a low build epoxy, it usually takes two coats to finish a wrap. In my experience the low build also has a longer working time, meaning it takes longer to fully cure. After about 2 to 3 hrs, rotation can be stopped with most epoxies. However, I would keep the rod horizontal until cured. Two ounces each of resin and hardener is about 60 milliliters total. This amount of epoxy will finish 10 to 20 normal freshwater rods, including fly rods.
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2023 03:39PM by Norman Miller.

I'll probably get flamed for this but I put a guide on my old baitcaster just below the top guide on the butt section to turn it into a spiral wrap type and like it. I didn't want to mix up a tiny amount of the new Flex Coat Lite Formula epoxy I got and sit here rotating the rod by hand for 2 or 3 hours while it set up. I had just got a Solarez UV-Cure Fly-Tie Resin Roadie Kit. One of the 3 5ml tubes is flexible so I thought . . . why not and gave the wrap a thin coat of that, zapped it for 30 seconds and it was done.

I am sorely tempted to use it on my new fly rod build but then what do I do with the new Flex Coat stuff. :)

Now I'm thinking this guy needs a small rod dryer. Oh honey! Daddy needs a new toy. Where did you put my VISA card? lol

“The gods do not deduct from man’s allotted span the hours spent in fishing.” - Herbert Hoover

Bruce,
It is really easy to make a rod dryer.

Be creative and enjoy your creation.

Best wishes

Norman Miller Wrote:
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> All of the modern finish epoxies are very good.
> High build has a higher viscosity than low build,
> and thus makes it easier to finish the wrap with a
> single coat. For a low build epoxy, it usually
> takes two coats to finish a wrap. In my
> experience the low build also has a longer working
> time, meaning it takes longer to fully cure. After
> about 2 to 3 hrs, rotation can be stopped with
> most epoxies. However, I would keep the rod
> horizontal until cured. Two ounces each of resin
> and hardener is about 60 milliliters total. This
> amount of epoxy will finish 10 to 20 normal
> freshwater rods, including fly rods.
> Norm

Slight conversion boo-boo there Norm. Roughly 30ml/oz so there would be 120ml total which should do a pile of rods.

I was raised using Imperial measure but after 3 years at BCIT getting a diploma in environmental chem in my 30s I'm fluent in metric too.

Tight Lines!

“The gods do not deduct from man’s allotted span the hours spent in fishing.” - Herbert Hoover

I’d go with Flex Coat of the two you mention. Flex Coat is pretty much the industry standard from what I understand. That said, I prefer Gen4 myself.

I also prefer Gen4, but would use Flex Coat if it weren’t available. The flat, foil cups work much better for me than the plastic mixing cups. The bubble release of Gen4 in those is quick. There are all sorts of rod building tools that I’ve never bothered to buy, but a drying motor is something I wouldn’t be without. I could rotate every few to fifteen minutes for a few hours, but the cost of these motors starts in the $30 range. If you get distracted during the time the finish really kicks, you can’t pull a “Mulligan”.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/03/2023 12:56AM by Kendall Cikanek.

If you are planning on building rods, then I strongly agree with Kendall, get a rod dryer! They are not that expensive and well worth the money.
Norm

Just to piggy back on the dryer suggestions, I would HIGHLY recommend getting two dryers. If for no other reason, it’s nice to have a backup should one crap out.

Ryan Edamatsu Wrote:
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> Since I don't have a drying motor, which epoxy
> would set the fastest? I think I will apply the
> thread finish and leave the rod turning on the
> finishing motor until it set well enough that I
> can take the rod off and leave it standing
> somewhere to complete the curing.

Wow. I'm a little confused. What exactly IS a rod dryer? I have a small low rpm motor with the fenestrated rubber diaphragm that I bought from Flex Coat I believe. Everything is original, and I have had it for forty years or so. I stick the butt end of the rod into the rubber diaphragm, level the rod on three T stands that are notched, apply my epoxy...and leave it running until I'm convinced that the epoxy will not run anymore. So is there another gadget known as a "rod dryer"?

Is it simply a term for something that may be able to turn multiple rods simultaneously?

Multiple rods could be turned with one motor should you desire to set it up to do so.

Hello Ernie.

Go to the photo section and type in "Rod Dryer" in the search section and you will see loads of dryers.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

"Rod dryer" is a device for holding the rod and slowly turning it so that the epoxy doesn't droop and cures evenly with no bumps/waves. They are not fool proof-you can still get into trouble if you use excessive heat (none is usually necessary at all) or apply too much epoxy. They are easy to cobble with inexpensive motors purchased on line and adapted with something to hold the but of the rod. Yes, look for photos.

Epoxy curing is a chemical reaction; it is not "drying." Since it's a chemical reaction where molecules link up it's important that the proportions be right (use syringes specifically designed for rod building to avoid contaminants), that there be no contaminants on the surface, like hand oil or silicone tracked on from somewhere, and that mixing be very thorough or else areas of the epoxy pool will not cure properly. Take your epoxy from the middle to minimize chances of getting some that was not mixed well.

I highly recommend that beginners utilize the Library section of this forum, many great topics covered there that can keep you out of trouble. Click the link "Library" at the top row of links

Hello All.

Rod dryers range from single 3 RPM set-ups too 100+ rod barrel dryers that turn at higher RPM, too racks of dryers that are all the same RPM's or all different RPM's and everything in-between.

If I am just doing 1 rod, I just leave the rod on my wrapper, if I have multiples, I will use one of my dryer set-ups.

I have dryers with 3RPM, 9RPM, 18Rpm, and adjustable to 500RPM (and that sucker will sling some epoxy).

I have even taken the wrapper (Pac Bay) and slowed down the speed with the rheostat and put a heavy book on the foot pedal and used it as a dryer.

It's like everything else in rod building, you are only limited by your imagination.


Tight Wraps ^ Tighter Lines.

Ernie Blum Wrote:

> So is there another gadget known as a "rod dryer"?

Ernie...what you have is called a "rod dryer". Also called a finish curing device/machine.
There is however a tent that can enclose the motor and stand.
Example at : [mudhole.com]

Sorry guys, but this is how it played out.

Ryan said "Since I don't have a drying motor,.....", then his next sentence is... "I think I will apply the thread finish and leave the rod turning on the finishing motor until it set well enough that I can take the rod off and leave it standing somewhere to complete the curing." That led me to believe that a drying motor and a finishing motor were two different animals. Guess not!

Ernie

Yes and no. We believe in finishing a rod at 100 to 200 RPMs and curing at 6 to 40 RPMs. The 100 to 200 RPMs works really really really well at quickly and efficiently getting the finish where you want it and soaked into the thread effectively. Then move to a slower motor for curing or like with our variable speed motor, turn it down to 40 RPMs and cure the finish on the same motor. Here are some links to videos and our site for more info:
[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

As John stated so well, the answer is use what you need to build the perfect fishing rod.

If a person has a variable speed motor that can be varied from 0 to 300 rpm or so, you have the best of all worlds.

You have a motor that works well to do excellent speed for completing long wraps on the rod.
You have a motor that can be varied at needed from 0 - 300 rpm and anywhere in between for applying finish.
You have a motor that can be varied from 0-20 rpm or so for long term drying.

Also, if the motor is connected to a foot pedal as well as a variable speed switch selectable control you can use either your foot or your hand to vary the speed.

If the motor is reversible and connected to a switch, you can reverse the direction of the motor as needed to accomodate wrapping, wrapping mistake correction, finish application in the direction that works best for you, and the ability to set the direction of the motor for the most convenient long term drying of the rod.

Best wishes

Ryan,
Here, for example is a multiple rod dryer that was built many years ago and has been used over the years to dry many many rods.
The motor in this example happens to be an AC motor with a controller that varies the speed from 0-50 rpm.

In use the dryer is set to turn generally at 10-15 rpm.

But, for special needs can be adjusted to turn more slowly or faster.

[www.amazon.com]