Im looking at a couple blanks from North Fork Composites. My understanding and based on correspondence with NFC the blanks they sell are unsanded.
I have no interest in building a unsanded blank. What is the best way for a guy with a home shop to prep the blank so that it has a smooth surface and the ridges on the blank are gone?
Thanks

Not all of them are unsanded. The X-ray blanks can be purchased either unsanded (ridged) or sanded (smooth/mirror black). The HM, IM, and SM series are all sanded. If you have an unsanded blank and want it smooth, then wet sand it with 500 to 800 wet/dry sand paper. This will remove the resin ridges making the blank smooth. Doesn’t take long to do this. I personally don’t mind the unsanded blanks, but others don’t like them. If you want to clear coat the sanded blank then wipe on some Perma Gloss. It gives a nice light, smooth and durable finish.
Norm

Be careful about sanding an un-sanded blank. This can lead to two trouble areas. First, it may very well void the blank warranty. Second, if you aren't careful, you can damage the blank.

If you choose to sand regardless, heed this tip - ridge resin sands clear/white. Carbon is black. If you start seeing black sanding residue, you're into the blank walls.


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Steve,
Very good advice / tips from Norman and Tom, especially the white versus black sanding residue!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

It's super simple to do. I got 2 of the X ray blanks before they offered the smooth mirror black finish option. I personally used 320 and 400 grit sand paper to do mine, as I expected the resin to be tougher to sand than it actually is. It is not that tough at all, and the 500 to 800 grit is probably the best way of going. Especially if you've never done it before.

I recently ordered 2 of the OG finish X ray blanks, and as I don't like the ridged surface either, I'll be sanding them. As I have a little experience doing it, and know what to expect, I'll probably go the 400 - 600 grit route, and then a final buffing with a gray Scotch Brite pad.

Oh and I just chuck the blank up in my power wrapper and turn it at I would guess, somewhere near 200 RPM. If you do chuck it up in a lathe or something similar, be sure you put some kind of tight fitting plug in the butt of the blank to alleviate any chance of crushing the butt of the blank with the jaws of the chuck. It's not like you really have to chuck the blank up that tight, it's just what I think is a good preventative measure.

It's easy to do though.

When I do the sanding, I start with 220, then 320, then 400, then 600, then 800 and finally close with 1200.

Except fo rthe 220 and 320 I do all of the sanding wet.

I just put the butt end of the blank in a 5 gallon bucket with about 3 gallons of water in the bucket and it is easy to keep the sand paper wet.

A light touch is the way to go. Be observant and change sand paper grit when it is time to do so and avoid oversanding.

Note,
It is always a good idea to wear leather gloves with working with glass or carbon fibers.

A sliver of glass or carbon is really nasty if it get jammed into your hand. Also, wear eye protection, and long sleeved shirt and long pants with at least socks on. i.e. you don't want any exposed skin.

It is also a good idea to have a fan blowing out the window so any fiber dust gets picked up by the fan and exits the room, before entering your lungs.

Take care

With respect to David's comment about chucking up a rod blank.

First take masking tape or similar and put about 3 or 4 wraps of tape - tightly around the butt of the blank.

Then, take a piece of solid stock, like graphite or fiberglass that is larger than the inside dimension of the butt of the rod. Take this rod and cut it to about 6 inches or so.

Then, chuck it into a drill, a drill press, or similar. Then, working in concert with fit checking into the butt of the rod, sand a taper on the end of the piece of solid stock that you are making tapered.

Continue this process until you have a perfect fitting piece of tapered rod that is a jam fit into the butt of the rod blank. Note: The tape wraps on the outside of the rod butt, will insure that the pressure from inside the blank does not split the blank.

Note:
If you are working with a butt diameter larger than any solid stock you have on hand, then use masking tape to build up a tapered arbor - that will be similar to the tapered arbor that you are sanding to shape for smaller diameter blanks.

Then, use what ever chucking method you have to chuck the piece of tapered stock into the chuck and insert the rod blank in question onto the piece of tapered stock giving it a twist as you insert the tapered stock to secure the tapered stock into the rod blank for your work on the blank.

Best wishes.