One of my rods have some coating or clear coat that is separating from the paint in some places. What is the best way to remove the coating without hurting the paint underneath? Scraping?

I use heat sparingly and then a razor blade. Caution should be taken if you go this route. I have an extremely steady hand. If you don’t feel comfortable doing that, use a credit card, etc…

Ryan.
To answer your question, A PRAYER! It is unlikely that you will be able to save one or the other; but then, I don’t know your attention to detail. If it is over a large area, you may be SOL. If smaller areas such as limited to guide wraps, mildly heat and scrape the unsightly epoxy and replenish with new (admittedly easier said than done). Good luck!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

One solution would be to remove the guides.
Give it a light roughing with a green Scotch Bright pad.
Then apply a coating of PermaGloss.

Ryan,
As Mark said - not likely.

IN a case like this, I remove the guides.

Then, I use very gentle heat and a razor blade held at right angles to the blank to remove everything that is coating the blank.

Then, generally speaking, I just go down to 1200 sand paper used wet to give the blank a mirror finish.

Then, I wrap the guides back on the bare blank and coat the wraps with standard wrap finish.

No paint needed or necessary on the bare blank, when you get it down to the bare blank and give it a nice polish.

There are many commercial makers who ship their finished product this way. i.e. an ultra smooth bare blank - with no additional finish applied to the finish to add extra weight.

Take care

I’ve seen a couple of commercially made rods that have had some sort of clear over coat that started to flake off the rod. It did not appear to adhere to the underlying finish very well. Because of this, I was able to remove this outer coat by gently getting under it with my finger nails or a utility knife and just flake it off a little at a time. It came off pretty clean without damaging the underlying finish. Try flaking it off before trying the more drastic procedure of removing all of the finish on the rod by scraping it with a metal blade.
Norm

I use heat from a heat gun, after about four to ten seconds of heat on the epoxy the epoxy will start to come off, and from there, it is just a matter of peeling and cleaning the rod.

Glenn McMurrian

You may have success with car scratch remover with several applications. It may remove the thin clear coat without destroying the paint underneath.

If you have problems with scratches after removing finish, take the shine off the blank with a scotch brite pad or very fine steel wool, clean blank and wipe on a coat of Perma Gloss. Blank will look almost brand new.
Norm

Gentle heat and a plastic picnic knife !

The below article is about surface preparation but it has excellent info all around . Those Scotchbrite pads are superb .

[www.rodbuilding.org]




It is a simple matter for us to obtain this surface condition. We do it with an abrasive material called Scotchbrite made by the 3M company. There is no true substitute for this particular item that I am aware of. Scotchbrite comes in many grades and grits just like sandpaper. The ones we use for our rodbuilding are Type-S-7448 Grey-ultra fine and Type-S-7446 Grey-medium fine. Always use the ultra fine when you don't want any scratches to show and use the medium fine when scratches don't matter and you want faster abrasion/preparation such as on reel seats and handles.

Thanks for the info, Chris. I never heard of this concept before. Where can I find the Scotchbrite you mention? I've only seen the dark green pads for dishwashing in stores.

Ryan Edamatsu Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks for the info, Chris. I never heard of this
> concept before. Where can I find the Scotchbrite
> you mention? I've only seen the dark green pads
> for dishwashing in stores.

I use the ones from the store...but you can get other (finer) grits from Lowes or Home Depot.
Be sure to read the article posted by Chris Nash above.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/05/2023 08:12AM by Chris Catignani.

Ryan Edamatsu Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Thanks for the info, Chris. I never heard of this
> concept before. Where can I find the Scotchbrite
> you mention? I've only seen the dark green pads
> for dishwashing in stores.



I've been unsuccessful finding the specific mentioned pad's from that article in local stores so I just looked them up online and bought the right kind that way . Lowes and Home depot carry Scotchbrite pads but they didn't have ( Type-S-7448 Grey-ultra fine and Type-S-7446 Grey-medium fine) I was looking for when I checked my local stores.

Hello Ryan.

Chris is right they can be hard to find, my Lowe's carries them but if they don't go on-line to 3M and they should have them.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

chris c nash Wrote:

> I've been unsuccessful finding the specific
> mentioned pad's from that article in local stores
> so I just looked them up online and bought the
> right kind that way . Lowes and Home depot
> carry Scotchbrite pads but they didn't have (
> Type-S-7448 Grey-ultra fine and Type-S-7446
> Grey-medium fine) I was looking for when I checked
> my local stores.

Lowes has a few different kinds....they are all not under a "Scotch-Brite" name....but listed under 3M.
[www.lowes.com]
[www.lowes.com]
[www.lowes.com]

Ryan,
McMaster Carr sells gray ScotchBrite pads but only in a box of 20. But once you use them, you’ll find MANY other uses other than just rod building.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

You can also find the Scotch Brite pads at some auto supply stores.
Norm