Hi all.

I just received an order of 18 spools of ProWrap threads to build my fly rod with only to find it's a lot finer than I thought it would be and with my tired old eyes almost impossible to work with. I have a lighted magnifying lamp that is about 3x and wear reading glasses but it's still very hard to see what I'm doing. When I need to get both hands in to do things it's in the way so is really ticking me off. I need to find some type of lenses I could wear over my reading glasses.

I have been practising using much heavier sewing threads and have got pretty good at doing fade wraps, olive branch and sawblade designs on a scrap rod butt section.

A problem is that our fly fishing season is getting closer to an end here in northern Alberta and more delay waiting for lenses once I find something to order then getting the fancier wraps on the rod might mean I won't get to put a fish on it until next May or so.

I'm thinking I could just use the heavier thread to quickly get this rod usable and just use a little head cement to to make sure the tag ends don't come loose and make it easy to remove them without messing up the blank. The cork grip is all done, coated with U-40 and reamed to fit just right where it needs to be on the blank. That could be glued in place but if I affix the reel seat permanently it would make it difficult to do the wraps above the winding check as the seat has a groove in it for the reel foot and won't roll smoothly on my little CRB CORE rod wrapping unit.

Does anyone think that I could wrap heavier thread like cotton string or some waxed poly thread I have designed for use with an awl to build up the base of the blank enough to jamb it on there with just a bit of epoxy near the top so it will stay long enough for a few short trips out and be easy to remove leaving the butt end nice and smooth to easily rotate while I redo the guides over the winter?

I'm itching to get this done but not going to rush it and be forever unhappy with the rod. I took my time with the grip and shaped it to fit my hand much better than any of the grips on my other half dozen fly rods. A hall-wells style with the big end at the top.

Any recommendations about this or decent magnifying glasses that can be used with my reading glasses would be greatly appreciated.

The rod is a 10', 2-piece, 5wt, PacBay Tradition II model #T2F1005.

Tight lines everyone!

Do all your wrapping on the rod blank leaving the reel seat and grip hanging, just find a way to strap down the blank lightly so it stays in the wrapper and still turn easily. You can use tape with the area on the blank taped sticky to sticky, make a quick velcro held strap, thread wrapped over blank and anchored with tape or something, etc.

There are a number of magnifying visor/head band types of eyeglasses. Some come with different powered replaceable lens, and some come with a built-in light source. Many are quite inexpensive and they work well.
Since you are a fly fisherman, I assume you have a fly tying bobbin. You can certainly use one to quickly secure guides to a rod for temporary use by spinning it around the blank while using a tie off loop. A little color preserver will prevent unwrapping, and it is also easy to remove with a little alcohol when the time comes for doing your permanent guide wraps. When I do test casting I usually just temporarily wrap the guides in place with a junk thread. Looks are not that important for test casting, but guide security is. Takes very little time to temporarily wrap guides to a blank.
If you are having problems with size A thread, try size B, it is easier to wrap and looks very good.
Norm

"Do all your wrapping on the rod blank leaving the reel seat and grip hanging, just find a way to strap down the blank lightly so it stays in the wrapper and still turn easily. You can use tape with the area on the blank taped sticky to sticky, make a quick velcro held strap, thread wrapped over blank and anchored with tape or something, etc."

I'm not quite certain on some of that but I kinda get it. Something like that could work and it doesn't have to look pretty as I'll take function over form so I can give it a try.

Thanks for another idea.

I guess I don’t get it. I always glue my reel seat and grip in place before I wrap my rods. Makes no difference if it’s a fly, casting, or spinning rod, the handle goes on first.
Norm

I just can't seem to get this forum to quote the way it should so doing it this way.

"There are a number of magnifying visor/head band types of eyeglasses. Some come with different powered replaceable lens, and some come with a built-in light source. Many are quite inexpensive and they work well.

Since you are a fly fisherman, I assume you have a fly tying bobbin. You can certainly use one to quickly secure guides to a rod for temporary use by spinning it around the blank while using a tie off loop. A little color preserver will prevent unwrapping, and it is also easy to remove with a little alcohol when the time comes for doing your permanent guide wraps. When I do test casting I usually just temporarily wrap the guides in place with a junk thread. Looks are not that important for test casting, but guide security is. Takes very little time to temporarily wrap guides to a blank.

If you are having problems with size A thread, try size B, it is easier to wrap and looks very good.

Norm"

I've seen quite a few on Amazon . ca and the ones with various lenses look not bad. I don't have really bad eyes but have used reading glasses for over 30 years. These are almost 3 years old and I'll be going for new ones in November when my Blue Cross will get me some. That should help but in the meantime. . .

I've got lots of bobbins but also the basic rod wrapper CORE unit from CRB. It's getting the wrap above the winding check that will need the butt section bare and smooth as I'm planning a fade wrap from silver into black with a sawblade then a small hook keeper then possibly a half sawblade finish. I won't bother with that part for the try-out. I'd really prefer doing that using the proper thread feed as my skills are not up to what they used to be as yet and I'm a bit of a perfectionist sometimes. :)

I knew there were different sizes but assumed any of the rod threads would be much thicker than the fly-tying thread I used on all the other rods I built many years ago. The sheet I ordered from doesn't even mention thread size so I just typed up my email with the 18 I wanted and sent it off. Sent it last Sun night and had it here in Friday's mail Long way from Victoria, BC on the Island to Peace River, AB so pretty speedy service and it was sent regular post too.

I like the fine thread and will get some lenses that work for me as I plan on tying a lot of flies and jigs over the long, cold winter too so better get used to it. I do have about 60yds of an old Gudebrod silver/black size B I can use to get the guides on quick too but even the sewing thread I've been practising with would do in a pinch. It's 75% polyester and 25% cotton. Got some of that for tying up jigs.


I think I might just go with my plan but switch to the colour protector as you suggest as I have a new bottle handy.

Thanks for another good idea!

"I guess I don’t get it. I always glue my reel seat and grip in place before I wrap my rods. Makes no difference if it’s a fly, casting, or spinning rod, the handle goes on first.
Norm"

I don't see how I could do that using the basic rod wrapper I have. With a better wrapper I could clamp the end of the reel seat in the chuck but I don't have that. Just that little V to lay the butt section in so I can have the winding check area above my thread tensioner. The guide above that are doable with the seat on I'm certain.

You did make me think about something else I could do tho. I have a small screw-in fighting butt on the seat so I could get some cold-rolled 1/4" rod at the hardware store and thread the end a 1/4" to screw it into the end of the seat and let that sit in the V and spin smoothly. I worked in a machine shop for 5 years so that is easy-peasy and I have a good set of taps and dies.

Thanks a bunch for making me think about how to do it with the seat on! A little push in the right direction is all I need sometimes. :)

Tight lines Norm!

Bruce,
Yes, age does tend to get in the way of doing things as well as one could do, when there were fewer years on the body and eyes of the person in question.

Over the years, I have settled on a system that works very well for me.
For my normal days I were lined tri focal glasses. i.e. reading on the bottom, mid range in the middle and distance on the top lens of the trio.
In addition,
I have a pair of single vision reading glasses that are calibrated for 12 inches.
A pair of computer single vision glasses that are calibrated for 24 inches.
A pair of distance single vision glasses that are calibrated for 5 feet and beyond.

Then, for rod wrapping and doing other very intense detail work, I employ a head band containing a changeable lens.
I typically use the 2.5 or the 3x lens -- in conjunction with my computer glasses.

This combination of a pair of single vision main glasses in conjunction with the head band 2.5 or 3x lens give me a working distance of excellent magnified vision of about 18-20 inches which is a nice working distance when wrapping rods.

In addition - lighting:

Note: I do NOT have any head band mounted light that may be nice but it adds weight and causes the head band to be more cumbersome to wear.

Lighting:
I have very bright general room lighting in my 8 foot ceiling of my rod wrapping room. I have ceiling fixtures running wall to wall every 4 feet across the ceiling.

In addition, I have a very bright and intense local light that Is positioned on the right side of my rod wrapping area about 8 inches from my wraps. I am left handed and wrap with my left hand. If I have the light on the left side of my wrapping area, there is a shadow in the wrapping area that negates the effects of the very bright light.

------------------
Very intense close light is essential for highly detailed work. One finds this similar intense - close up light of any lab, or jewelry store - which perform highly detailed work that simply requires this very bright close up lighting.

Examples:
This is typical of the head band magnifier that I use:
[www.gamenerdz.com]
With no light on the head band, the magnifier is very light and non tiring for hours of use.

Example of the Swing arm light that I use to illuminate the rod wrapping field of vision:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Note that the inverted coffee can makes an excellent base to raise the light to be hear the height of the rod being wrapped. This height gives me maximum flexibility to get the light exactly where I need it for wrapping.

--------------------------------------------------------
Note:
With the very bright light illuminating everything and with the magnifier mounted on my head, and with the single vision glasses giving me excellent vision at a convenient distance from my eyes, it is pretty easy to build for hours at a time with no additional fatigue or issues.

Note:

Please do yourself a favor and if you happen to be a user of variable vision glasses, set them aside when building rods and rather - use a pair of single vision glasses with the single vision lenses giving you your entire field of vision - perfect focus.
I simply go to Walmart and purchase single vision prescription glasses with non coated plastic lenses for about $30 per pair of glasses. This makes it easy to afford multiple pairs of glasses to afford excellent vision for the job at hand.

Take care

Thanks for the reply and link Roger.

Currently I have my 3 yo reading glasses and similarly aged distance glasses for driving. As we're surviving on my gov't pension and my wife's modest disability I've been waiting until I'm eligible for a new pair of reading glasses this Nov. from my Blue Cross medical. Cash poor, credit rich. I was thinking of getting bifocals this time but from prior experience I really don't want to. Tripping down stairs or over objects on the ground when wearing them was common.

I figured that having a headlamp would be an issue with weight and I can rig a good light so something like those in that link would be pretty good but unavailable atm. I did see a headband set with the multiple lenses with a removable headlamp so those could work and I can leave the headlamp off unless I need it for something specific.

I don't really need new distance glasses so will be getting single vision readers again. I'm pretty sure part of the problem is my prescription is out of date. It sure takes a lot of the fun out of this struggling to see what the heck is going on but I'll get it worked out.

Tight lines!

Both the Pac Bay Tradition and Rainshadow RX7 10 footers, are nice, easy to live with fly rods. You'll enjoy fishing with it.

Spencer Phipps Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Both the Pac Bay Tradition and Rainshadow RX7 10
> footers, are nice, easy to live with fly rods.
> You'll enjoy fishing with it.

I already have the feeling I'm going to love using this rod. I have brand new 5 and 6wt lines already spooled up and hoping it likes the 5wt the best so I can use the 6wt on grandpa's old rod and the broken 4/5wt that seems to cast just fine with the 6wt line as well. I need to relocate some guides to work with it's shorter length tho. I take granddad's old fiberglass rod out every spring to get a trout in his honour then use something else for the rest of the season. Almost lost it once so it's just a once in a while thing. 6wt is little big for the little trout lake I go to so a 4 or 5 was needed but I bet a 2 or 3wt would work well there too so might be forced to build one of those over the winter. ;)

I like a softer action so might even get one of the more modern fiberglass blanks and make one of those. Hard finding 2-piece blanks these days and I am not enthused about 4 piece ones. I'd like to find a 12 -14 ft 2-piece 10wt to build a switch rod too. Even a 3-piece if such exists.

Tight lines!

There is another possible solution, using the newer size "B" thread. It is much easier to wrap than the size "A" yet retains much of the appearance of the finer "A" thread, without the "rope" look of size "D" thread. I have started using size "B" as my go-to on fly-rod builds as my 72+ year-old eyes don't function any better than my fat fingers! You can get size "B" from a variety manufacturers and sources, but my favorite is ProWrap. ProWrap size "B" can be ordered through Mudhole or you can get it from an American Tackle retailer.

I do like using finer thread and being only 3 years behind you Richard I don't have the sharp eyes of my youth either. Standard size fingers but fairly severe arthritis that causes spasms fairly often when doing fussy things like wrapping or even tying my shoes. Time for velcro ones so I can become a meme I guess. ;)

I was hunting all over for some sort of headset magnifiers that will work with my reading glasses and found ones I liked but wasn't sure if they were going to be the best. Can go up to 10X with the flip in small magnifying glass but I hopefully won't need that very often if at all. It's been almost 3 years since I got the reading glasses I have so once I get new ones in November that should help as well.

I sent Andy Snedden an email to ask his opinion about them and he kindly replied quickly that they were the same style he used but got his at Lee Valley where they didn't seem to stock them any more. The company I'm getting mine from is here in Alberta so that was nice. Mudhole sells a similar set for $20 but by the time I add exchange and shipping they would be $60 which is what mine cost with free shipping anywhere in Canada.

All the threads I ordered from Andy are Size A. I ordered a variety of colours as I have a few rods that need hook keepers etc and would like to match their wraps as closely as I can.

I plan on tying a lot of flies and jigs over the winter and hopefully another rod build too so will get a lot of use out of these. Hope they are here tomorrow as we are off to the big city on Friday.

[magnifyingglasses.ca]

“The gods do not deduct from man’s allotted span the hours spent in fishing.” - Herbert Hoover

Bruce,

The article is nice but contains some inaccuracies. I developed the Simple Spiral (another rod builder wrote about it) and the rod shown and described as a Simple Spiral isn't. It's a standard 90-transition guide spiral.

...............

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Bruce,
>
> The article is nice but contains some
> inaccuracies. I developed the Simple Spiral
> (another rod builder wrote about it) and the rod
> shown and described as a Simple Spiral isn't. It's
> a standard 90-transition guide spiral.
>
> ...............


I have only recently heard about spiral wrapping so just put that link up as one article I'd read that helped lead me to try it.

If you have any other good links I'd like to read them.

I was looking in the acid wrap thread after seeing a response in my email.

Thanks Tom.

“The gods do not deduct from man’s allotted span the hours spent in fishing.” - Herbert Hoover