Hello! I recently purchased my first two-piece Surf Rod which was a Tsunami Trophy II 9'. I know it isn't a custom rod, but I figured I'd ask here since most of you are Rod Builders, and are way more experienced with Rods than me. I noticed at the end of the Ferrule there was a foam plug. When I was handling the bottom half of the rod, the plug got slightly pushed in at an angle of maybe 1/4". Will the plug still function correctly with it slightly pushed in? I was told that the plug is only there to keep dirt/debris out of the Rod Blank. I was also wondering if it provides any structural support to the Ferrule. If it does, with it being slightly pushed in will that negate any of the structural support the plug provides? I was also wondering how necessary is a plug for support. Say if it were to fall out, what are the chances of the Male Ferrule cracking with or without it? I'm definitely overthinking this, but I'd appreciate anyone who answers my questions.
I'll post some pictures here of the rod: [imgur.com]

The plug does not add to the structural integrity of the blank, it's as you said, it is there to keep foreign objects out of the blank.

If it will give you comfort you can carefully add a drop or two of super glue to the end of the plug to keep it from advancing any further.

Have fun

Actually, it does provide a bit of structural integrity to the end of that section. An open tube is easier to deform/crush when it doesn't have something in the end such as the usual foam, cork or in some cases, a plug of gel epoxy. However, I've rarely seen one fail while it was assembled either with or without said plug.

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Thank you both for the responses. Would you recommend I leave the plug how it is slightly pushed in? Or should I try replacing it? When I touch the plug it seems pretty firm in its place, so I don't think it's loose. If it's slightly pushed in and isn't going to affect it or make the ferrule more likely to crack I'm just gonna leave it then.

Put a drop or two of glue in there as John said.

Colin,
While I may not be as experienced as some of the veteran rod builders on this site, in the 50+ years that I have been fishing, all of the plugs as you described which I’ve seen are soft, compressible foam, not rigid foam such as reel seat arbors or composite foam core material. Therefore, that suggests that such foam plugs are simply intended to keep debris out of that rod section. I used to install a .375in long composite foam core (3lb / cubic foot) in the center of the internal tubular FG spigot ferrule of my CARL Ferrule System but don’t bother anymore and without any incidences. Although that foam core plug would offer some support to the center of the spigot, at only 3lb / cubic foot, it would only restrict the ovalling under load, not eliminate it. I think that it is a mistake to put something rigid such as epoxy in the end of a rod section; doing so disrupts the natural continuous ovalling of the blank which interferes with the natural flex curve.
In other (less) words = you’re good to go = fish it and have fun!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

The plugs are only semi-rigid because the sections need to be able to slightly oval under load. This is why such plugs are cork, EVA or a gel epoxy, rather than anything such as plastic, etc.

If the plug has simply moved down a bit, take a small drill bit and follow with a screw to pull it out. Then add a touch of adhesive and push it back it.

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IMO the plugs were not intended to add strength to the blank. I believe they are installed to;

1) To keep dust, dirt and other debris out of the blank.

2) To add a finishing look to the assembly and be more ascetically pleasing to look at than an open hole.

In reality, your rod with care will serve you well with or without the plug.

Have fun

Tom, If I do decide to replace the plug are there any websites that sell EVA plugs? Also, what adhesive would I use?

Hello All.

Here are a couple articles on "plugs" in RodMaker Magazine.

Volume/Issue..../Article.........Author.................page.

5/2 Ferrule Plugs. By Russ Gooding. 22
4/1 Ferrules, Repairing Plug And Spigot. By Ralph O'Quinn. 16


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Just take a short piece of brass tubing and punch a plug that's just a tad larger in OD than the ID male end of your ferrule. Put a smidgeon of GOOP or similar on it and push it into the open end.

Ralph O'Quinn used to advise just putting a dollop of RodBond in the end of the male ferrule. I like the EVA myself.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/14/2023 03:31PM by Tom Kirkman.

I’ve plugged the hollow male ferrule using Rod Bond epoxy mixed with a small amount of black pigment. Just pack a little into the end of the ferrule, wipe away any excess and and set aside to cure. Rod bond is a very flexible epoxy and it will stay in place indefinitely. Works great as a ferrule plug, and I’ve never had a failure.
Norm

Thank you all for the advice! Tom, I was wondering if you saw the pictures of the plug I posted on the Imugur link? You can see it isn’t too far pushed into the blank. Do you think with it only being pushed in slightly that it would still be able to provide support to the tip of the ferrule? I was thinking of maybe putting a drop or two of superglue or another adhesive on top of the plug as others recommended just to keep the plug from pushing down any further. Do you think that’ll work? I’m just worried that I’d mess up something trying to take out the current plug and then putting a new plug in. I’d also have to buy the supplies to do so, since I don’t have any of the materials needed.

Here is the Imugur link I created with the pictures of the tip of the male ferrule showing the plug: [imgur.com]

What you have there is fine. Sure - a drop of super glue or whatever won't hurt a thing.

........

Any time that I have an open male end rod blank that needs to be plugged, I do the following.

I simply take a piece of solid fiberglass, or graphite blank that is larger than the rod blank. I chop off about 4 inches of blank and chuck it into a variable speed drill.

Then, with the piece of rod blank spinning, I will hold the extended 3/4 inch of rod blank against a spinning belt sander with 100 grit paper on the sander. I will sand and will frequently check to see for the time that the ground down blank, will just barely fit into the open end of the rod blank.


Once the end of the blank has been turned down, I will either use instant glue or epoxy to glue the plug securely in place, using the unground side of the plug as a handle. When the glue has cured, I simply put the rod section in my mini chop saw and saw off the plug that is extending past the end of the rod blank.

This entire exercise takes about 5 minutes. I have never experienced nor have any of my clients - experienced any issues with a rod that has the end of the rod plugged in this fashion.

Best wishes.

I'm most likely gonna purchase a small tube of GOOP All Purpose Adhesive as Tom said he uses and put a small drop on a toothpick and go around the outer edge of the plug just to keep it in place. I read that GOOP is flexible, unlike superglue. I think super glue would possibly crack over time do to the constant flexing of the tube.

Looking at the photos, the end of the blank looks like it has a wall thickness thick enough to resist any distortion severe enough to break an adhesive bond.

IMO If that blank should flex enough to compromise the bonding of the plug, then I am afraid there are more serious issues than a loose plug.

To sum up the responses;

1) Leave it as is and keep an eye on it, address it if it moves deeper into the blank..
2) Apply an adhesive to the end of the plug
3) Replace the plug.
4) Remove the plug all together.

Any of these options will work, the choice depends on ones comfort zone.

Have fun

I hope we're done here.

We were, until you bumped this back to the top... Like I just did.

I know a Blank MFR who uses a firm rubber tapered plug. A little Super glue or rod bond at the tip of the "foam plug" is going to have absolutely no effect on the deformation of the tip of the male ferrule. it is located in side the wall of the female ferrule end so double wall at that location and far less effect than a guide riding on the blank.