Gap between the reel seat and nfc rear grip after epoxy paste is just under 1/16 inch. Think the kids got messing with it before dried or builder error lol .was thinking mixing 5 min epoxy and applying thin coat to the gap. Probably better options.
Thanks in advance to the great builders out there, Mark B

If it is a fairly even gap, I’d mix rod fish with the appropriate color of VooDoo dust pigment. This will turn the “oops” into something attractive. Filling that gap with five minute epoxy won’t likely add any meaningful strength, while looking messy.

I would see if I could get a sliver of EVA in there than slit the bottom and slide it in well glued, trim fairly close with razor blade or equivelant, let set, then finish after it's dry.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/05/2023 03:00PM by Spencer Phipps.

Here's one more idea:

Mix Tight Bond 3 Glue with Cork Dust into a paste. (Or you could use any other 'coloring' material or pigment - not oil based)
Press into the gap with a damp finger.
Let dry for 20 minutes.
Wipe off excess with a damp paper towel.

Les, I have built probably 15+ NFC rods (spinning, casting and fly) with the soft touch carbon grips. The issue I had is when I put the paste on the rod and in the grip and reel seat then then push them together it builds up pressure in the grip and seat. If it is not checked and tightened (pushed together) until the grip and seat is set it will separate.

I had the same pressure separation happen to me between a CFX grip and a SeaGuide XCSSHSC reel seat. Fortunately, I noticed it before the epoxy kicked. I now chamfer and take a little off the end of grip tenon with sandpaper. The fit between these two parts is snug. I don’t know if the pressure is from the heat of the epoxy curing (ideal gas law) or if the epoxy slightly expands when becoming a solid. Certainly, there would also be some compression if the tenon and epoxy seal in air as the seat is slid into place.

They make grip clamps to keep that from happening, really easy/cheap to make and cheap to buy, everyone should have at least one to improve your fit and finish results.

Les, it's not a cork grip.

My assumption was that the grip and seat were already set and dried, so no additional push-out was going to happen. The gap was fixed and permanent, right?

I'm still confident in my idea, but Rod Bond paste epoxy would be even better than Tight Bond III glue. Any excess 'paste' can be wiped flush with the adjoining parts whether cork or CF. Might need a little alcohol on a paper towel to wipe off the CF grip and seat. Fill the gap like drywall joint compound, but with a 'wet wipe' instead of a dry sanding.

Correct . Grip and seat permanently fixed. What remains is a little less than 1/16 in gap where it did not adjoin. I do have pro paste in hand I used for the initial install

My philosophy on these things is to always go with the lowest risk option. Since epoxy may easily be cleaned from surfaces with alcohol, applying epoxy should be very low risk. If you don't like its looks, wipe it off and work it out of the gap and you're open to trying something else. But I think that the idea Kendall will work just fine. Use pigment to match (or contrast if you prefer) the grips/seat.

I had a similar issue one time and I filled the gap (smaller than yours, I expect) with metallic thread for a narrow contrasting stripe.

As others have suggested, mix a little black pigment into your pro paste mix, and then apply the pigmented epoxy into the gap. Remove any excess epoxy with an alcohol wipe. The black pigment can be VooDoo dust, marbling pigment from Mud Hole, or even the pigment from enamel model paints such as Testors, which can be found in many hobby stores. For the model paint allow the pigment to settle out and then pour off the carrier. For all of these pigments, only a very small amount is needed, a couple of drops will do. None of these pigments will interfere with the epoxy curing. I’ve used them all with no problems. Should be an easy fix.
Norm