After building spinning rods for myself on various blanks using identical reels (Diawa Tatulas 2000 Series) and identical Guide Brand and Model (Fuji Alconites), I find that guide spacing for the first 4 guides starting from the reel to the choker guide is always the same because placement of the guides from the spool to the choker guide is based on the reel dimensions which for me is always the same. Is my understanding correct? If it is, then maybe a master builder who has the time and desire could share spacing for the specific brand and model guides out to the choker guide for specific reels? What are your thoughts? Is that a good idea or am I missing something?



Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 07/27/2023 05:57AM by Leonard Bourdage.

Yes, in my opinion, your understanding is correct assuming you use the same line and guide designs also. But the principal is correct as supported by the Fuji KR software. The blank used has nothing to do with reduction guide spacing. If you put in the same reel and line info you'll get the same size and spacing recommendations. Take a look at [anglersresource.net]

If one were to use a very flimsey, slow action blank, then possibly blank flex could affect the optimum spacing, but I think that's not likely with today's modern blanks and I don't know what I would change.

Most builders and Fuji believe that for stiffer lines larger guides are better than smaller ones. If you run the Fuji software and progressively increase line pound test you'll see the guide recommendations at some point change. For lighter lines the 16 butt guide will be recommended, then with heavier lines it will change to recommend the 20.

Yes, you are correct. The length of the rod is immaterial. It is the reel spool diameter and line type/size that dictate the position of the choke guide. For the same reel and line, that location would be the same regardless of rod length, power, etc.

However, depending on the use of the rod, you may wish to have more or less guides in that space between the reel and the choke guide. This is determined by the power of the rod and perhaps the action as well.

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I took a deep dive recently into the KR Concept - and what Michael and Tom have shared is what I found to be true also.

If you have a Reduction Train dialed in for a given reel, roll with it! Very short rods, or rods that bend deep into the butt section, may require some changes.

If you ever try another reel type or size (larger or smaller, shorter or taller), you might have to tweak your established Reduction Train spacing.

Lighter braid (up to #20) and mono/fluoro (up to #10) is where KR really shines, IMO.

I have been using Fuji BYLAG Alconite Guides with a 2000 Diawa Tatula.. Does anyone know of a spacing calculator or if the spacing will be the same as the KR guides? Thanks

The only other variables in-play for the first four guides, besides spool diameter, seems to be blank taper and reel seat mounting height. Blank taper can be noticeably different in the butt sections of rods. Tapers aren’t necessary at even rates (flat or straight) from butt to top. My Rainshadow Eternity 6’10” drop shot rod has less taper in this zone than does my St. Croix SCV70MF. This likely produced the slight position differences needed to perfectly meet the strait-edge. Taper can’t cause more than a minimal effect outside of maybe very extreme blanks, though. Any commercial reel seat should also have minimal effect. An extra fat Tennessee handle system might change required distances, though. In this system the line path is the hypotenuse leg of a triangle. I check the Fuji GPS/KR calculator results on a straight edge (for KR guides) and usually nudge one or two (not the choke) less than 1/4 inch to get the proper layout. It’s a quick process using a table edge. The slight nudges keep that line path straight. If you raise the reel mounting point quite a bit above the blank, it reasons that the calculated hypotenuse would no longer match well.

Fuji has done what Leonard is asking for with their guides in their free GPS/KR, online software. For brands with slightly different guide heights, a person could start there and use Fuji’s strait-edge method for tuning out height differences between brands. If the choke is set and the inside top of the rings line up straight, everything should be good. The height of the spool shaft and spool width sets the opposite leg of the triangle. The distance between the spool lip and choker sets the adjacent triangle leg. It’s simply getting the guides to line up by height to set the hypotenuse. This could be thrown off if guide heights vary a lot from Fuji’s.

By no means, am I the expert in the room, but if you’re using all the same components and the same reels, but different blanks, the taper of the blank would possibly change the spacing of the guides.

I don’t have experience with the Y guides I’ve only use K’s, but he may be able to mimic the heights of the KR concepts by using the Fuji guide chart?

[anglersresource.net]

One should consider the line diameter and type, as well.

It is a significant factor,; for a given reel, different line diameters and types affect optimal guide placement.