Last weekend was working on a split grip casting rod using some CFX carbon fiber grips. The butt of the blank was pretty good size so when reaming ended up getting into the carbon "skin". However, the inner foam reamed much easier and, before I knew it, when fitting grip I ended up scratching the blank because the carbon skin wasn't as big as the foam inner core. My primary question is what is the tool of choice to cut/trim the carbon skin in this scenario and make a clean cut? The reamer didn't do a great job. Not sure about other tools to cleanly cut the fiber skin?

Kevin,

I have read on the board that several builders use a chop or miter saw and a fine-toothed blade (finish blade).

I use a Zona Universal Razor Saw, 42 tpi. This is a hand tool, not powered. (I used this tool before I learned about the above power saw technique. It is a super handy tool to have in any case.)

If possible, I have also squared up an end on the lathe using a fine tooth file or parting tool.

Wear a mask and be careful with carbon fiber dust!

Sorry - I might not have been clear but was wondering about best tools to cleanly increase the hole size on the ends of the carbon fiber grips? No problem reaming the inner foam but reamers were not doing a great job on the ends of the grips. I ended up using a rounded file but gotta believe there are better tools/methods for that particular job. Learned a lesson about how tough the carbon fiber material is when fitting up these grips and scratching my blank in the process.

Les - great tip/reminder about the carbon dust and making sure to wear a mask. Safety first...

Dremel tool with a cone shaped grinding stone bevels the fiber edge nicely

Kevin, I know exactly what you mean. I had basically the same problem when I used a split grip CFX grip for the first time. I didn't scratch the blank, but I didn't like the fit because of the foam reaming so much easier.

What I did was to use a drill bit larger than the size of the finished hole I wanted, so it acted like a counter sink. I turned the drill bit by hand, and went just enough so the hole measured slightly larger than the blank measured where the grip would end. I went about .015" bigger. If I remember correctly the skin on a CFX grip is about .030" thick. It wasn't that hard to do, and I was more than happy with how clean bit cut the hole.

I use rubber winding checks when doing split grips, but the hole was clean enough that if I had just used a wrap butted up against the grip it would have looked quite nice

I didn't ream the grip until I had the holes in the skin opened up

Kevin, I often use a drill bit less than the diameter of the desired hole with a strip of sandpaper (220 - 320 grit would be good for your application) taped and wrapped around the bit 2 - 3 rotations to produce a “flap wheel” of sorts. You can also slightly spiral wrap the strip of sandpaper leaving ~.125in steps. Both methods leave a very crisp, clean hole.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I've also used the dremel in this situation and seems to work well for me.

Chamfering bit to relieve the CF ring at the end of the bore before reaming.