I'm in the process of building my first fly rod. It's a NFC 9', 2 piece 5wt. I've already built the handle and established the straightest axis for each piece. I have two suggestions for guide sizing; both have 11 guides + tip. The strippers are a 12 and a 10 on both suggestions, but after that it differs. One recipe is 12, 10, (both double foot), then 5, 4, two 3's, and four 2's. The other is 12,10, (both double foot), 4, 3, three 2's, and four 1's. Is the diameter of the snake guides going to make a significant difference in the casting ability and fighting performance of the rod? Thanks!

Dave Sytsma

You don't need all those different sizes. 3 sizes is plenty. So for the stripping guide use the 12, then follow with an 8 and then move on and out with either all 2's or 1's, whichever will easily pass your line and leader connection. I suspect you can get by with #1's, but if you're not sure use the 2's.

Using a bunch of different sizes with the idea that you create a more gradual line path reduction, doesn't. It just adds unnecessary weight. You'll get a straighter line path and at less weight if you cut out all the unnecessary sizes in the middle.

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12-8-1’s is what I have been using on 5/6 lately .

If using fuji style stripper, I like 12-6-1’s.

Just finished a 5wt Gamma Beta with 12-8-6 cerecoils to the tip. Casts nice but we will see on durability

Like Tom K said, three changes in guide size, I regularly use 1/0 snakes (Snake Brand Universals) on 5wts as the final size and I have never had a problem passing line connections nor have I had a customer compliant on that.
Object is to create the straightest line path with the least amount of changes in size and smallest size of guides possible to keep excess weight off blank. Over sizing guides does nothing for casting quality or performance.

I appreciate everyone's advice. My strippers are Alps LXN Titanium and the rest are Snake Brand Universals with Ecoating, standard wire. I have more than enough either 1's or 2's, but not 1/0's, so I think I'll use the 1's. If anyone wants to weigh in with additional advice, you are more than welcome. My fly rod experience is limited to an old 9' bamboo or a 7 1/2' Shakespeare Presidential glass I used 55 years ago for bluegills, so this is sort of a step up.

Dave

Tom got that right, minimize the sizes ( to keep weight down).
I don't use #1's because they seem to catch joints in fly fines, especially if you are using loop to loop connection with Skagit or Scandi heads.
I save my #1's for bamboo or really lightweight rods 2 & 3 wts.

Good luck with that build.

Larry

Above advice is sound.

My motto, go small in running guides and get their fast. Some guy named Tom Morgan espoused the small running guide viewpoint.

I just built an NFC LMX FAF 905-4. I used single foot running guides. 1's are fine for a 5wt running snake guides, some would say 1/0. I'd not bother with that. Certainly no need for 2's.

On my 5 wt I just did a size 10 double foot stripper (12 or 10 is fine) and went directly to a size 5 single foot guide followed by size 1's. Works just fine. I have fished the rod and have zero issues related to line to leader loops or knots passing through the guides. On a 5 wt I do not believe you need a second, stripper-like guide (technically only the first guide is the stripper guide). On a 5 wt just go from one stripper right to your snake style running guides with only one, or at most two, transition/taper sizes. It saves weight and money and there is no loss in performance. So 12/10-5-3-all 1's; or 12/10-4-all 1s.

In my opinion most people on their fly rods use guides that are unnecessarily large.