I have the CRB Rod Drier. I use it for applying and then drying of thread epoxy. A rod I need to finish has a fighting butt already attached, and the size of the butt is too wide for the rubber hole on the CRB dryer. I don't want to cut the hole larger, so does anyone have an idea on jerrry-rigging a n adapter to hold the rod butt?

[mudhole.com]

That might fit your model, phone call to Mudhole would confirm.

I have 3 jaw chuck dryers, I made the mistake of putting a build with a fighting butt in one, left jaw marks on the butt, they sanded out and it was my rod, but after that, a fighting butt is the last thing I install on a rod. Leaving that section of blank exposed allows for good contact with the dryer jaws.

I have the same dryer(s). Use two rubber bands (I like #64 size) and form an X pattern over the rubber chuck. Easy, effective and cheap.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2023 08:14PM by Daryl Ferguson.

A couple of thoughts.
If you have a rear grip, or butt cap that may be marked with chuck jaws, there is a very simple solution to the issue.

Before putting the grip or butt cap in the dryer, simply take one, two or three #64 rubber bands and wrap it/them around the butt or butt cap of the rod. Then, when you put the rod in the chuck you are simply tightening the jaws on the rubber bands and not the actual grip. Due to the nature of the rubber bands, you also do not need to have a very tight grip with the chuck jaws to insure a non slip operation.

Or, you can simply take a roll of masking tape and put about about 4 layers of masking tape over the butt cap or butt of the rod. However, to avoid having grip damage caused by the tape, either put the first couple of layers on backwards, to avoid having any sticky tape, pull parts of the grip out when the tape is removed.

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Note, If you use the method listed by Daryl, you may want to remove the rubber end of the chuck so that you are simply left with a dish shaped chuck to insert the rod butt. Then, use the multiple rubber bands to hold the rod secure.
Or, you can take a couple piece of one or more different sizes of rubber hose so that one of the hoses fit nicely into the chuck cup, and if necessary another hose inside the first one, to hold the rod secure.



I nice way to go with this style dryer, is to use a flex coat chuck, and then purchase multiple chuck faces that may be exchanged to accommodate different sizes of grips.

Best wishes

Roger, I have two of the same dryers as the OP. The issue is the butt cap won’t fit in the hole in the rubber part of the dryer. On new builds, the butt cap is the last thing I do to complete the rod. Problem solved. Repairs on old rods are a different matter, however.I’ve used the X pattern with a couple of #64 rubber bands a few times now with no issues. Easy and no mods to the dryer are necessary.

You could also pick up a different chuck, such as this one to take care of your issue:

[mudhole.com]

Yeah, I’ve seen that before. Rubber bands are cheap and effective. :)

I recently ran into this same issue. A wad of masking tape did the trick for me.

I cut an X in mine… the rubber bands are a great idea!

[mudhole.com] Good idea Bill. Lol



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/31/2023 08:49PM by Lynn Behler.

Thanks for the tips. I wound up having a wide rubber gasket that fit snugly around the fighting butt and I slid 4 flexible pieces of clear plastic under the gasket and bent them together and pushed them in to the hole of the dryer. it worked, but I like the rubber band method for next time.

David, you'll LOVE the simplicity of the rubber band method. I looked at the wire adapter at mudhole, but the rubber bands are just as easy and effective, and I can buy a BUNCH of rubber bands, and I think a pack of 100 was like $5.00.