What's the best adhesive or glue for building handles using cork rings?

Most use epoxy adhesive, as I do , and it always works just fine. Some advocate Titebond III, and it also is reported to work just fine. I spin the rings on the mandrel relative to each other to assure adhesive contact everywhere.

It is important to not squeeze the rings together excessively, which might squeeze out adhesive. Snug, full contact, a little tight, but if you're deforming the cork rings you probably are getting too aggressive.

Scott
IMO - West System's GFlex650 - for ALL structural components.
Herb



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/24/2023 10:35PM by Herb Ladenheim.

I use Titebond III for gluing ring to ring, then 2 part epoxy for bonding to blank.

I glue my rings up on 1/4 threaded rod, wing nuts and washers to snug them up, Mike is correct, just snug enough so you don't deform the rings. After the glue is cured, I put the rough grip on a 1/4 tool steel mandrel and shape it. Ream to fit blank.

Titebond 2 or 3 is a really good wood glue, I know some builders that use the #2, but most will say they use #3. I've never had issues. Now if you are going to put rubberized cork on the ends or decorative grips, use 2 Part Epoxy to bond the rubberized material to the cork.

I use;

Contact cement for the cork rings.

2 part epoxy for cork to blank.

Both work, Titebond 3 is waterproof and is also water cleanup.

I use 15 or 30 minute clear epoxy with the Bill Hickey washer, wingnut technique. Whatever glue you use you want it to be thin, waterproof and dry or set clear. I have tried paste epoxy and you can see epoxy between the rings. You may want that, but I prefer not. I also put them on a mandril and turn them on a lathe.

With paste epoxy I butter it on than scrape it off, both sides, so far after many years no failures, no lines.

I’ve been reading quite a bit about cork rings and I’m very excited to give this a try myself. I’m very good at shaping by hand. One experiment I’ve pondered doing is using a caulk gun to press the rings together. Thoughts?

I've only built 3 cork grips thus far, and used Titebond lll for all 3 oft hem. 50% of one of them is rubberized cork rings, with a rubberized cork butt cap. I also have rubberized cork in a set of split grips that I made, with the butt cap of the fighting butt being rubberized cork.

So far, absolutely zero problems with using Titebond 3 on rubberized cork rings.

As far as using a caulk gun to press the rings together goes. Stop pondering, and can go to your local Home Depot, or Lowe's, or wherever the heck you would go to get this kind of stuff, and for $5.74 plus tax, (Home Depot prices) pick up a 36" piece of 1/4" threaded rod, a 4 pack of 1/4" wing nuts, and a 12 pack of 1/4" flat washers.

If your experiment doesn't work you'll have not only wasted your time, you'll have cost yourself more in cork rings than the price of the stuff needed to do at least an adequate job

I use David's method too, and it works well. I drill my rings to 5/16 to minimize reaming and use 5/16 threaded rod.

I would be concerned that the caulk gun would not apply even pressure. The threaded rod with washers applies pressure evenly and is infinitely adjustable for pressure. If you are careful in applying the epoxy/titebond you can easily remove the glued ring set from the threaded rod without having to use any messy wax.

Michael, I actually went overboard when buying stuff to build my own cork grips. At least for someone that was buying the stuff to build their first cork grips,

I do mine on a 3/8" mandrel. Of course I could have just used one of the drills I have to bore out the center holes to 3/8", but I didn't. lol I got an inexpensive drill press and made a self centering cork ring jig to bore out the center holes to 3/8". I made the investment of a whole $9 and made a cork ring clamp using 1/4" threaded rods and a couple of 1"x2"s to clamp the rings together once I have them on the mandrel. I measure between the 1x2s to make sure they are the same distance so that they are applying even pressure. Eliminating the concern of uneven pressure you brought up concerning the caulk gun.

I bought a cork saw, which is pretty much is a must if you are using any of the cork slicking jigs I have seen available. I bought a dozen extra blades for the saw. Two cork slicing jigs, One for simple 1/8" thick slices, as well as one for cutting rings into different size wedges. And of course, a whole lot of different types of cork rings. lol Oh and I can 't forget that "messy wax" to wax the mandrel with before sliding the cork rings on. And the wax really isn't messy at all. lol

I can understand not putting the kind of investment I did into building a grip, and you certainly don't need everything I just listed to build a cork grip. But a simple to build inexpensive cork clamping jig should be something anyone considering building a cork grip, should invest in.


Oh, and I got almost everything I listed above from a board sponsor. Custom Fly Grips LLC. Awesome place to deal with !!!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2023 11:00AM by David Baylor.

Daryl Ferguson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I’ve been reading quite a bit about cork rings
> and I’m very excited to give this a try myself.
> I’m very good at shaping by hand. One experiment
> I’ve pondered doing is using a caulk gun to
> press the rings together. Thoughts?

Get a quick grip clamp and drill holes in it so a mandrel can pass through each side. Ya want everything centered off the holes in the cork and I don't see a caulk gun working for that.

I believe I first saw this clamp mod here in the photo section years ago



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2023 11:56AM by Matt Ruggie.

You read my mind Matt! That was my second thought after dismissing the caulk gun thought. The caulk gun would work with a minor mod, but the quick grip clamp is easier. The quick grip is two drilled holes from working perfect!

Yeah it works great and super quick. Ya can even use these for some handle/reel seat assemblies on the blank since the one side detaches from the clamp. As long as ya have a clamp with a deep enough throat that is.

Yup, and I already have at least 5 or 6 of the quick grips in my tool cabinet.

Saw these and thought about modifying for cork but said why bother cause the quick grip clamps work great. No need to reinvent the wheel.

Edit to add:
OP,
I'm in the titebond III group. Never had a problem and cleans up easy



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/25/2023 03:18PM by Matt Ruggie.