Sorry, Don’t have anything on the P703 or P704.
Norm

ed
guides train sizes are good. i like that 20,10,5.5 guide train. how far out did ya set the stripper. did ya check for any line slap between the reel and the stripper. the first spinning rod i built i put stripper out too far and was getting some line slap which cut casting distance. ended up redoing the guides on it.

I have SJ732 and SJ703 (both xray - not sure if they make them in other graphites). The 732 has a lighter, faster tip. I like throwing light jigs with it with live bait (more for walleyes) because of that tip. It really excels as a dropshot rod with a decent backbone. The 703 is a more traditional medium-light fast action and a little more versatile.

Thanks John that was going to be my guess

John Nesse Wrote:
The 703 is a more
> traditional medium-light fast action and a little
> more versatile.

thats a good discription of that blank IMO. thanks for the comparison.

Ed, if you like to fish 4# (maybe 6#) test for bass then I think you will like the FW 702-2 (IM). It is listed as a remastered Loomis TSR 862-2 GLX. Read the reviews on that rod. I wouldn't pick it for waters with a lot of timber or vegetation. But for clear waters with rock bottoms I think you will like it. The Loomis got used by some for bonefish in my area.

For guides I'd go 16, 8, 5.5, and then 4's. I'd pair it with a light reel like a Vanford 2000.

I'm looking forward to building mine and I mostly fish salt water. My fresh water lakes/canals have a lot of weeds and exotic panfish/bass that really put up a fight.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

For casting distance, which it seems you're looking for. Maybe a longer rod like a 7'6"-8' would be helpful? Just a thought, sounds like the FW702 might work, sounds like more rod than the MHX spinning series. Great information.

with an IP at 213g that puts the FW702 in the trout/panfish category IMO. Similar to ST CROIX LF. I fish the 66LF croixs and mhx S782 for the same stuff. They would work well with those light rebel craws and spinners but bigger smallies are gonna give ya a run for your money especially in current..throwing jigheads plus plastic, id want more power.

I'm going to listen to you guys on this one and stick with the SB 722 for a few months to get a good feel for it. Maybe once I get use to these modern actions I will prefer them. I think you guys are correct in that I will need some backbone for fish in moving water. I have done OK with ML cheap rods so far but they also stock trout in one of the rivers and I did get some nice ones, including a fat 23" rainbow, while bass fishing this year. Fortunately that rainbow came on a big Clouser minnow with an 8 wt fly rod so no problem hauling it in.
I am going to load my new spinning reel with 10 # braid and hopefully that will help with casting, etc.

Matt - the stripper guide is 20" from the front of the reel face. No line slap that I can tell.

BTW back to the OP topic - my favorite bass rod is a 9' 7 wt I put together on an old Winston B2X fly rod blank that was on closeout - works for GL steelhead too.

Thanks folks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/28/2022 07:43PM by Ed Rose.

10# braid will probably solve any casting issues you had. I'd recommend spiderwire ultracast X8. Whatever you get, pay attention to the actual line diameter (not the "mono equivalent"). For casting distance you'll almost always want to go with the thinner line. It's surprising how much variation there can be in equivalent pound tests across types of braid.

You could even try #8 832 or so in open areas. It really makes a difference with lighter lures. The wind resistance kills the light stuff and any additional drag reduction helps. #8 832 is still over 16lbs breaking strength

832 is great line, but it's one I had in mind when I mentioned diameter. 8# Sufix 832 is .18mm in diameter. 8# Ultracast is half as thick at .0889mm. I'd guess the actual break strength is higher on the 832 than is it on the ultracast, but if something closer to 8# actual break strength (with possibly less abrasion resistance) is enough you'll probably get more casting distance with the thinner line.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/29/2022 02:29PM by John Nesse.

John Nesse Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I am a fan of the NFC P703-1 and P704-1 blanks for
> smallies. I'd call the P-703 is a medium-light
> moderate-fast action with good power. The 704 has
> more power - I'd call it a medium moderate-fast
> again with excellent power. I tend to reach for
> the 703 when I'm on the Mississippi and the 704
> when I'm on Mille Lacs - the 703 will easily
> handle a 20" smallie, but it's in the wheelhouse
> of the 704. I love them both for ned rigs. I
> also like the 704 for casting shad rap style
> crankbaits (e.g. jointed shad raps in shallow
> rocks). Both throw jigs really well. The 704 in
> particular is one of the more versatile rods I
> own.


>
> These blanks have a somewhat more moderate action
> as you'd expect of something apparently designed
> for saltwater. That translates to a rod that
> casts light baits really well, especially shad
> raps are other light cranks that have a tendency
> to tumble when casted with a faster action rod.
> The slower action makes them incredible for
> fighting fish, too. But both blanks have a lot of
> power in spite of weighing next to nothing in the
> HM graphite. This is perhaps the most surprising
> thing about them. I've fished Loomis Greenwater
> rods and similar inshore saltwater blanks in
> similar actions. They always feel a little heavy.
> The 703 and 704 feel almost too light until you
> load them up. Put a soft touch VSS16 grip with a
> SKSS/ASH-16 rear locking graphite nut and a set of
> KR Concept guides with the KL-H reduction guides
> on either of these blanks and you won't regret it.

John - What types/sizes of lures do you use on the p 703 and what guide sizes/models work well for you? sorry to ask for such detail but I am very new at spinning rod build and this would be helpful in narrowing down the myriad choices.
Thank you

Just because it hasn't been mentioned as a technique yet: The float n fly; both with a fixed float and a slip float.
I built a two-piece Loomis fly rod blank into a spinning rod (stradic 2000 reel) I used to rarely attach the decal to my blanks back in the 80's so I don't know the specs for sure.. I think that rod was a 9', 6 weight IMX.
Caught suspending smallies at Dale Holllow Lake, Tenn./Kentucky, with 1/16 oz. craft hair jigs in December thru February. Slow, subtle bites and #4 line. This kind of fishing is regarded as a true art form by the old timers!

***

Just a side note (a bit off topic):

My buddy and I fish smallies in east central Kansas. On our last trip, he caught and landed a 24 pound, 37-inch blue cat on an OG4 crankbait. Took him a minute to get in the boat. The SJ703 was the rod. I don't recommend this rod for such large fish, but when the water is relatively open and no current, landing large fish is not that hard on light gear. Just don't get in a hurry.

I know many of you have similar stories. Not trying to hijack the thread. It all made me think of what people think of as heavy vs. light for a rig.

leslie
always fun! had a 25lb +/- carp Saturday while smallie fishing. was a good battle, had to play it out for awhile. Fun stuff on my 69MLXF croix

Pulled a 28" flat head out of a 30' hole with a MHXs721... had a couple beers trying to get that thing to the boat. I love catching fish on light gear/line too!