I have really taken some leaps and bounds when it comes to my wraps as of late. I've learned to hide the tag ends quite well and it really shows how well after the first coat of epoxy goes on and there are few, if any nubs to be cut off. I'm now trying to master the trim wraps. I've read all of the ways to do it and the main way seems to be to just incorporate it into the main wrap and let the main wrap hide the trim band tag ends. I've searched for the argument I'm about to give but I've found no answer. I did find that using the main wrap to hide the trim tag ends is such an easy way. I did it on the last couple of wraps on a recent build and it looked spectacular! Until I applied the first coat of epoxy. I like to use nylon thread without CP and I have a found a color I can use and it looks great on any color blank I've used, and it avoids using CP. It's translucent, it's what I want. But you can clearly see the tag ends of the metallic (trim wrap) thread that are tucked under the main wraps. I had to quickly abort the process! Well, I first let out some choice words and kicked myself for not anticipating this, and clean off the epoxy while the blank was spinning and then pick at the thread wraps until I got them off, and then clean up the blank. All the while the blank was spinning because the other 8 wraps I had done the trim wraps (nail knot) differently and I had applied epoxy on them first. I did it and it was OK. Not easy. So, I'm back to square one. I'm just using the nail knot way. It works but I just can't seem to trim it close enough and those nubs will not go away. I don't mind doing it this way, its not hard after you do a bunch of them, just can't get rid of the nubs. Even after I trim them off, I can still see that there was a nub there. I may be the only one who can see it, but it doesn't make me feel any better about it. I know my peers would see it so that drives me to do better. I am set on using this nylon thread and I don't like the NCP stuff at all, and using CP completely changes the shade/look I'm after. I don't think there is an easy answer but maybe there is and I just don't know from lack of experience.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2022 01:20PM by Fred Zimmermann.

Kind of hard to explain but here goes.

On the tag that is away from the main wrap I hold my razor perpendicular to the rod and snug against the trim. I then pull tag up while holding the razor edge against the trim and make sure it is not touching the blank but is as close as possible. It cuts it flush with the trim band.

On the side touching the main wrap I cut the tag end the same as I would a main wrap because the tag is pinched between the trim and main wrap.

I then gently pack my trim band again to ensure where the tags come through seats flush to the main wrap.

The biggest key is making sure there is no crossing and to make it as flat as possible.

A.P.

Fred,
When folks normally look at a rod, they look at the top side of the rod.

So, when I do metallic trim wraps I pull the ends of the trim wraps under the main wraps on the underside of the rod.

Sure, the trim ends might be slightly visible if one turns the rod upside down and looks carefully, but that is on the viewer rather than you.

Also, if you pull the end of the wraps so that after a few turns under the main wrap you pull the tag end so that it is parallel to the wraps and you will be good to go.


Take care

Aaron, I think that is the direction I'm heading in and I appreciate your advice, I do understand what you are trying to convey, and your explanation is good.
Roger, I make all my tag ends on the back side of my wraps already. I may just put my trim tag ends under the main wraps when i do use CP and stick to the nail knot when I am not using CP. I know it's more of technique more than anything. Having better eye site would also help! I'll just break out those 10x jewelers glasses when I trim the tags! Thank you, Roger. I value your opinion on this forum.

Fred,
Buying an affordable jewelers magnifying headset with a light helps me tremendously. I have good eyesight and still use it when wrapping and finishing. I found a pair for around $20 that has a light and four different lenses.

From the time that I built my first fishing rod some many years ago, I have always used a magnifying head band.

I also use very, very, very bright task lighting with the light source about 6 inches from the rod being wrapped.

Good magnification and very very bright detail lighting really eases the building and wrapping of fishing rods.

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With the use of high intensity of battery powered led lighted head band - I seldom use a trouble light any more when working in the garage.

That also goes for using the lathe in the garage where I do my dirty work - with respect to rod building. i.e. grinding, sanding and cutting - are all done in the garage - where there is no effect on the home and the attitude of my wife with respect to smells and dust in the house that would other wise occur if I did this work in the house.

I just use a simple basic magnifying head band with replaceable lenses of different power. Normally, I use a 2x or 3x power.
[www.amazon.com]

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I use this head band when working in the shop with the lathe, or when working on the car or other machines. I keep a half dozen batteries as well as a battery charger to insure that I do not run out of battery power for the time that I spend at a time while working.

[www.amazon.com]

I use the 18650 rechargeable batteries for use in the illuminated head band, along with an appropriate charger.
[www.amazon.com]

Thanks to all of you for your help. I am in the process of putting in some very bright directional lighting and I will also use magnifiers to aid myself. My shop is always changing into something better than it was!