Hi all,

what are your favorite epoxies to assemble handle components and glue them to rod blanks, and why? I understand there is no perfect epoxy product..

Rod Bond, because it works and it is made for the process.

I use Hysol (Loctite) 0151, two part epoxy.it has a 50 minute set time and allows me time to make adjustments without being rushed.

When I am in a hurry I use Hysol (Loctite) 608 allows 5 minute work life.

Have fun

I also use Rod Bond. It is very strong, flexible and gap filling. In addition, it has a long working time, which allows you plenty of time for assembly and alignment.
Norm

Richard,
When one gets right-down-to-it, They all work, just slight variations on the same theme and it becomes a personal choice for which suits the individual builder. That being said, consider using an epoxy which was designed and formulated for rod building (as in flexible). I started using ProPaste, and it worked fine, but switched to Rod Bond; if Ralph O'quinn formulated it = it's GOT to be GOOD!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

We like Flex Coat Quick Cure liquid to assemble reel seat parts,
then U-40 paste (or other good paste) to connect to rod blank.
Sometimes a quick cure in paste form.
Liquid seems to be better for tight fitting parts, paste for any gaps, like cork to blank.
Watch out for those, especially pastes, that are "rigid", and not designed for the flexing of a fishing rod.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

I agree with Mark and Ron. Use the stuff that is designed for the job you are trying to do. All the epoxies that are designed for rod building will work, just pick the one that you think best fits what you are trying to accomplish. Eschew the hardware store stuff.

I use a paste, 5 or 10 minute paste, I don't even remember which. But the fact is that with the quick cure epoxies you have plenty of time to do adjustments after you slide the parts together. And they stay soft enough for you to clean up with alcohol so that you will get a pristine looking build. Quick doesn't mean instant.

The Trondak Quick Bond, the fast set version of Rod Bond, still allows a good 30-minute or better window before it starts to get "stiff."

I have also use the Flex Coat liquid rod builder's epoxy and even System 3 T-88 liquid epoxy. All good products.

.............

I like FlexCoats Rod Builders Epoxy for those times when I do the complete handle assembly on the blank.
Seems like it has a working time of about 15-20 minutes.
When I don't need a lot of time I will use ProPaste.

I also use only Rod Bond and most always in the fast set. It is easy to use and the fast set lets me move down the rod rather quickly. If I need more time I'll use the regular.

Toms Custom Rods

Virtually all of the epoxies will work for building rods.

I, personally have never used a paste epoxy for any part of rod building. I have just never found the need.

For the bulk of grip work - especially if I am building a cork grip made of individual rings and then turning the grip on the rod - I will use 60 minute cure epoxy. This slow cure time allows me to put on the 20-40 individual parts of a grip, including arbors, reel seats, rear and front grip cork rings.

I used to turn grips on the blank and for a while that was fine. But, after adding a wood lathe to my tool collection, I no longer ever turn a grip on a rod. Rather, I always glue up the individual components and then, slip the components on a mandrel or threaded rod and turn the grip on the lathe. For this sort of work - assuming that it is cork or a wood product, I will not use Epoxy of any sort. Rather, I will use Titebond III. The titebond III is very inexpensive - compared to any epoxy. Titebond III has a 12 hour cure to allow plenty of adjustment time. The hardness level of cured Titebond III is much closer to the harness and texture of the cork or wood being used on the grip. As a result, there is really no issue with having a ridge or a divot on the grip due to a glue that is too hard. Note: of course, once a cork and or wood grip has been turned and was built using titebond III; I will use epoxy to affix it to the grip. For this sort of grip, where I am just assembling two or three parts for the rod grip and rod ( i.e. rear grip, reel seat, that already has the arbor glued in to it, and the fore grip if used -- ) the few parts make the use of simple 5 minute epoxy of any brand a good choice.

Note:
Studies have shown that epoxies that have a longer cure time tend to be a bit more flexible - compared to epoxies that have a much shorter cure time. - That may or may not be true - but I have never found flexibility of a glue joint to ever be a problem whether I have used 5 minute, or 75 minute cure for epoxy. They all glue up just fine and if the alignment can be obtained with 5 minute epoxy and you like to use it - go for it. But, I personally like to go with a minimum of 30 minute epoxy because that will give me 15 minutes of working time, and then the ability to use alcohol to clean off any excess epoxy before the glue kicks and makes it difficult to clean up the excess glue - if there is any. In contrast - 5 minute epoxy gives one about 2 1/2 minutes of working time before it begins to kick and hard cure. This leave very little clean up time if it is necessary for you to do - if your building techniques require a glue clean up.

Simply put, over the years, I have used many many different brands of commercial, hard ware store, variety, car parts store variety, big box build variety, and dedicated rod building epoxy with equal success and have really not found any one type or brand to be different - as long as you compare different brands of epoxy that have equal cure time. For me - they all work equally well.

As I said at the beginning of the post - I have never purchased a container of paste type epoxy and have never found a need to ever use paste type epoxy for my building style.

However, some folks may very well find a paste type epoxy to work very well with their building needs and style., If so, don't change what you are doing.

As the saying has said many many times in the past. There are a million different types of wheels and or that may be translated to products - that make the world go round.

Be safe

Tight fitting parts with equal gaps such as skelton seats and their inserts I use a five minute epoxy. Not picky on the brand. Usually use gorilla glue. One of the rod epoxy makers need to step up their game on five minute. I typically need just a small amount. All the hardware store brands come in the dual syringe setup. Push one plunger for what you need and your done. Nice if a rod building five minute came as such.

For grips I use rod bond. I like to ream a bit oversize. Just a couple very narrow tape bushings at each end to ensure lineup. Rodbond will fill the gap between the grip and blank perfectly. I always save each batch of excess mixed epoxy to check if it set before messing with the rod. Never once have I ever gotten any kind of questionable cure from rod bond. Quick eyeball of the mix don't worry about mix temp or cure temp it always works.

Mostly Rod Bond or Quik Bond for me. I have no time constraints.

I just tried Flexcoats "H*ll or High Water" and it seems to be holding up great on my last build - a PB701LXF spinning rod.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/15/2022 05:35PM by Ron Beloff.

I just tried Flexcoats "H-- or High Water" and it seems to be holding up great on my last build - a PB701LXF spinning rod.