A friend of mine gave me a project to do He broke his favorite rod at the front grip above the reel seat. I have to try to join the pieces by inserting a piece of scrap rod and epoxying the two ends together. If successful my concern will be the durability of the finished project.Any feedback would be appreciated

Make a plug from a scrap rod blank that closely matches the taper and if you can remove the butt cap then slide the plug up the grip end and it will become a male ferrule plug at the fore grip.. Glue the plug in place and then glue the blank on the plug.

You are good to go. You have made a non-removable ferrule connection at the fore grip.

Good luck

That is a bad area to repair but it can be done. Hopefully it was a clean break, you can't sleeve an area with splintered graphite, You will have to come up from the back end of the rod with your inner sleeve . IT HAS TO BE FIBERGLASS or it will fail again, I would push an old fiberglass rod that closely matches the inner diameter up though the blank until you see it at least 3 inches above the break when it tightens up to match the inner diameter mark the sleeve at the end of the break. Then pull it back out and cut an equal length behind the mark.

You didn't say how far above the cork but if there is room I would definitely make an outer wrap the same size as the inner one. Coat the inside of the rod with Rod Bond or equivalent, insert the sleeve. At the same time have your outer sleeve on the upper part and slide the two parts together and align the rod.

Once fully cured wrap the entire outer area over the sleeves with thread ( I would use B) your call, you didn't mention the power of the broken rod. Then epoxy it like you would on a guide.

I buy lots of really cheap fiberglass rods at flea markets just for the purpose of cutting them up to make inner and outer sleeves. Hope it goes well for you.

Tom



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2021 07:39PM by Tom Wewerka.

You may find something of value here: [www.rodbuilding.org]

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Tom Kirkman Wrote:
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> You may find something of value here:
> [www.rodbuilding.org].
> html
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> ............

Definitely good information.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/24/2021 07:43PM by Tom Wewerka.

If you use a piece of solid fiberglass scrap extending thru the handle, you wont have any problems.

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

I do the plug as suggested above. But contrary to the suggestion that makes no mention of an outer thread wrap, and the suggestion that suggests a 100% thread wrap, I do a 1/2 inch wide thread wrap at the joint area of the splice. The only thing that you need to thread wrap for is to prevent the ends of either side of the splice from splintering out from a large force. The thread wraps and thread coating will solve that issue.

Best wishes

I do the plug as suggested above. But contrary to the suggestion that makes no mention of an outer thread wrap, and the suggestion that suggests a 100% thread wrap, I do a 1/2 inch wide thread wrap at the joint area of the splice. The only thing that you need to thread wrap for is to prevent the ends of either side of the splice from splintering out from a large force. The thread wraps and thread coating will solve that issue.

Best wishes

I'm curious as to why it has to be a section of fiberglass rod blank to use for the repair, or it will fail? It it because the break was ahead of the reel seat? I ask because I repaired a rod for a friend that had a break just behind the front grip of a split rear grip. I used a section of a NFC X ray blank that was broken during shipping, for the insert. It's been in heavy use for a year now, and as far as I know, is showing no signs of failing.

If the section of male ferrule you choose isn't exactly the diameter of the inner diameter of the rod being repaired, it will rattle inside the rod. Add tape longitudinally to the ferrule incrementally to ensure a tight fit. I like to cut the ferrule at least 6" longer than the broken splice.

Hello David.

From the article Tom alluded too from Ralph O'Quinn.

"Our goal is to maintain the 'properties of the rod'; this doesn't mean that we have to use the same materiel as is in the rod. When we made a graphite sleeve, we increased the OD of the rod at the repair point. This increased the "I" moment - stiffness, at that point, and the area on both sides of the sleeve are subjected to a bending force far beyond their capability. So if a graphite sleeve won't work on graphite, what do we use? The answer is simple. Keep in mind that whenever we use a sleeve, we are increasing the OD of the rod at that point. If we use a materiel of the same modulus, we are increasing the stiffness to an unacceptable level and inducing a break adjacent to the sleeve area. The answer is to use a materiel of LOWER MODULUS so as not to increase stiffness, and that materiel just happens to be our fiberglass rods. When repairing any graphite section with an external sleeve, always use a lower modulus materiel. Modulus is defined as STRESS divided by STRAIN. Think of it as relative stiffness. Now let's do our splicing correctly."

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.