SPONSORS
2025 ICRBE |
Decal rise solutions
Posted by:
Edward McGregor
(161.69.123.---)
Date: January 29, 2021 03:56PM
Hi all -
First time poster ...longtime creep. I have a build that i'm trying to get going but am hesitant about the decal because of the rise. The decal is a must in this build. The rod is a graphite blank with a painted finish, i'm wondering if someone might entertain my idea to reduce any major bulkiness around the decal (1/128th of an inch thick - it's almost like cardstock) First thought: - Mark boundaries of decal placement on blank with tape - Rub down painted finish to bare graphite with acetone - Light paint coat (spray paint to hide decal negative space on blank) - Thin 1/3 DNA 2/3 resin hardener epoxy base coat - Decal placement - Edge wrapped - CP coat - Thin 1/3 DNA 2/3 resin hardener epoxy base coat Does this make any sense? Or should I just bite the rise... Thanks! Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/29/2021 04:03PM by Edward McGregor. Re: Decal rise solutions
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: January 29, 2021 04:04PM
No idea why you'd thin the epoxy.
Try this - apply the decal and then make a tight thread wrap over it, end to end. Let that reside for maybe a day or two. Remove the thread, apply a coat of CP, let dry and finish as normal. It may require two coats. ............ Re: Decal rise solutions
Posted by:
Lance Schreckenbach
(---.hfc.comcastbusiness.net)
Date: January 29, 2021 04:20PM
Tom is correct. You may also may want to put a level coat of epoxy down first, let it cure and then apply the decal. Do what Tom says after that. If the rod blank has a flat finish (not shiny), this works best. Re: Decal rise solutions
Posted by:
Mark Talmo
(---)
Date: January 29, 2021 09:08PM
Edward,
Great replies and advice above. At the risk of sounding rude, you are trying making a simple procedure much more difficult than necessary. While there are those (even veterans) who attempt to thin epoxy, doing so is treading on thin ice! Additionally, DNA is not a suitable “solvent” for most epoxies as is acetone. Simply use a thin version of thread epoxy on the blank, let cure, apply decal, apply an overcoat of epoxy (you will probably discover a second will ultimately look nicer) and you’re done. Mark Talmo FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE. Re: Decal rise solutions
Posted by:
Phil Erickson
(---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: January 29, 2021 10:06PM
Something amiss here, no decal is that thick! You must be including the backing which will eventually be removed, even heavy pressure sensitive decals are less the .005 thick. Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2021 12:55AM by Phil Erickson. Re: Decal rise solutions
Posted by:
Norman Miller
(---)
Date: January 29, 2021 10:34PM
I agree with Phil. Many decals are sandwiched between two plastic layers. When you peel away the bottom layer the decal's adhesive is exposed allowing the decal to be stuck to the blank. The top layer protects the decal and allows you to burnish the decal into place. With the decal firmly attached to the blank, the top layer is removed. Now the decal can be coated with finish. I'm guessing you have left the top layer on the decal, which is why the decal is so thick. If this is not the case, I have no idea why your decal is so thick, unless it's not designed to be a rod decal.
Norm Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
|