I’m a bit out of my building experience on this rod. I’ll be using it with both a Shimano Tranx 400 and an Avet SX5.3. I’ll mostly use it to fish lingcod, smaller halibut, cabazon, and rockfish, but it will also be useful for albacore and maybe even large bass swimbaits. It looks like it is factory built as the “Classic” on Alps MXN’s, probably starting with size 16 and COF’ing down to 10’s or 8’s. I don’t have a strong brand preference for guides. I’ve had great success with Fuji Torzite’s in the KR system and their SIC’s in the Concept system. I built using a Mudhole LZR system last year that fished well for me. I am currently building with SeaGuide’s Blu-Titanium on a Point Blank. I’ve never used Alps, but I’d be open to their titanium XN’s or MXN’s.

I’d just go with a KR Torzite train, but this rod seems to hit the middle of a big gap in the KR line, if I am understanding things correctly, the high frame, size 6 would be too small and light. I really like them on my light to medium bass rods, though. The high 16’s and on up are obviously way too tall. Maybe Jim Ising can opine. I’m thinking about some spiral systems, but those are also a bit out of my experience. Basically, I’m open to any good ideas. The distance between the top of the reel foot and top of the spool on the Avet is about 2.25 inches. The Shimano is about a half inch lower. Thank’s to anyone willing to offer advice.

Kendall,
I have also been thinking of a build for the AVET reel. With that blank I would do a spiral Forhan revolver (0, 60, 120 and 180) because of the length. I believe a double foot 12 mm for the stripper then double foot 8 mm to 6 mm running guides either single or double. I believe the Fuji KW, RV (16 mm) or Seaguide BG would be great for strippers. Fuji KWs for runners or RV 6 all the way (16 mm Stripper and the rest 6 mm). Let us know what you decide.
Lance

Kendall,
I've had good results with the titanium Alps guides. I'd feel very comfortable using the MXNs for your application. I'm not sure what scale manufacturers use to rate their products but it's my opinion that Alps guides are UNDER rated. I've fished slightly over 20lbs of drag on rods spiral wrapped with MXNs. The Tranx you mention is capable of a little more drag than that but probably not in your application. I'd also go with a spiral wrap. HOWEVER, with a levelwind reel, I'd offset the stripper to the opposite side of the rotation so that the levelwind works properly (approx. 350, 55, 118, 180). I use a 16mm stripper and 8mm runners only because I choose to use braid mainline and a mono leader connected with an FG knot that must pass through the guide train.

Jon Kistler Wrote:

> with a levelwind
> reel, I'd offset the stripper to the opposite side
> of the rotation so that the levelwind works
> properly (approx. 350, 55, 118, 180).

So the spiral wrap should exceed 180 degrees? And what science or testing has shown the level wind does not operate properly when keeping the spiral wrap to 180 degrees? I have never seen conclusive science or testing on this subject.

My own experience tells me this is not necessary. I have never experienced line stacking on any of my reels- Shimano- using spiral wrapped rods with only a 180 degree spiral. I am one of those who will not exceed 180 degrees. I actually go in the opposite direction with my stripper guide towards the spiral side and for the last 25 years of doing this way I have never experienced line stacking or seen any reason to over compensate for something I have never seen to exist. I would only do something when there is proof it is necessary.

Also, with the fixed ideas of guide placements mentioned above "(approx. 350, 55, 118, 180)" are these intended for every rod regardless of size, length and power and action? A one size fits all type of spiral wrapping methodology?

My point is I let the unique bend of each rod be my guide for where guides are placed based on line flow under load. I want the line flow straightened out as much as possible rather than increase the spiral wrap beyond 180 degrees and force line flow through guides with side loading and angular bends in the line through each transition guide.

There are truly different ways of spiral wrapping rods... I guess I prefer the way the rod tells me works to my advantage rather than against it as I question the many methods presently used.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2021 03:31PM by Kent Griffith.

Double post. So Happy new year! lol



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2021 03:29PM by Kent Griffith.

...Just mentioned how I would do it and what works for me...
Maybe you're not catching many fish but, when MY rod is loaded, my line stacks on the side of the spool that the line transitions around the rod on.

(approx. 350, 55, 118, 180) *** KEY ABBREVIATION- "approx." !!! You're correct most every blank is different.
...personally, I prefer a simple spiral.

Neither of those reels need anything special as far as guides sizes go. Any guide set you see on a common X heavy power salmon rod would work here. I see no need for a butt guide larger than a 16mm nor a tip guide larger than a 7 unless you're passing some kind of large topshot knot.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/02/2021 05:13PM by Spencer Phipps.

I do go from braided line to fluorocarbon with the FG knot, and occasionally use the Alberto. At some point of line wear, I’ll probably give hollow core a try, but I’m not close to that point on either reel. I primarily use the Tranx for Chinook, but it should work great for this rod. I doubt I could maintain over twenty lbs of drag, fishing a nearly eight foot long rod vertically, without needing chiropractic and other joint care. I’ve rarely gone over that on halibut and salmon shark on short rods in Alaska. I keep seeing the drag ratings continuing to go up on freshwater reels and have to think that people know something I don’t.

Haha...There was a day (around the time when titanium guides were "new") that I could hold a 7' or 8' rod with 20lbs of drag but those days are LONG GONE...I fish most often on party(head) boats that have a waist high rail to rest the foregrip on. Now a days that's the ONLY reason I have a use for 20lbs of drag!

I really enjoy bass fishing, so I’m not singling anyone out, here... Still, I have to wonder if any person recent to swimbaits on 30lb. drag reels and 8’ rods has gained a quick master’s of science degree in physics with 65 lb. or stronger braid also now being thrown into the equation. A gator, random Jeremy Wade fish, or shoreline cow could suddenly make one forget about single digit largemouth. Long after Gilligan took his three hour tour, that drag rating and line strength (real) was high spec for those pursuing great white’s and billfish. That was on fishing line with lots of elasticity, as well.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/03/2021 11:17PM by Kendall Cikanek.

There have been a huge amount of very large salmon, sturgeon, halibut, ling cod, etc. Taken on the Penn 209 reels over 70 years, there was never a day those reels had more than a 10 lb. drag.