Hi all I am looking for some input as to which types of glues you all are using to glue up cork rings and also for reel seats. I have been using classic rod builders epoxy glue for all of my glue up steps on my handles however it gets kind of messy.I currently am out of glue and am looking to try something new.

Also when using a mandral for turning and shaping the cork rings what steps are done first. For example do you shape the rings first then ream each ring or just the reverse the reason I ask is I have never used a mandral for turning rings I just ream the rings to match the taper then I glue them to the blank then shape by turning the complete blank. I feel that this way you get the best fitting handle however there is no room for error.What metheds are the rest of you using? I hope this made sense thanks for the input

Judd S.

As for myself, I use Flex Coat Rod Builders glue for mounting reel seats and grips. As for cork rings, I use a good grade of Contact Cement to glue them together.
Like you I have never used a mandel for making up grips. I also attach to rod and turn blank. One reason is, how to keep rings from sticking to mandel. I don't do EVA yet, so I cant help there.
Austin

Judd,
Funny you should ask this as I just finished my first cork handle from rings this afternoon. The way I did it (not saying its right) was I reamed each individual ring to fit. I started at the butt end, reamed a ring then went to the next reaming to fit the blank and so forth untill I had the length I wanted. Then I glued the rings directly on the closest fitting Lamar Reel Seat mandrel, happened to be 3/8", and let it dry. Then this morning I shaped it using my lathe, then busted it loose from the mandrel and put it on the rod. Very easy to do, probably wont by another pre-made cork handle after this. Hope this rambling on helps, Noel

I use any type of slow-cure two part epoxy for glueing up about everything including cork rings.

To keep the rings from sticking to the mandrel just wipe up and down it a few times with a some paraffin wax or just an ordinary candle. They'll hold well enough for shaping and turning but still let you quick twist the finished grip off the mandrel. Then you ream the finished grip to fit the blank.

The advantages to using a mandrel are, mistakes can be tossed out and you can start again without having to strip anything off the blank, you don't need a lathe capable of holding a long rod, just long enough to hold your mandrel which is usually just a foot and a half or so.

Oops sorry I forgot something... I used a 2 part epoxy to glue my rings and seats. I didn't have a problem with the rings sticking to the mandrel, it did need a slight tap with a hammer to break it loose but nothing major. Noel

William
if you ream the cork after the rings are glued up how can you acheive the correct taper to match the taper of the blank you are applying the handle to. What I mean is how do you get the mid section of the grip correct without taking to much out of one end or the other. I think reaming before gluing would be better, or am I not seeing something
Judd

I have been using Pro Bond exterior gel wood glue for glueing the rings together. I do this on a 10 " long piece of 1/4" all thread with a large washer and nut at each end to clamp until dry. I stick the all thread in my hand drill and shape with sand paper. Then I pop the grip off the all thread, ream to fit blank, and glue on the blank with Flex Coat rod builder's epoxy glue.

I only build rods for my personal use and use almost all home made tools (hand drill lathe) and for my purposes they work great. The wood glue was tried as an experiment and I was very happy with the results. Not too messy, easy clean up, almost invisible glue lines. I have used it on last two rods and plan to continue in the future.

Most of my cork reamers are tapered,so it's just a matter of measuring when to stop.The only time I ream them in single form, is when a repair calls for the cork to be put on from the bottom of the rod.My reamers are set up on a drill press and jig set up so it's quite easy to do.I use a 2 part 10 min. epoxy .1 part is blue,the other clear and has the consitancy of Rod Bond.It is gel form when mixed,so their is know mess and it dries clear.But for the money and time I have been using preformed cork grips from a local supplier.Whole sale cost around 8.00 for a set ,fore and rear totaling11 inches.They are listed as extra select and are the quality of ST. Croix Avid & Legend grips..If I were to use single cork rings of the same quality, it would run about the same.So research all of your options and if you don't build more than 10 rods a year maybe this would work for you.

Good Times&lol ,Tony Ely Rods

I read that using Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue was a great cork bond adhesive. I bought some at Home Depot and tried it. It works fine. Since it is water based, it cleans-up nicely and it penetrates the cork very well indeed. It has a great matching color (med. dark brown)and sands very much like the cork when cured. However, The Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue does take a few days to fully cure; so if you are in a hurry then it is not the glue for you to do. However, if you want to try a cork glue that is relatively cheap, effective, easy to clean up after and stores forever, (since it is a powder that you mix with water), then give it a try. It really reminds me of the marine glues that were popoular years ago for homebuilt boats. Weren't those old glues made from hoofs?
Rich

Exterior wood glue for cork.

Kardol 2-part epoxy for reel seats

5-min epoxy for tip-tops

Finish

Lou