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Rod Finish
Posted by:
gervais sharp
(158.26.2.---)
Date: December 03, 2016 12:08AM
I have just finished building my first rods. Now is the time to add the finish. I bought Pro Kote from MudHole and all the reviews I read look good, but then I get to the one that says Pro Kote is great, but too soft for big offshore rods like the ones I have built. Is this true? Should I not use this on my Tuna rods? What should I use, and how many coats should I use? I'm scared to mess them up with the last step. I am very proud of them this far, and hate to ruin something at the end..... Lots of money in these rods.
Thanks in Advance, Gervais Sharp Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Capt. Michael Harmon
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 08:01AM
I don't like prokote because of its short working time but it does cure crystal clear. I prefer flex coat or aftcote. I get a more even finish with a slower cure time. I don't know the answer to your question about using on offshore rods. A longer cure will allow you to do touch up and fix the occasional bubble under a guide foot and also allow any small bubbles in finish to rise to surface and pop. Good luck. MH Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
gervais sharp
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 08:08AM
That is the opposite of everything I have read about Prokote. Everything says 24 hours between coats and plenty of working time because it takes SOOOO long to set up. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: December 03, 2016 08:12AM
It's not "soft" soft. It'll be fine.
Working or pot life has a great deal to do with temperature. The last issue of RodMaker detailed how to build a finish cooler that allows you to sort of dial in the amount of pot life you want with most any finish. Otherwise, work in a cooler area for more pot life, or a warmer one for quicker set up. ............... Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Mud Hole Custom Tackle
(---.res.bhn.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 09:51AM
Original ProKote was designed as a clear medium build finish with a longer pot life. Temperatures being equal - it does have a longer pot life than most other finishes - this was done by design 1) to allow new rod builders more time to apply the finish, 2) to slower cure time produces a more flexible finish, 3) allows more bubble release. It was also designed as a medium build finish, like a high build but not as thick yet thick enough to cover wraps in a single coat.
Feedback from customers was great, but they requested a high build finish which would set up faster - so the Newer ProKote High Build was designed. High build Prokote sets up 25% faster than original ProKote and provide a 25% thinker one coat finish. Both the original ProKote and the newer High Build ProKote are very good finishes - each one has its own merits and loyal followers who like select properties of each. Read more about them by following this link: [proproducts.us] As far as offshore tuna rods - which are subject to high UV exposure and high flexibility, we would recommend original ProKote, two thin coats. Regards. Team Mud Hole Custom Tackle Web: [www.mudhole.com] Email: sales@mudhole.com Toll Free Phone #: 1-866-790-RODS (7637) Stay Connected with us: FaceBook: [www.facebook.com] YouTube: [www.youtube.com] Instagram: [www.instagram.com] Tik Tok: Tik Tok: [www.tiktok.com] Twitter: @mudholetackle Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Donald La Mar
(---.lightspeed.lsvlky.sbcglobal.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 01:45PM
Just take a deep breath and relax. The medium viscosity ProKote will be just fine. Except for bamboo, I use it for all rods including the heavy fly rods for salt.
Really good advice from MudHole above for the original, medium viscosity flavor. Make the first coat thin. Not so thin as to not wet all the thread, but don't worry about thin spots for the first coat. Turn by hand rotating every minute for 15 minutes, then every 90 seconds or 2 minutes for 15 minutes. After that first half hour you can use a rod turner. Second coat will go on easier, just guard against applying too much epoxy. Repeat the manual rotation then a rod turner process and it should be perfect. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Capt. Michael Harmon
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 03:58PM
I must have used the new high build because it was starting to gel 15-20 minutes after mixing for 2 minutes. So much so I was rushing to coat all the wraps on surf rods. I switched back to the flex coat in same temperature and it took an hour for that finish to gel the same amount. Like some other builders I bought it because of the rave reviews. I did like the clarity of the cured product. I used the rest of bottle for epoxy flies. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
gervais sharp
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 04:27PM
Great feedback! I am excited to get started! One more question on the two thin coats...... I wrapped my guides with metallic thread. Everything I read was, don't do this, but I emailed a well respected custom rod builder out of Florida who does use it for heavy offshore rods, and he said its fine. So my question is, do I still only use two thin coats if I double wrapped the guides? Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: December 03, 2016 05:30PM
Generally, it shouldn't take more than maybe 30 seconds or so to coat a guide wrap. Do less. Don't paint it on and brush it around. Just load the brush, lower it to the wrap and let it apply itself as you rotate the rod. Then move on to the next guide.
.............. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Capt. Michael Harmon
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 07:14PM
Tom, I do. I use your method. I like to do two or three rods at a time. Some might have an 8-10" thread pattern as well. The finish didn't work for me but that doesn't mean it's not a good product. I'm happy with what I'm using. Thanks for the input. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 07:27PM
Michael,
I generally do 2 rods at a time. I generally apply finish with the rod spinning at about 30-40 rpm. Stop for an instant to take care of the tunnel, and move on to the next guide. I get the finish on the rod and then move the rod to the dryer for the final touch up of the finish. I will get all of the finish on two rods, and then go back over each rod for a final clean up and touch up of any of the finish that is required. For the touch up - I keep a heat gun in my hand to give a bit of gentle heat if necessary to thin any of the finish to remove any problems. In the past, I would do 4 rods at a time, but it was tough to get all of the finish applied and cleaned up as needed in the gel time of the finish for 4 rods. So, I just do two rods and a time and it works better. Be safe Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Capt. Michael Harmon
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 03, 2016 08:27PM
Thanks Roger. I'll give your method a try. MH Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Dennis Danku
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 04, 2016 03:01AM
Gervais, If procoat is the same as AMTEK rod finish you'll have no problems. In the past I've used just about every finish made and their all good but, AMTEK and PacBay are the most forgiving. Mix ratio, mixing time, application, not a problem. Just slap it on remove whatever sags and 4 hrs spin time is all you need.
After their fully cured in a few days your good to go.Durability will not be an issue. Dennis J. Danku (Sayreville,NJ) Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Russell Brunt
(---.lightspeed.miamfl.sbcglobal.net)
Date: December 04, 2016 09:49AM
Gervais, there are many products that work fine and there are many ways to apply them. What is most important is to find what works for you and stick to it. Therefore I strongly advise you make some pratice runs before doing your first rod. Rebuilding a couple of old rods is a great way to start.
There are trade offs. A harder finish is typically more prone to cracking. That is often a problem on bigger offshore rods with roller guides. Also the guide wraps shouldn't be seeing a lot of scuffing (compared to a wrap near the handle that might contact the boat's gunnel/rail). One common theme seems to always come up with guys just starting out....they apply the finish too slowly. They try to paint and fuss too much. You want to load the brush with finish, lower it so only the epoxy touches the blank, not the actual brush, hand rotate 360 degrees.....move over a brush width and repeat. The biggest problem with metallic thread is it fades in the sun. Some colors are much worse than others. Gold and silver are fine for me but I only use them for trim bands. An entire guide wrap in certain colors is likely to result in you having to cut the wraps off and redo them in as short as a couple of years. But then I live in a sunny place! Russ in Hollywood, FL. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
gervais sharp
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: December 04, 2016 05:01PM
Thanks for the info! I used metallic silver for the guide wrap and metallic blue for the underwrap. I fiswh out of Venice, La and a few older guys turned me onto WD-40 for wiping down my rods. I saw some older rods that looked really great and they say it helps protect against the sun too. Since then, after I wash down my rods/reels with fresh water, I spray WD on a rag and give them a once over. Hopefully this will help with my metallic thread choice? Only time will tell. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Phil Erickson
(---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: December 04, 2016 06:01PM
Your metallic blue will fade fairly rapidly! The WD40 has no UV protection, it does help against corrosion. Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Dennis Danku
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 05, 2016 01:11AM
Don't use WD-40... Wash down your rods and reels with liquid dish detergent and rinse with fresh water. Dennis J. Danku (Sayreville,NJ) Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
gervais sharp
(---.br.br.cox.net)
Date: December 05, 2016 08:05AM
Don't use liquid dish detergent, it cuts grease Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
Dennis Danku
(---.dyn.optonline.net)
Date: December 05, 2016 01:38PM
Then you must repack your reels with fresh lard and bacon grease. Dennis J. Danku (Sayreville,NJ) Re: Rod Finish
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: December 05, 2016 02:30PM
Dennis,
The good news with this technique is that you could do bear hunting with the smell of the reels and not get into trouble with the DNR for Bear Baiting. Be safe Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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