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ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
philip hardy
(62.189.28.---)
Date: November 29, 2016 05:09AM
Hi Guys, just received my ALPS chuck all the way over here in the UK.
It arrived a little worse for wear with a few dinks and dents due to the poor handling no doubt. What I am seeing is there is little space between the main pulley and the drier motor pull to enable the drive belt to be changed??? Also is there a measurement to drill the new holes in the base, or is it just by eye? Also, I note the drive belt is shorter than the original PB one I have so presumably spare belts are required? Any comments would be appreciated. TC Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
Donald La Mar
(---.lightspeed.lsvlky.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 29, 2016 08:32AM
Philip
Cannot help with the location of mounting holes - mine came already mounted. Yes, things are tight, and large fingers are not and an advantage. With use the drive belt will wear in and be a little easier to move from wrap to dry. Yes, you definitely need spare drive belts. They have a way of failing without warning at the worse possible time. Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: November 29, 2016 10:28AM
Phil,
One of the fellows wanted to eliminate the drier motor. Here is a picture of a modified Alps improved head stock and chuck with a small dc motor in the base of the head stock. The system uses XL timing belts and pulleys to run power from the dc motor to the head stock. The system also uses a different foot pedal, power supply and speed control to send dc power to the dc power as needed. The motor can be slowed down nicely to dry when needed, or change its speed as required for wrapping. [www.rodbuilding.org] Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
philip hardy
(62.189.28.---)
Date: November 30, 2016 02:52AM
Hi Roger,
That looks a neat job. Regards, Phil. Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
Kerry Burgess
(---.dhcp.embarqhsd.net)
Date: November 30, 2016 03:14AM
Roger, I am assuming you used a 12 volt DC or 24 volt D gear motor. What kind did you get? Can you send me a link to site? Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
Spencer Phipps
(172.58.39.---)
Date: November 30, 2016 10:10AM
Unless they have dramatically changed things, the belt is an industrial O ring and easy to find. Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
roger wilson
(---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: November 30, 2016 02:30PM
Kerry,
You can do an internet search for the 12 or 24 volt DC gear motor. I generally prefer to use the 24 volt DC motors, since they will have more power than the same motor in 12 volts. A 1000 rpm motor like this one works very well. [www.amazon.com] If you want the motor to run consistently slower and have better control, if you are doing complex wraps and for drying, you might prefer a 100 rpm motor. [www.amazon.com] A speed controller like this one, will do a nice job of varying the speed from 0% to 100% rpm. [www.amazon.com] You can also incorporate a double pole double throw switch in the circuit to flip motor direction at the flip of a switch. Then, use the same value variable resistor as is found int he speed controller to incorporate into a foot switch to use a foot switch - rather than a dial to vary the speed. Good luck Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
philip hardy
(62.189.28.---)
Date: December 01, 2016 03:17AM
OK puzzle is solved, the drive belt is the same as the Pac bay one, my old one had stretched.
I've managed to get hold of a grub screw, (set screw), so all is well. The supplier Get Bit Outdoors have been very helpful, still hope to get the replacement set screw from them though! Cheers and thanks for all the replies. Phil. Re: ALPS Chuck
Posted by:
philip hardy
(---.dynamic.dsl.as9105.com)
Date: December 05, 2016 03:09PM
Another quick question, the chuck came with 4 round spacers, just wondering what they are for?
Phil. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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