Syncork is a plastic material made in the USA. Syncork is lighter and denser than natural cork, while providing the ability, depending on how it’s shaped, to leave different surface textures, from silky smooth for a refined feel in hand to a rougher surface for a more comfortable and secure grip, even with wet, cold hands. It provides a range of finishing options that can’t be accomplished with organic cork. Syncork can’t absorb water, dry out or rot, making long-lasting, durable grips that will look like the day it was shaped, even after 10 years of heavy use. Syncork is also resistant to insect repellents, UV rays, accelerated weather conditions, sunscreen, many petroleum products, alkaline, and many other chemicals found in practical fishing situations.

Check out our working with Syncork Video [getrodblanks.com]- it-all- about/

Pete Riola
High performance blanks by Gregg Thorne
[getrodblanks.com]
pete@getrodblanks.com

Isn't lighter and denser an oxymoron? I haven't used syncork but I believe you meant lighter and more rigid.

How can I get a sample.

Thanks

John

Given the cost, the best way to try it out would be to just buy one grip and see what you think. It's not a huge investment. If everybody starts asking for samples the company has to recover that cost, usually by upping the regular price.

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We reference "denser" as a measurement of compression, so if you were to try to squeeze it or compress it, it would have a greater resistance than organic cork so we say it's denser. We're not grammar experts but we do have most all of our website description text reviewed by 2 professional writers and they haven't brought it up. That being said we do appreciate and are open to constructive criticism like the suggestion you offered, without it you don't grow! Thanks for looking at Syncork we hope you give it a try!

I also think "rigid" is the term that would make more sense as most people associate denser with being heavier. Which in cases within the same class of material, would be true.

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Bottom line - syncork is a great handle and grip material and makes an excellent addition to your custom fishing rod.

Take care

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:11PM by John E Powell.

I think if you try Syncork on a handle you will really like it. It's easy to work with and feels great in the hand.

Pete Riola
High performance blanks by Gregg Thorne
[getrodblanks.com]
pete@getrodblanks.com

Comments deleted



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/20/2016 04:11PM by John E Powell.

Hi,
I ordered some syncork a few years ago from thorne bros... It looks promising but I have to admit I had some issues working with it.
Lonnie advised me to use normal five minute epoxy but personally I don't like that because it hardens too fast and that can be an issue with long handles. So here is my question: Will normal rod bond do the job also?
Another problem I had was that there were small "dots" sticking out on the flat surface, but I resolved this with sanding the sides of the rings.
Biggest problem for me was the glueing proces...I tried many glues, even purchased some special 3M stuff but when I tested them they didn't hold up. Syncork seems the perfect solution, especially for trolling rods, but I didn't trust the glueing proces enough to use it on an expensive blank!
Mr. Thorne, what glue do you suggest that is reliable and has a longer working time than 5-minute epoxy?
Thanks,
Jeroen

Was there several posts a while back about gluing the rings together Some sort of problem where they did not hold and a certain glue had to be used

Bill - willierods.com

Hi Jeroen,
If 5 minute epoxy doesn't allow you enough time to place all the rings there are a number of simple options, 1- is to do it in 2 or 3 stages, 2 - they make 10 minute, 15 minute, 20 minute and 30 minute epoxies and is stocked in many hobby stores, I'll start stocking it on the website soon. I appreciate you bringing it up, I'm pretty speedy in the gluing process and can glue a 19 inch butt grip in one mix of 5 minute epoxy but it's not correct on my part to think everyone can.... not to mention it's a heck of a race to get it in the clamp in time! The best solution for you would be to use 10 or 15 minute epoxy. If you can't find any where local or on line let me know I'll get some to you in a speedy fashion. I've tried dozens of other types of adhesive products and 2 part epoxy has been without a doubt the best so far. It anchors it on the rod blank for good. Thanks for trying Snycork hope you learn how to use it and love it!
Kind regards,
Gregg

Hi Jeroen,
If 5 minute epoxy doesn't allow you enough time to place all the rings there are a number of simple options, 1- is to do it in 2 or 3 stages, 2 - they make 10 minute, 15 minute, 20 minute and 30 minute epoxies and is stocked in many hobby stores, I'll start stocking it on the website soon. I appreciate you bringing it up, I'm pretty speedy in the gluing process and can glue a 19 inch butt grip in one mix of 5 minute epoxy but it's not correct on my part to think everyone can.... not to mention it's a heck of a race to get it in the clamp in time! The best solution for you would be to use 10 or 15 minute epoxy. If you can't find any where local or on line let me know I'll get some to you in a speedy fashion. I've tried dozens of other types of adhesive products and 2 part epoxy has been without a doubt the best so far. It anchors it on the rod blank for good. Thanks for trying Snycork hope you learn how to use it and love it!
Kind regards,
Gregg

Thanks for the info Gregg!
I understand it is not always easy to name brands, but I assume you are talking about the flexcoat products (30-minute epoxy)?
I'll give it a go!
Greetings from Antwerp!
Jeroen

Hi again Jeroen,
Flex Coat would be an excellent choice. I failed to respond to your mention of the occasional "little dots" on the side surface of the rings, they are a result of the molding process. I generally don't bother sanding those down at all, if one its higher then a 16th of an inch or higher I will (most are about a half that height) with a decent glue clamp and compression, the little nubbins will compress into the joining surface or creating a better locking tension against horizontal twisting type pressures. Thanks for reaching out all the way fro Antwerp ! ;-)
King regards,
Gregg