Hi all. I am about to build my first fly grip. It is going on a Sage One 5 wt. I am absolutely confident in my abilities to glue the cork, get the shape I aim for, and ream it to the correct size for the blank, so, no issues there.


However, some questions remain.....


I am planning on using a long drill bit for a mandrel. It is smooth, and there is plenty of smooth, unfitted metal beyond either end of the cork. I will use a drill press, and a block with a polymer bushing as a makeshift lathe.

So.. I have some concern about the cork gluing too tightly to the mandrel if left too long. I am very familiar with glue set times (Titebond III) and was planning on using some silicone spray on the shaft prior to gluing up, as a release. And, planning on setting it free as soon as the glue is set. This might not be the best plan... please advise....


What is a standard work flow for making a cork grip?

And, how is the inlet for the unlocking reel seat, cut? And, at what point in the build is it cut? Are there various ways?



And the most fun questions.... About shape.... This past weekend I fished a friends rod, as I am just getting back in to fly fishing, and do not currently have a rod. It has, what I believe is called a 'cigar' grip. It seems skinny... But I like the feel, kind of. Somewhere I read about finding a proper custom shape by putting some molding clay on a stick, and gripping it, shaping it into a custom molded grip. I can see how a custom concentric shape could be made, or asymmetrical.. I am aware of the other common shapes..

Any suggestions of any sort on the shape of a fly rod seat, especially given that I am the one who decides what shape it takes, within reason?

Thank you all..

Never used a drill press to turn a grip, but it could work I suppose. It's sort of a lathe just on another axis.

Instead of a drill bit, think about a length of threaded rod, which could be used with fender washers and nuts to press the rings together during the TiteBond cure. Rub paraffin on the threaded rod as the release agent. Using anything with silicone in any rod building process sort of worries me.

The primary steps to build up a cork grip are to: (1) glue up 13 or 14 1/2" cork rings and allow to cure under pressure; (2) turn the cork to shape; (3) inlet the grip for the reel seat hood (if the reel seat has a hood to set into the grip); (4) ream the grip to fit the blank.

The easiest way to inlet the grip to accept the reel seat hood is to use a tool made specifically for that purpose. Here is a link to one such tool [www.mudhole.com]. Alternatively you can purchase a pre-inlet cork ring to fit the reel seat hood's diameter and depth.

The Flex Coat site has a drawing of various grip configurations and their dimensions, which you can adjust to fit your hand. Just work slowly and continually try the grip until you have the size comfortable to you.

Usually, cigar grips are used for shorter and lighter line weight rods and are usually paired with down locking reel seats and therefore not inlet. Half Wells grips are also not usually inlet and frequently used with down locking seats. A reversed half Wells is very popular for rods up to about 7 weight and full Wells are frequently used for 7 weights a heavier. It ultimately is a matter of personal preference - turn what you think comfortable to your hand and appropriate.

Good luck.

Not to be disagreeable, but half wells shaped grips are very common on fly rods up to about 6wt. and many are recessed for the reel seats. Down locking seats are becoming very rare in use. as they put the reel in the dirt if you stand the rod against some thing while fishing.

I have diagrams of the various fly rod grip shapes that are to scale that I can send you if interested. Just click on my name above for my email.

I use a forstner bit to make the recess. I build lots of custom grips, using a lathe.

The handle is glued now. I am about to start truing it up. I think I may actually go with a full wells shape. The moment of truth is coming near.

A friend nearby has a lathe, and is going to help me create the recess.

The handle is glued now. I am about to start truing it up. I think I may actually go with a full wells shape. The moment of truth is coming near.

A friend nearby has a lathe, and is going to help me create the recess.

Custom Rod Grips, a sponsor, has free, downloadable grip templates. It would behoove you to look at them
for proportions as well as style. Very easy yo make an error putting you back to the titebond.

All shaped now, very pleased with the results.

I used a 'Dragon rasp' for the bulk of the rough cutting. It is a hand made rasp (hand struck teeth) that is frequently used among luthiers for shaping instrument necks. If anyone else uses rasps for cutting cork, check out the Dragon Rasp. They are not cheap, but they are sharp, and come in different grades. Not sure how it works on EVA, but I think it might work well.

A little late for your project, but to comment on turning glued ring cork grips, all I use is a drill press and sandpaper varying from 60 to 400. I drill the 1/4 inch holes in the ring before gluing to 5/16. I use 5/16 threaded rod for a mandrel and wax from a toilet seal for release agent. The lower end of the mandrel is stabilized with a 5/16 bore inexpensive ball bearing sunk into a 3/4 board which is C-clamped to the table of the drill press. Rock solid. Adjust the drill press speed to what works best. Use a sanding block around the sandpaper. Works fine. The Batson reamer is hard to beat for getting the bore to the right diameter.