Today I sanded down a tiger wrap base layer's epoxy due to some previous error I made. Started with 400 then 800 and finally 1000. I cleaned it off with soapy water and dried it. Then I used DNA as a final wipe down of the area. I got a real nice layer of epoxy on nice and smooth. I walked away and came back after an hour and a half or so, and the thing had huge areas where the epoxy had been repelled from the previous layer.

From reading previous threads, it seems as though I have contamination, though I'm not sure how. The question is weather or not I can fix it with more sanding or should I just try to cut the thread and start fresh? I really want this tiger to work out, as I plan it to be an underwrap for my first guide.

Some DNA's have a type of thin oil base in them.
Which is the contamination causing your problem.
Clean and dry it again using dish soap to remove the contamination and use coffee filter to dry. and DO NOT REAPPLY DNA, and apply another coat of epoxy or remove what you have or start over if you do not want the extra weight.

What kind of tread did you use? Maderia ?

Never use a solvent wipe as the final step in your surface preparation. The proper procedure is - clean, scuff, apply epoxy/paint/etc.

.................

Steve, thanks. I think I may let it harden so I can sand it smooth again. Then add another coat after cleaning per Tom's instructions. This is so frustrating...the rod is so close to completion; this is pretty much all that's holding me back.

Sheridan, I wasn't applying over thread, but rather over a coat of epoxy that was already in place. Two actually. They both went on glassy smooth.

But the thread under the first two layers was Madeira with two soaking coats of cp. Non fisheyes in the first two layers.

By the way, is this what a fisheye is? When the epoxy pulls away from its base? I've read about these using Madeira with no cp, but never really understood what a fisheye is.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/07/2016 12:18PM by Randy Weakley.

That is what a fishy eye is.
But in this case caused by your solvent. Use dish soap to clean, It will cut through oil base in the solvent, then do as Mr Kirkman suggests.

Man this hobby has so many time consuming lessons to learn by error!!! Or maybe I'm just a dunce...who's to say?

That is why it is a smart thing to come buy here and read posts That has been spoken of many times

Bill - willierods.com

As Mr. Kirkman suggested, sand and apply finish .

I do use masking tape to tack off the surface before applying finish and that works fine.

But, I did the same thing as you did once. i.e. I cleaned with DNA and applied finish and had issues.

Now, I never use DNA on a rod wraps after I have started the build.

Be safe

Actually a fish eye is when a bubble in the finish pops creating a small crater, What you are experiencing is when the finish pulls back,

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Never use a solvent wipe as the final step in your
> surface preparation. The proper procedure is -
> clean, scuff, apply epoxy/paint/etc.
>
> .................

Great thread.

Tom Kirkman: Do you throw isopropyl alcohol in with the lot of "solvents" to never use? Thanks.

Bill I come here frequently, as I'm sure you've noticed. Yes I post a lot of questions, but occasionally I find a post from someone a bit newer than myself that I actually posses the knowledge to help out. As for myself, I usually google what I am looking for with the word "rodbuilding" in the search. It often points me in the right direction, which is how I knew I had contamination. However sometimes there is no reason to go looking for an answer to a question you don't have. I've never had a problem with DNA in previous use and have read many, many posts recommending its use. So there was no reason for me to come here with a question of "will alcohol screw up my epoxy?"

Think of it like a car. You wouldn't probably go onto google searching for "why does my car turn left when I turn the steering wheel right" unless you had the problem first. Extreme case, but same principle.

Never use any type solvent as the final step in surface preparation. Isopropyl is a solvent in that regard. Cleaning the always the first step, not the last.

..........

This is not just a place to ask questions It has infor on most every post that anyone can learn something
There is always questions on fish eyes and the use of alcohol as a cleaning agent here guess ya just mist the posts

Bill - willierods.com

[www.rodbuilding.org]

............

Thanks Tom, I've actually read that, just didn't recall the information at the time. I should probably take notes on important information like that to have on hand during the building process. I usually read the forum and articles on my iPad. So the information remains scattered across the site and various library articles.

Bill, yeah I missed them until it was too late. I am going to have to try to be more proactive about my learning. The great thing about this is that it's usually not beyond repair when I screw up. I guess the only real worry is gooning up a grip section. I've read posts about stripping those and it looks like a HUGE pain...especially if it's with an aluminum seat. I don't even know if that would be possible.

You all are a great help in learning. That and the books and periodicals. Just bought a back issue of Rodmaking to try the reverse pilot bit tutorial. If I like it, I will probably get a sub. I also purchased Toms book for beginners and the guide special issue CD. I guess my point is I do perform other research, but the personal help obtained on the forum is fantastic too.

Sanded smooth and ready for round two. I used dish detergent and water to clean. Let it dry for a bit and well see how it turns out.

[www.rodbuilding.org]