I am trying to do a simple wrap with 3 colors, 2 0n the bottom and 1 on top. I have completed the bottom portion it looks o.k. Question is do I use color preserver on the top wrap?

Why not do TWO wraps one with CP and one without This way you will see how it works Regular nylon without cp will get transparent and you will see under it It may look good both ways

Bill - willierods.com

Yes.

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OK
Why not use NCP thread on top and cut out a step

Bill - willierods.com

Thanks
I should have also asked when to use it, before or after waste thread is removed
Robert

Did you read the original articles on the technique in the online library here:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

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Are you saying all 4 threads being the same size Understood
But instead of using regular nylon in A Understood NCP is not the Nicest looking color But using NCP on top plus the pull out - even a larger size which will be discarded Eliminating the use of CP

But then again regular nylon will look better A lot of builders have done different things - Ya never know how it will look - Unless _ ya try it
There are many posts of different ways builders have done it

Bill - willierods.com

I always cp the top layer whether using nylon or ncp thread to prevent the thread from moving when I apply the epoxy. When using cp on the top layer you need to be careful and not brush across the wrap as this can cause micro bubbles to form and get trapped in the spacings and totally ruin your tiger wrap when you apply the epoxy. What works best for me is to make a 50/50 mix of flexcoat cp and distilled water. By thinning the cp with water there is less chance of it frothing and forming the micro bubbles. I hold a well loaded brush on the wrap and turn the rod with my other hand working my way along and completely saturating the wrap. I put some paper towels down to catch the drips. I then do the same procedure with a dry brush and wick off the excess then do another two more coats. When I apply the epoxy I do it the same way as the cp holding a well loaded brush on the wrap and turning the rod and not brushing across the wrap as epoxy can also cause micro bubbles to form in the spacings. When coated I wick off best part of the epoxy until I'm left with a thin sealer coat making it easy for removing air bubbles with my alcohol torch/lamp. The next coat is applied thicker and I can brush across the wrap this time without fear of forming micro bubbles in the spacings as they were sealed on the first coat.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)