Has anyone finished a paint job with a 2k automotive urethane clear wiped on like PermaGloss? I have an HVLP spray gun that can use; I get beautiful results but SOOOOOO much overspray. I think only about 10 percent of what's sprayed ends up on the blank. So I was thinking about wiping it down with a sponge brush and the wrapper turning like you would with PermaGloss.

Good idea, try it on an old blank/rod and let us know how it it works.
Norm

I guess I can do that. I'll give it a go soon maybe. I should be getting my power wrapper soon. I don't really have any spare blanks at the moment, so maybe I can get a cheap metal rod from the depot. The color coat may need some time to cure also if I do a test piece. The blank I'm doing has been painted and curing for a couple weeks. May have to do it in 2 weeks or so if I want to do a test with a fresh paint job.

can't you adjust the spray pattern to very small and maybe get more on the blank
Those guns are for spraying a car - what about an airbrush
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Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/06/2016 07:52AM by bill boettcher.

That is certainly a possibility which I have thought of, but it seems to me to flow the same amount of paint in a smaller pattern. So in my mind this makes it harder to control than a wide pattern due to the speed at which I would have to paint. Of course this could all be in my head.

I should talk to the paint store. They have some knowledgeable people. They could probably tell me about brushing as well. I'll come back with some info to post here.

I would think ?? that the paint can be thinned if it comes out to thick with the smaller pattern
Talk to the paint store and get advice You may have to experiment with different patterns and paint thickness But those guns are fully adjustable

Also try wiping it on Even then you may have to thin it a little

Bill - willierods.com

try applying to a fiberglass ice rod blank - they're less than $5

Mat that's a great idea! And if it works out, maybe I could build it up cheap too and have it for a surprise trip up north.

I think you are asking for a mess. I doubt that it will work with even passable results.

You say HVLP, is that a turbine? Compressed air? Gravity feed? Pressure cup?


If you adjust your fan the best you can, at least the finish will be great. (should be) Overspray is just part of the cost, as always.

I think you are asking for a mess. I doubt that it will work with even passable results.

You say HVLP, is that a turbine? Compressed air? Gravity feed? Pressure cup?


If you adjust your fan the best you can, at least the finish will be great. (should be) Overspray is just part of the cost, as always.

Its a gravity fed gun hooked up to an air compressor.

These are guns that are used to Paint Cars !!

[www.google.com]

Bill - willierods.com

Bill, yep that's what I have. It produces beautiful results but wastes a ton of paint.

I have talked to a body shop like some have suggested. I figured they could just do it at the end of painting a car, because they probably will be pouring out the leftover paint anyways. I figured it would take them a couple minutes (that's what it takes me), but they wanted to charge me $100 for a 6' two piece rod!

Heck for that kind of money I'll paint blanks all day LOL
maybe look into the air brush You will use less material You should be able to use that gun but experiment with reducing the clear and adjusting the fan and material adjustment

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2016 10:36AM by bill boettcher.

As long as your fluid tip is the right size (1.3 is ideal ) the gravity feed HVLP is a good choice. Yes, there is going to be some waste, but the results should be good.


An airbrush could work, but really, you should be able to bring the fan down on your gun enough to get the results you want. An airbrush could also be a total PITA that limits your potential, if it has difficulty spraying enough material. The finish needs to be sprayed as wet as possible, without running or sagging, in order to get a really glossy finish.

Chris, I'll have to try that. I'll talk to the paint shop about how to adjust the gun better. Maybe I can run water through it or something to adjust the pattern so I don't have to mix up paint to do so. Let it dry for a day before painting.

Put a large piece of one color paper or even cardboard box on a wall Get a gallon of even lacquer thinner ( this will also clean the gun ) and spray it on the paper as you adjust the gun
Check the net there should be a lot of info under How To Adjust Spray Pattern On HVLP spray gun
If I remember right In the back of the gun there are two knobs Top should be for the pattern and the bottom for how much material ( paint ) goes though the gun and out the spray head

And a good respirator should be worn

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/08/2016 02:38PM by bill boettcher.

Spraying lacquer thinner to set the fan will not help, beyond maybe gaining some experience in watching fulid move through the gun, which may have some limited value. Every finish is adjusted very slightly differently at the time of spraying, unless you have a finish completely 'dialed in'.

Water is a BAD idea in a gun you are spraying automotives through.


When you get a gun loaded up with finish, that is when you set your pattern. The fluid adjustment will be set a little ways ope, less than halfway. Maybe 1/3. Then, set the fan so that it atomizes well. Air is a also a very important consideration. Since you are using HVLP{, that gun relies on a 'high volume (of air) at low pressure. If you have long hose runs, or skinny hose, or a weak compressor, it will be near impossible to get the fan set correctly. I use devilbiss HVLP hose on my setup, and HVLP fittings. Also, a small regulator at the gun handle is considered as mandatory by many folks. I have them on all my hvlp guns. That way, the effects of the hose run are minimized.

Automotive paint is very expensive, so the feeling of waste is not good,, however, spraying a shape like a fishing rod is a difficult thing not to have waste on. It would require a very specific setup, or workflow.

Most important thing, is that you get the finish that you set out to achieve. Spray it wet, til it hangs, not quite sagging.

I sprayed cars for 30 years When I cleaned the guns out I can see the thinner coming out of the gun

I will guarantee that gun set correctly will spray a blank But it has to be adjusted The paint will prably has to be adjusted also Depends on how it lays on the object being painted -- Good light helps
Spraying the thinner on the paper will show the pattern of the fan and give him an idea of how large and how small it can become
I said thinner or reducer what ever is cheap -- yet will not harm the gun

If you bought the gun new it should have some sort of paperwork Check that out

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 04/09/2016 02:40PM by bill boettcher.

Thanks Bill. I think I will stick to spraying until I can test out other methods. I went to the auto paint supply shop today and got hooked up with a quick lesson on gun adjustment. The guy said I could brush on, but don't want t to try on a rod before I can practice.

He also hooked me up with a bit of reducer for free! So I may try using that. Thanks for all the help and tips!