G'day Guys,

I have been asked to have a look at a rod where the customer is having problems with the reel seat nut loosening during use and it is obviously giving him enough grief that he has bought it in to be looked at. The rod is a light spin rod and it has what I think is a Fuji SKSS split seat (i haven't determined the size yet) set up to be uplocking. There is a bit of play between the threaded barrel and the hood but I don't see any value in just replacing the hood and nut as I think the same thing will happen again i.e. it may just be the way he holds the rod that is causing the loosening issue.

So, is there a compatible back stop lock nut that I can just add behind the existing hood and nut? Or would I have to replace the existing hood and nut with one that incorporates the lock nut?

Or can anyone think of another fix?

Any help appreciated, as always.

Cheers

Jason

PS I think in this instance I can just remove the cork butt cap and winding check and work form the back of the rod, which should make things relatively easy. It would just mean replacing the butt, salvaging the trim ring and replacing a small thread wrap.

I'm interested in seeing the replies. I built a St. Croix SCII, IV fly rod and the single nut keeps coming loose during use.

It is called a back stop nut, and does what you are looking for. and it does work with older seats, but it your reel seat has a fore grip on it you might have to take it off to install it. along with any guides that it will not go over.

Before an extensive rebuild at considerable cost I would try placing a tightly stretched ring of electrical tape right up against the current lock nut. Or putting something on the thread surface (like a piece of cotton string) to create a slight interference fit. I'll bet you get responses from others who have solved this problem without rebuild.

Uplocking reel seats have tendency to loosen because the back of your hand over laps the reel seat nut tending to loosen it while fishing. I build all my spinning rods with down locking reel seats, they do not tend to loosen. If you are going to replace the reel then set it up as down locking. The new fuji back stop locking nut can be used with a variety of reel seats, however to to add one you will have to replace the reels seat since the treads are toward the rear. It is not an easy fix either way (adding a locking nut or repositioning the reel) because you need to strip down the rod. As mentioned above, the easiest fix is to add tape behind the current locking hood. Hope this helps.
Norm

Jason,
Another simple solution is to take a longer rubber band and cut it. Then, take the elastic band, after the nut is tightened down on the rod and do about 3 or 4 wraps with the rubber band. Then, tie a good knot to tie the two ends tightly together.

You will need to use a knife to cut the band off, and if needed, just use another new band to lock up the reel when you need it.

With a smaller sized band, the band will completely bury itself in the threads and will not cause a grip issue at all.

Just ordered one of these. Backstop nut, Fuji LOGR- (size) AN. This is is just the nut, (no hood) for use with an existing reel seat. Get Bit Outdoors.

Jason
Been thinking of this for a while
Now If you have the real and you can not just add another nut to lock them in place
What if --
Mark where the nut locks the seat in place -- Then back the nut off at least an inch And then a little more Clean the threads Scoffing may just help
Now a _ thin coat of Permagloss on the area where the nut holds the reel in place
I say a THIN coat on the threads Do not put a heavy coat on - very thin - All you want to do is coat the threads NOT PUT A HEAVY COAT ON --
let dry WELL i would say at least 48 hours Fully Curred I have done this with permagloss on a mail of a ferrule to get rid of the slack and made them fit a lot better This may just take the slack out and make the nut hold tighter -- can not guarantee Just let the permagloss Fully Cure

Bill - willierods.com

G'day,

Thank you all for your replies.

This is a fairly expensive semi-custom rod and the customer wants it fixed permanently. I'm leaning towards the back stop lock nut but with the reel in the seat there is only about 6-7mm of thread showing behind the nut. Does anyone know how wide the lock nut is and if it will fit in 6-7mm?

I've put up a photo of the seat in the photos section [www.rodbuilding.org] so you can see what I'm dealing with.

Cheers

Jason

It looks like by removing the butt grip you should be able to add the locking nut to the reel seat. It should go over the winding check with no problem. It will be snug but the locking nut should work because there is no handle behind it to stop it from moving backwards over the blank when removing the reel. With the reel in place just move it to the treads and lock down. If the treaded area has been previously cut back and it is too short just buy and extra tread section they are cheap. You may need to replace the butt grip. If you have a hollow cork borer you may be able to get the butt off in one piece, if you are careful, and reuse it. If not just cut it off and add a new one. Hope this helps.
Norm

There ya go As Norm said Remove what you have to add extra thread section just what is needed for both nuts Reglue and refinish

Bill - willierods.com

Jason,
If you only have 6 mm of thread showing when the reel is on the rod, and the nut tight, how do you think that you will have enough room for a locking nut?

Don't you currently have to make the current thread loose all of the way back to the end of the threads to remove and replace the current reel?

i.e. you need to see how many threads are left - when the current nut is loose enough to just get a reel onto the blank.

With the nut in that position - that is how much room you will have to install or add a locking nut.

When I first started building rods, I would trim excess length off of the reel seat. However, I got burned twice when I went to put a new reel on a couple of these rods, and the new reel feet were two long to accommodate the new reels.

For myself, since I really wanted to put these new reels on the rods, I ended up trimming the feet of the reels, along with thinning the thickness of the reel feet. However, because I was burned twice on rods of my own due to this issue, I then stopped trimming the length of the threads on the reel seat. Now, I have had no other issues when someone goes to install a different reel from which the rod was originally built.

A good rod with care can last many man years. But as time goes by, a lot of folks replace and or change their reels for use on a particular rod.

Good luck

G'day Guys,

Thanks for all the responses.

Norman, thanks, I reckon that's the way I'll go. I never thought of adding another section of threaded barrel but that is a great idea.

Roger, this seat is split and the threaded portion is only a thread barrel on the blank, so the hood and nut can come right off the end of it, which means that length is normally not an issue. It is an issue here as I also have to add the length of the locking nut. Check out the photo and you will see what I mean.

Cheers

Jason

The Back Stop lock nut is not an arbitrary addition to any hood nut configuration. There is a floating collar on the Lok Nut that seats in the back of specific hood nuts. If you want a seamless and attractive (and permanent) repair you will need to remove the butt grip and change hoods. Use the DPSM/ASH hood and the Lock Nut LOG/AN. These two pieces are designed to fit (and LOCK) together perfectly. I think it will also gain you enough thread to secure the assembly. I don't think 6mm will be sufficient for adding the LOG/AN with the current set up.

Thanks Jim,

Lucky I've been slack and haven't ordered the bits yet.

Cheers

Jason