I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

Arcylic plastic
Posted by: Paul James Vonderwall (---.pa.vic.optusnet.com.au)
Date: December 20, 2015 11:15PM

Hi Paul here I am just wandering if you help
Me I have some square arcylic plastic
Mulity colors.is there a way to drill a hole
All the way is there a jig at all on the market
To do this I hope some one can help

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Arcylic plastic
Posted by: Jerry Poindexter (---.tx.res.rr.com)
Date: December 21, 2015 12:06AM

I use alot of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" acrylic in my grips. I made a jig to hold the squares while using a hole saw in a drill press that also includes a 1/4" hole.. I then use the Flexcoat pilot bits to enlarge the hole. I'm limited to how deep I can plunge the pilot bit by the travel of my drill press. Unhide your email addy, and I'll send some pics, if interested.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Arcylic plastic
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: December 21, 2015 02:53AM

Paul,
A lathe with a good chuck on the head stock and a jacobs style chuck on the tail stock makes quick work of center drilling grip material.

Chuck the material in the head stock chuck and then use an air craft extension bit that is long enough to drill the full length of the grip material. Use a relatively slow speed for drilling to avoid burning the plastic.

As long as the bit is long enough, you can drill the full length of any handle material.

This is a picture taken a couple of years ago, center drilling a wood handle that I had turned on the lathe.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

In retrospect, it would have been better to have done the drilling before I did any of the grip shaping. With the material drilled, it can be slipped onto a mandrel for shaping with ease on the lathe.

Good luck

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Arcylic plastic
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: December 21, 2015 07:50AM

If you have a lathe I'd go the route Roger has suggested. I would add that when drilling plastic, you want to withdraw the bit and clear the flute of the plastic chips every few seconds. Failure to do this can result in heat build up that will split the plastic stock. Generally, you may have to drill, withdraw, drill, withdraw, etc., for 3 or 4 times on a standard length seat insert length.

....................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Arcylic plastic
Posted by: Scott Kelly (---.sub-70-194-137.myvzw.com)
Date: December 21, 2015 11:19AM

For drilling acrylic, you need to sharpen the bit differently than normal. Basically it needs to be a 60* angle and flatten the cutting edges so it is more like a scraper than a cutting edge. There are images on the net that show how. Works on almost all plastics.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Arcylic plastic
Posted by: Paul James Vonderwall (---.pa.vic.optusnet.com.au)
Date: December 21, 2015 01:26PM

Thanks guys we what call mens work shop they a lathe there i might
Take it with me in the morning I did with a bowling ball but I use a
Key hole saw on a drill but I cut crap off and sanded the other and polished
It that was to much work thanks again

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Arcylic plastic
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: December 21, 2015 04:43PM

Paul,
If you say so!

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Arcylic plastic
Posted by: Paul James Vonderwall (---.pa.vic.optusnet.com.au)
Date: December 23, 2015 11:44AM

Jerry Poindexter Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I use alot of 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" acrylic in my grips.
> I made a jig to hold the squares while using a
> hole saw in a drill press that also includes a
> 1/4" hole.. I then use the Flexcoat pilot bits to
> enlarge the hole. I'm limited to how deep I can
> plunge the pilot bit by the travel of my drill
> press. Unhide your email addy, and I'll send some
> pics, if interested.


Hi jerry yes I am very interested thank you
vonderwall101@gmail.com

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster