On a MH bass rod I have to repair, the tip is broken off 3 inches from the top. I have done a number of these with great success but in this case I have a question.

A fiberglass sleeve that I have fits the taper exactly, but it is off a panfish fiberglass rod. It is a lot thinner than what I normally use and was wondering at that area in the blank once epoxied in place and wrapped, which by the way is exactly where the guide goes, is that thinner sleeve going to be sufficient in strength or should I use a thicker wall sleeve?

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Tom

An outer sleeve is almost always the better repair. Remember that as the diameter drops, such as it would with an inner sleeve, you lose stiffness per the same wall thickness.

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Tom, I am using an outer sleeve, so you are saying that the thinner diameter of my sleeve once properly installed should be OK?

Possibly. Since it's on the outside it'll be tad stiffer. and if the rod you're repairing is graphite, you may be close to having the same stiffness in both (ideal). Of course the walls have to be of at least sufficient thickness to perform this job. I tend to think it's going to be okay, however. There isn't that much flex in that area of the rod. Once you put a decent load on it, the area that close to the tip flattens out.

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I see these questions all the time

I don't understand how any fisherman serious about his/her equipment will use a rod patched together like that.

I did it once before I started building.
Ross rods patched a tip section on a fly rod and it lasted 2weeks and the resulting action was abominable.
Just don't understand.
Herb

Done properly, the repair will last forever and you'll hardly be able to notice any difference.

Don't blame a sound technique on a poor job done by someone that either didn't understand how to do it, or did it poorly.

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Actually, I agree with Mr. Kirkman.

I have patched many rods from the tip all of the way to the butt. As was stated, if done properly, there is typically not a large difference in the action of the rod. Obviously, the closer to the tip, the break has occurred, the more pronounced will be the change in the rod action.

Whenever possible, I use both an inner sleeve and outer sleeve. Try to use only fiberglass for the repair since glass will stiffen the rod less than if the sleeve were graphite. I will also thin the sleeve to be strong enough, without giving added weight or stiffness or weight to the repair.

Be safe

Herb, you are mistaken. I have saved a nice Loomis rod of mine, don't even notice the repair. Would it be better to just scrap the rod? I've repaired a number of rods for friends and they are still using them and enjoying them and cannot detect a loss of performance. To not try a repair is to be defeated without even trying to win. I only use outside sleeves, usually from cheap graphite rods which probably have sort of low modulus compared to the blanks being repaired. Which is what you want.

Last week we were talking about using single foot minima guides as tip-tops because tubes were too heavy this week we're over sleeving blanks 3 inches from the tip! This is a weird place at times.

Lynn,
Just part of the wonderment, as to whether saving a gram ot two makes that much difference.

Be safe

There is a difference - a rod that is broken and is desired to be put back in service is going to have to live with some extra weight, slight as it is. Saving weight does make a difference, but if a rod is broken and you are not willing add that bit of weight, then you have nothing left. The rod is finished. There is no other option.

Conversely, a sound rod, unbroken, allows you some options.

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When talking about saving a rod that has been broken the owner is not looking for weight reduction but to be able to restore a rod to good usable condition with the same action that it had before it broke. As Roger said I have repaired rods from the tip all the way to the split in the rear grips. Generally it is very difficult in the lower sections to even notice the repair and almost impossible to see in the butt end.

Clients repair for many reasons, a lot have an older rod that they have used for years and considerate it a favorite and would rather repair feeling it will give them back what they have had for many years. Others feel a proper repair is far less expensive than that $240 rod they stepped on and are pleased when it preforms as before.

When I do a repair I always ask my client to please tell me if it fails again for my own information. And to date no one has ever called me back on it. One guy did call to tell he broke it again as he hung up on a crab trap but it broke four inches above my repair.

Rod repair is not as glamours as custom building but it has opened many doors for me and I consider it an important part of my business.

Tom

I sometimes find I get more satisfaction from doing a repair or rebuild than I might if I built a rod from new parts. Happy Holidays all, Lynn

Tom, how long do you intend to make the oversleeve it self? For future reference. Lynn

Lynn, I will cut the sleeve about an inch and a quarter long. Then taper the ends for a nice smooth transition, the distance between the end of the tapers should leave me a one inch sleeve.

Tom

This is the first I've heard about fiberglass sleeves for repairing rods. Are these sleeves available for purchase somewhere or are they custom made?

Tim Goins Wrote:
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> This is the first I've heard about fiberglass
> sleeves for repairing rods. Are these sleeves
> available for purchase somewhere or are they
> custom made?

Tim If you go to the library at the top of this page and to the very last item is rod repair. it is an excellent article on repairing broken rods. In it you will find that if you use a graphite sleeve the rod will break right at the repair again. Fiberglass is more flexible and will bend according to the curve in the blank. I have never had a rod break at one of my repairs using this method.

The sleeves are made from fiberglass rods that I buy at flea markets for next to nothing. By having the whole fiberglass rod you have the ability to match the taper of the graphite rod exactly to the fiberglass sleeve. Generally I can get quite a few repairs out of one old rod. Just be certain that it is not a solid glass and I look for smooth rods, painted or not, they clean right up. Ugly sticks are not what I look for either. Hope this helps.

Tom