Spot on advice once again from the people on this site. I ran my little dehumidifier for a couple of days. Removed and re-wrapped the guides; leaving the holo wrap in front of the reel seat. After getting the space up to about 76 degrees, I put on two coats of flex coat lite on the guide wraps, about four hours apart, and it's looking good. No blush, no oil-on-water appearance.

Russel, I just read your suggestion on wet sanding. I sort of did this by accident yesterday. I really liked the way the holo wrap on this rod turned out; except for the blush that is, and I wanted to try to salvage it. Since it looked like the blush was all on the surface, I sanded with some 1200 grit, and then wiped it down with water. Applied a little heat to dry it, and put on a thin coat of fresh finish. I checked it this morning on the way to work, and it looks like I saved it.

Another couple of lessons, learned the hard way.

Once again, thanks to you guys.

yes Russell it might not be amine blush as it didn't went away with water cleaning. Might be the temperatures effects on the curing cycle. I am going to invest in a couple of heat lamps to focus radiant heat on the epoxy during the curing cycle.

Alistair,
Be careful on the use of heat lamps to avoid over heating things.

Normally, it takes very little heating to take care of issues.

Many folks who use rod heat boxes, use 2 or 3 25 watt bulbs in the boxes and it is more than enough heat to take care of issues.

Be safe

Alist air, I use an infrared lamp for this purpose. I made a mistake and bought a 150W lamp. Way to much energy for this application? This thing will make almost cured finish run like water. It is not a set it and walk away piece of gear. If and when it burns out, I will get a much lower power lamp.

I got 50W halogen basking lamps usually used in terrariums for reptiles. If placed 30 cm away the radiant heat generates temperatures beneath the lamp of around 80 degrees. One can play with this by moving the lamp further away or closer. I still have to experiment and in fact have an IR Thermometer which I will use to test the temperatures on the surface of the rod.

When I started working on rods I would work in an open shop. I noticed that often times I got a "blush". I would bring a rod from inside the house with was about 70F and it might be much warmer outside in the shop. I believe I was getting a slight condensation on the rod and to a degree, on the finish as it set up. Because the rod was cooler, I believe I got a type of condensation similar to the condensation you get on the outside of a glass with an icy beverage in the glass. Later I built an addition to my shop and had it heated and cooled. I now keep all my components around 70 to 75 degrees. I apply my finish at close to 75F. I have not had a case of "blush" since. I changed finish material but I really think that did not have anything to do with the "blush". It was a live and learn situation.

When I started working on rods I would work in an open shop. I noticed that often times I got a "blush". I would bring a rod from inside the house with a temp of about 70F. It it might be much warmer outside in the shop. I believe I was getting a slight condensation on the rod and to a degree, on the finish as it set up. Because the rod was cooler, I believe I got a type of condensation similar to the condensation you get on the outside of a glass with an icy beverage in the glass. Later I built an addition to my shop and had it heated and cooled. I now keep all my components around 70 to 75 degrees. I apply my finish at close to 75F. I have not had a case of "blush" since. I changed finish material but I really think that did not have anything to do with the "blush". It was a live and learn situation.