I built a spinning rod on a Lamiglas GLB 84 1M, what hey call a "Trout Rod" on the Outer Banks, I was going to use it for casting lures from Jetties in DE for Striped Ball - it has a fast action well suited for throwing metal and fishing live eels in the Inlet I fish - Indian River Inlet, where a lot of the action ifight up against the rocks, and it casts lures well too. Unfortunately it was the very first rod I ever wrapped, and I got the spacing wrong on the guides. I need to strip off the guides and re-wrap it. When I asked in another forum hot to do that best, I was told to heat the epoxy with a lighter to soften the epoxy, then use a a single edged razor blade to cut the thread off the guides and peel the epoxy off. I'm afraid to do that for fear of scoring the graphite blank, then having the blank fail where I cut the guides off. Is this really the best way to get the old guides off of it?
I contacted Lamiglas and they do not make that blank anymore, does anyone know of a 7 ft. blank that has a stiff and fast action like this blank? Lamiglas told me they replaced it with a 9 ft blank. I already have 2 custom wrapped 9 footers, for throwing jigs for Spanish and Blues, and want a 7 foot rod - anyone recommend a 7 foot blank with the same action? I'm afraid of scoring the rod blank and having it fail where I scored the blank.
Thanks -
Joe

I know very little about the GLB 84 1M, so i cannot comment about a suitable replacement. However, I remove and replace guides all the time and if you are careful it is easy to do with no problems. When cutting off the guide cut on the foot of the guide this prevents nicking or cutting the blank. You then peel back the wrappings and unwind them. Using the heat from a hair dryer will soften the epoxy and make it easier to remove both the tread and excess epoxy, and this does not cook your blank like cigarette lighter. Your fingernail works fairly well to remove the excess epoxy on the blank without scratching or removing the blank finish . You do not want to anything really sharp to remove the excess epoxy because it difficult not to scratch the finish. I use routinely use a piece of split bamboo for this. But there are other things that can be used.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2015 01:56PM by Norman Miller.

Thanks - I can get the threads on the feet of the guides easy enough, I'm having problems getting the epoxy and wrapping off that's just before and after the feet of a guide. I have a heat gun that cranks out hot air much hotter than a hair dryer, I'll try it and see if it works (carefully - it is REALLY hot!) I think there are at least 2 guides that can stay where they are. I am new to rod wrapping, and I had problems finding a guide tell me what spacing to use. Also, I don't know if this is right - I heard, or was told, that the biggest guide, I guess the would be the stripping guide, should be about the same diameter as the spool on my spinning reel - is that true? I have a couple of custom 9' "Mackerel" rods built by Bob Eakes at the Red Drum tackle store in Buxton NC (well, one from Red Drum, the other from Dillon's corner across the street) and they are made to throw metal jigs 1/2oz to 1.75oz a long way out for Spanish Mackerel in the surf, both have very fast actions, I find they are good for fishing live mullet from the beach also - and they both have huge stripping guides, easily the diameter, or more, of my Penn 4500 I use on them. (Using 8lb mono - going to use braid this coming spring I think) - and both rods can casta 1oz jig an easy 100 yards. The 7 footer I want to re-wrap has a much heavier butt section, and the action is very fast in the tip. I'll be casting plugs and live eels with it.
I'll give the heat gun a try.
Thanks! Know where I can find a reference on where to put the guides on the rod? The top of my reel seat is 18 1/2" from the butt of the rod.

The heat gun should work fine to soften the epoxy enough to scrape it off. If done carefully it will come off but do not worry about scratching the underlying rod finish, it is just finish and will not weaken the blank. Since you have been using this rod a lot it probably already has a number of scratches. You do not want to gouge into the graphite fibers with your scraper. So whatever scraper you are using, hold it at 90° to the blank so it will not cut into the blank. If your blank has just a clear coat on it you can give it a thin coat of perma gloss, if scratches bother you. Some people will remove all of the old finish by scrapping down to the bare graphite and then refinishing with a thin coat or two of perma gloss, but that is another project that you probably do not need to get into at this time.
As far a guide placement and sizes, the mudhole website has a number of PDF files concerning this. They can be found in the resources section of their menu. The Fuji concept guide placement manual found there may be of particular benefit to you. Also go to Angler Resources they give a lot of info and theory concerning guide placement as well as static testing, and this can be helpful. Hope this helps.
Norm

Try Mudhole for a similar blank, Todd@Mudhole.com is a gentleman who is well versed in all things Lamiglas.