I have question about cutting tag ends. I cant figure out the best way to cut a tag end flush when wrapping. I have tried a razor blade, exacto knife, and thread scissors. I talked to a veteran rod builder who makes a small space in the thread where the tag end is and then cuts the tag end in that space, but I find this very difficult on a three or four wrap trim band tag end. If anyone would like to share there technique or what they think is the best way to trim a tag end it would be much appreciated.

One of the methods I use is to secure one end of my tag thread with about 8 or 10 turns of my main wrap, then with about 5 turns left, I wrap in a tie off separate tie off loops. When the main wrap is complete I finish it off as usual with the first tie off loop. Then I complete the tag and complete it with the second tie off loop. It can be a little cumbersome to work with and around but it has worked well for me.

Mat I teach pulling on the tag end hard in one horizontal direction. Then using a single edge razor blade pull the tag into the blade. The trick to this technique is to not cut with the razor but rather pull the tag into the razor. If you do it right the end snaps back under the wraps and leaves no tag exposed. Don't know if that makes sense in writing? Practice will make it a lot easier and you will cut the wrong thread as you learn. Soon you will get it down though and will do it blind folded.

I have also done another method. Have not done in years but works like this. Say add the tie off 15 wraps in. Now pull the tag end thru say 5 wraps deep. Now cut the end that you want to end with and discard the rest. then pull the rest of the way and the tag is under the wrap with no tag showing ever. Again hard to explain but works.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/23/2015 03:47PM by billy broderick.

Tried every cutting tool/method heard of and never got it perfect everytime without a fuzzy nub once in awhile.

That is until I fingered out the best way to NOT create one in the first place. Now, one must have a tag at the end of a wrap but it is where you cut it that makes all the difference.

Put your pull loop in very early. Maybe double the turns you are used to put it in. When you complete the wrap cut the thread from the spool and run it thru the pull loop. pull the loop tight securing the tag and keeping the wrap tight but not completely out just up against the wrap or under the last wrap or two. Now that things are secure cut your tag very short next to the wrap and pull it under.
The pull loop comes out and the tag end remains underneath and no chance for a fuzzy nubbin sticking up.

One just NEEDS to get into the habit of putting the loop in early and NOT cutting the tag so long that it still comes out with the loop just leaving a tiny piece that is now a PIA to grab and cut off clean.

Raymond Adams
Eventually, all things merge, and a river runs through it..

After about the first year of wrapping rods, I figured that there must be a better way. One of the wrappers in the area, suggested a pair of good sharp fly tying scissors with a very fine tip and blades. That was many years ago, and I am still using the same pair of scissors. I always pull the tag end very tight, and trim tight to the wrap and generally there is little to no tag end sticking above the wrap. If necessary, a couple of passes with the burnisher will take care of the end.

I do sharpen my scissors about once a year, but that is all.

[www.drslick.com]

By using scissors, there is 0 chance of hitting a wrap with a blade and creating a situation that causes one to start over again.

Be safe

Ray that is what I was trying to explain exactly in the second post. much better explained.

I feel your pain for those hateful tags on a 3 or 4 turn trim band.

What Billy Broderick wrote in his first response works, and to which i would add a few thoughts. First, if you are not going for translucent wraps, you can lock in one end of the trim band under the main wrap and thereby eliminate one tag to trim, and decreasing the opportunity for a nasty tag end nub by 50%. Secondly the trim band needs to be really firmly wrapped, and I make certain the trim band is packed in its final position before trimming. Experiment with varying angles of attack of the cutting blade relative to the blank. Too low an angle or if the blade is not positioned exactly at the point the tag exits from under the band is a certain ticket to a tag end nub. Finally, blades dull with surprisingly little use, and a fresh blade seems to result in fewer nubs.

For the outside tag end (the tag end opposite the main wrap) it is possible to position the blade perpendicular to the blank, parallel and next to the outside turn and ever so gently rock the blade until the tag is cut. There is, obviously, a risk of damaging the blank using this technique, so practice on scrap before trying it on an expensive blank.

Donald,
Whenever I do a 2 or 3 turn wrap, I simply have the first tag under the main wrap by at least 12 wraps. I also put a pull string in at the same location and after completing the trim wrap, pull the tag end back under the main wrap by 12 wraps.

The wraps never come loose and no issue getting a nice flush trim on the tag end.

Be safe

Roger

Yours is the simplest solution yet.

I'm curious what you do when the wraps are translucent. Do you just not worry about the contrasting trim tag ends being visible? On second thought, if the main wrap is a darker hue than the trim band then maybe the tag ends ere not noticeable? Think I'll crank out a few test wraps.

Thanks for the tip.

Do al your work under as the rod is being fished That is all you can do if not using any CP to cover them

Bill - willierods.com

If you use scissors do not close the scissors blades, simply pull the tag end taut and slide the "V" of the slightly open scissors blades along the blank and into the taut thread. This is also the best way to cut the tying thread on the head of the fly you just finished. Don't "scissor" your scissors, push them into the thread.

I find a sharp pair of cuticle nippers to work well.

if it bothers you that much when you replace the damaged one - replace them all

Jon Hood