I've been working on a casting rod for a while, a little here and there in my spare time. I was excited to finish it last night, because it will be my first spiral wrapped rod.

I brushed all of my finish on, and it took me a while. It was a pretty thick coat near the butt/split grip section because the decal was giving me trouble (finish not wanting to stay on it)...Ended up going to bed at like 2 in the morning, but got everything covered good. Got up this morning to see that the dryer belt broke at some point during the night, and my finish had settled heavy on one side of the rod. I was pretty mad. I'm not sure when it happened, the finish must have set up some before because it's still all covered. But was planning on doing 2 coats anyways, so now I need to figure out how to get rid of the heavy side/droop/bulge that was in the down position when the belt broke.

Any ideas? Can i trim it off with razor and sand, and if so what do I sand with for a clear finish? The 2nd coat should level out the irregularities if I can get it close right? I have no idea how to take care of this. lots of work for a mechanical error of all things....

Thanks guys.
Brandon Tipps

A sanding block and some 400 grit should do it. Take your time and be sure not to get into the thread or decal. The second coat should shine it up.

Hi Brandon,

You can certainly trim and sand, or just carefully trim by itself. You can also use a nice, new, clean file. No oils or metal filings. Whichever method you choose, you want to ensure your tools are clean, and of good quality, to minimize any foreign objects such as sandpaper grit or the above mentioned impurities from being introduced to your finish.

You can do a lot to finish, and it will cover up, as long as there is no oil or silicone contamination, or grit to show. Just go slow, and take small amounts off at a time.

Take care,

Chris

Suggestion
Next time cover the guides -- then mix a new batch for the butt thread and decal area You will have a nice flowing finish

Bill - willierods.com

bill boettcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Suggestion
> Next time cover the guides -- then mix a new batch
> for the butt thread and decal area You will have a
> nice flowing finish


That will stop a belt from breaking? I had no idea that would solve a belt breakage issue, good to know.

Depending on heavy the sag is, you can slice, file or otherwise shave it down a bit to save on sanding time. Once sanding I'd start with 320 grit on a sanding block to get things pretty close to level. Finish that up with 400 grit wet/dry paper on a sanding block (you can use it dry) and once it's level for the most part spin the lathe and sand around the entire circumference a bit with the 400. Switch to 600 for a bit to finish up. Do NOT wipe the surface with any sort of solvent. Just blow or dust off the sanding debris if necessary. Re-coat lightly with your epoxy and you should be just fine.

...................

Brandon,
Just as part of routine maintenance, check the belts for signs of aging or cracking.

Always keep a spare belt on hand for all of your machines.

Another thing that I generally do, is to keep an eye on the finish for at least the first hour. Normally, after the first hour for many finish types, the finish will have cured enough to not sag if the dryer stops.

Be safe

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Brandon,
> Just as part of routine maintenance, check the
> belts for signs of aging or cracking.
>
> Always keep a spare belt on hand for all of your
> machines.
>
> Another thing that I generally do, is to keep an
> eye on the finish for at least the first hour.
> Normally, after the first hour for many finish
> types, the finish will have cured enough to not
> sag if the dryer stops.
>
> Be safe

Thanks. I have an extra belt on hand, but after I got it all on I had to get in bed. I need to do my finishing in normal hours next time for sure.

Thanks for all the advice. I'll probably slice the heavy sag areas off, then sand w/ fine grit. Hopefully I can make it look good. Kind of looks stupid the way it is now, but my guides sure are straight! lol

OK
Next time have another belt handy always buy two or even three
And
Always babysit a blank until it is ready to come off the dryer Put the finish on in the morning so you can babysit it Or on a day when you can
Like said always check your equipment so nothing will break
Some thing I always do is after a rod is done I take the belt off so it is not under constant stretch

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/11/2015 02:55PM by bill boettcher.

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Brandon,
> Just as part of routine maintenance, check the
> belts for signs of aging or cracking.
>
> Always keep a spare belt on hand for all of your
> machines.
>
> Another thing that I generally do, is to keep an
> eye on the finish for at least the first hour.
> Normally, after the first hour for many finish
> types, the finish will have cured enough to not
> sag if the dryer stops.
>
> Be safe

Roger, again this is only go advice if you add some more details. I know I would never get by with one hour and not have sagging. My environment (basement) is too cool to get that kind of results. You must be working in higher temps, using a drying box or adding addition heat some how then I do to get no sag after one hour of rotating.

Please elaborate with more details for those that you are trying to help out.

Thanks

Best solution would be a beltless motorized dryer, then the only worrry would be a power failure unless you have a battery backup system

Ron Weber

Ron,
Or, you can have a motor failure.

Perhaps if one really worried about this issue, one could install a motion sensor that would set off an alarm - if the dryer stopped turning.

Be safe

I feel that a motor failure is less likely to fail than a belt. I have had a couple of belts fail, but never lost a motor so far. Although mine rarely run for more than 3 hours at a time since they are on a timer. From my first dryer motor ( a commercial rotisserie motor over 40 years ago to now with many other versions, so far never encountered an issue. Although there is always a first time

I had a small DC motor failed on me that was a direct connection to the rod chuck.

Sometimes a belt and sometimes the motor.

accidents will happen no matter what you , as for belts breaking

#1 keep an eye on it during the drying time like every couple of hrs.

# 2 check the belt over about 1 or 2 times a year for cracks in it , that is about all you can do

# 3 go direct drive on the motor

pass this it is in some other's hands

William Sidney
AK