I have a 7" cork grip that I would like to cut down to 6.5" prior to installation on an ultra lightweight fly rod blank. Can anyone offer tips on how to make the cut (at the top because the bottom is cutout for the reel seat) and then sand down the edge so that it is rounded a bit. What to use for the cut and then what grit sandpaper, and any other tips appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Do you have the ability to mount this on a mandrel or dowel and turn it in a lathe, drill press, or hand drill? Turning the grip makes it a lot easier to do this kind of work as compared to doing it by hand.

You could take a wood dowel, build up masking tape so the grip fits on snugly, and mount it in a hand drill. Clamp the drill gently to a bench or in a vise so you have both hands free, then with the grip turning cut it to length and then work the new end with sandpaper up through the grades to fine.

Mike,
I would not cut the grip where the reel seat is located. Rather, I would do the trimming from the other end of the grip. I do cutting like this on my lathe; as John P pointed out.
If you cut off a butt cap, after doing the trimming, then glue it back onto the butt of the rod

I do all trimming like you mention using a chop saw with an abrasive cut off wheel on the saw rather than a blade. Nice smooth square end cut.

Be safe

I should have mentioned that this is for a fly rod so the cut would be on the top end of the grip. What about using a dremmel with a thin abrasive cutting wheel? I would envision having the handle secured in the lathe to allow both hands to use the cutting tool. This seems like it would make a clean cut.

If you have a lathe, just use a razor knife, then lightly sand the end.

Ron Weber

I think you will be disappointed with any cutting method that does not turn the grip. Turning assures a square cut. This kind of work is a piece of cake if you have a drill press with a couple different size ball bearings mounted in a 3/4 thickness small board that can be clamped onto the drill press base. The bearings cost only a few bucks each, get a 1/4 and a 5/16 I.D., or even a 3/8 too if you will be using 3/8 mandrels. Mount the part on a mandrel of proper size (for this stuff any reasonable quality rod will work fine), chuck the top after putting the lower end of the mandrel through a bearing. This is very stable and accurate for turning cork and other softer materials like reel seat shims. If you try to turn a piece as long as a grip without stabilizing the both ends of the piece you are setting yourself up for a very dangerous operation. Don't even try!

This will allow you to work just on the front of the grip without cutting it and regluing the ring with the recess back on.

Start with about 100 and work toward whatever grit gives you the finish you want. Last step would be to do the whole grip with your finest grit to make the whole length of the grip look and feel the same.

The setup described here is very versatile and accurate and is what I use for all turning of longer parts, from cork to Riley's foam to reel seat shims. With proper design of the parts front and rear ramps + butt knob can be turned from one piece without remounting. The heart of it is the drill press, a tool everyone needs in their shop for many jobs outside of rodbuilding.