This is occurring when applying the resin, the bench is completely level. I checked everything and it happens constantly. They could help me on what to do?





It would be the centrifugal force?

You're applying too much finish. Put on less for starters.

................

How many coats do I apply?

Yes too much finish
Put you finish on -- then stop the turner and take off excess from any drips you will get Hand turn 180 several times and remove any more drips
Then start the turner again

Bill - willierods.com

Eliseu, the number of applications will vary depending on factors like type of finish, amount applied, etc.. There is no standard number. I apply several very thin coats where some builders prefer fewer and slightly heavier applications. You should consider practicing on a scrap piece of rod blank until you have determined what works best for you and the type of finish that works best for you.

Jeff

This one was very good, could see the video and tell me if I'm doing something wrong?

[www.youtube.com]

I would stop short of saying you're doing anything wrong and simply say that there may be better ways to do what you want to do. You may also find that you have more control by apply finish under hand power, rather than applying it while the rod is in a mechanical turner.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

.............................

Thank you my friends. Muito obrigado meus amigos.

IMHO, too much epoxy + too much heat = sagging epoxy.

Eliseu,

I have had similar results when testing thread from one company. There was so much silicon oil on the thread that the epoxy seemed to grow legs and mound up in one location. Are you using a polyester thread or other sewing thread?

Don Becker

if you apply the epoxy at one time an don't keep going back an touching it up, then stop an get the drips as directed above , I have found out that I get a smoother finish all around ,
if I don't go back an try to touch it up, it don't go well for me if I do that , , an if you apply at a fast RPM I like about 30 to 40 RPM some even go faster , brush never touches the wrap ,
you kind of drip it on from the brush or from the tool you are using, don't know if this will help but I hope , don't give up some of the people here on this forum do it for a living, an do lots of rods,
an it will come in time for a smooth finish I think

William Sidney
AK

Eliseu,

What kind of thread finish are you using?

good info already posted. I use threadmaster lite and apply two coats using a strip of cut plastic card, not a brush. i create 2-3 strips of varying width. the first coat is thin enough to see and feel the individual threads when dry to the touch. the second coat is the same but finishes up smooth.

i have used the method of applying heat with a lighter but i hold my flame to the side of the blank. most of the heat is traveling upwards and the sidewise heat is less and just enough to burst any air trapped within.

although most apply finish by rotating the blank by hand, i too use a motor, with mine turning around 16rpm. when i used a 6rpm motor, it took to long and the finish would begin to set by the time i reach the end of the blank. but then i'm also wrapping 9 foot fly rods. i often start at the butt end, at the grip. by the time i reached the tip, i use to find the same result you showed in your photos. the combination of less finish and faster rpm helped.

eric
fresno, ca.

Donald Becker Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Eliseu,
>
> I have had similar results when testing thread
> from one company. There was so much silicon oil on
> the thread that the epoxy seemed to grow legs and
> mound up in one location. Are you using a
> polyester thread or other sewing thread?

Use a NCP prowarp.

eric zamora Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Eliseu,
>
> What kind of thread finish are you using?
>
> good info already posted. I use threadmaster lite
> and apply two coats using a strip of cut plastic
> card, not a brush. i create 2-3 strips of varying
> width. the first coat is thin enough to see and
> feel the individual threads when dry to the touch.
> the second coat is the same but finishes up
> smooth.
>
> i have used the method of applying heat with a
> lighter but i hold my flame to the side of the
> blank. most of the heat is traveling upwards and
> the sidewise heat is less and just enough to burst
> any air trapped within.
>
> although most apply finish by rotating the blank
> by hand, i too use a motor, with mine turning
> around 16rpm. when i used a 6rpm motor, it took to
> long and the finish would begin to set by the time
> i reach the end of the blank. but then i'm also
> wrapping 9 foot fly rods. i often start at the
> butt end, at the grip. by the time i reached the
> tip, i use to find the same result you showed in
> your photos. the combination of less finish and
> faster rpm helped.
>
> eric
> fresno, ca.


Thanks for the information, use NCP prowarp

Many thanks to everyone who helped me and spent their tips, very grateful. Forgive me English but I am Brazilian, I live in Brazil, Rio de Janeiro.

Regards to all. Eliseu Cherene.