I installed a Mud Hole custom decal (peel & stick type) for the first time. I followed the correct procedure, using Scotch tape to handle the decal and avoiding contact with my fingers. I applied it directly to the blank and put a coat of Pro Kote finish over it. After some minutes of drying the decal bottom edge started to lift and peel away from the blank :(

I think I will leave it to dry and after 24hrs use a razor to fix the finish and then recoat. However any ideas that might help me avoid this problem ? Will applying water based CP over the decal before the finish help ? Or should I install the decal over a coat of finish rather than directly on the blank ? I need to find some way to make sure the edges stick tightly to the blank.

Generally I always apply a coat of CP over any decal. The epoxy stays "wet" for longer than most CPs or spray fixatives, which gives it more time to undermine the decal adhesive. Sealing those edges with CP or similar tends to prevent this.

You can also "clamp" the decal to the blank by winding D or E thread over it, under snug tension, allowing that to set for a few hours, then removing the thread.

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I was having the same problems at one point with those decals (on and off issues of lifting, my thought was too much moisture/humidity in the air). On certain blanks and applications of the decals I now use Krylon Fusion Clear Gloss right over the decal and surrounding area. Or like Tom stated, when in doubt use the clamping method. Good luck on the next one! ;)

I've never used their decals but i always apply my Decal Connection decals over a coat of finish. Haven't had one lift yet.

Thanks guys. Do you think I will be able to fix with a blade ? Would you wait for it to harden well before trimming the problem with the blade ?

I eliminated this problem by first putting a thin coat of epoxy on the blank, and putting the decal on just after the epoxy has set up. In my case, putting the decal on in the morning after epoxying the evening before.

Re CP, do you apply it over the whole decal or just on the edges ? Re clamping, do you mean wrapping the whole area just like a guide wrap, leave it for some hours and then remove thread and apply finish ?

Mine did the same thing even after following Mudhole's directions. The next time I will lay it down on the first coat of finish instead of right on the blank.

I've also found that wrapping the decal around a dowel rod or a sharpie pen (or something round) for a week or so prior to application will "train" the decal that it is going to go on a circular surface. Put a few rubber bands around it to hold it in place. Seems to help some....but not always.

I think many builders underestimate how important it is to really rub the decal hard with a tool like a thread burnishing tool. Especially at the edges. Use a sheet of paper to prevent scuffing of the decal. An easy way to get the same effect as wrapping the decal with thread to be taken off later is to put a piece of paper onto the blank over the decal, then tightly wrap it with electrical tape, really stretching the tape. This puts a lot of pressure uniformly onto the decal. Leave it overnight, then remove.

Alistair, I use CP just at the edges of the decal. Yes, Tom meant to wrap the whole area of the decal with thread, just like a guide wrap, removing after letting it set overnight. If you put the decal onto a coat of wrap finish like some recommend, then be sure to make your wraps just as tight as a guide wrap. The wrap finish is softer than the blank and could allow small "ridges" to form if not done well. I personally think that Tom has it right with stating that epoxy stays fluid so long relative to CP that it has time to attack the adhesive. A fast drying protectant at the edge, like CP or fixative prevents this. Also, really burnish the decal onto the surface as mentioned above.

thanks very much Michael!

Decal Connection would be happy to help you with your decal needs. You may call or email us 931-436-5021 or orders@decalconnection.com Thank you Debbie