Hey guys I'm having some issues with epoxy. I am currently using pro kote high build and when I use this epoxy on white blanks it yellows very quickly I have several rods that have turned yellow after just two or three trips when the sun is out. My question is what is the best epoxy that yellows the slowest. I order some flex coat UV to try out any opinions would be great. Also is there any alternatives to epoxy over labels on white blanks.

Permagloss or an Auto Clear
The Lumiseal should be better Permagloss is hot and CP should be used first

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2015 09:46AM by bill boettcher.

All the epoxies are going to amber/yellow to some extent. Nature of the beast I'm afraid.

If you can utilize a product such as Lumaseal or PermaGloss, you'll find them to stay perfectly clear. But they don't offer the same build/appearance as epoxy.

................

Matthew,
You could use yellow thread on your white blank and then the epoxy would blend in.

Be safe

I recall a test being performed where all the epoxies were mixed and poured out on a glass surface and allowed to level. They were set outside in the sun for a period of time. The epoxies that yellowed the least among those tested were pro kote and threadmaster.

There were two tests done as I remember, the one that ProKote did and where their finish yellowed the least, and the one that Threadmaster did where their finish yellowed the least.

James Newsome Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> There were two tests done as I remember, the one
> that ProKote did and where their finish yellowed
> the least, and the one that Threadmaster did where
> their finish yellowed the least.


James,

The test results I am referring to was from a test done by a well known rodbuilder in an independent manner. The test was done in a Northern climate and sunlight patterns.

I would tend to have more confidence in these results than any results reported by manufacturers in their advertising.

Someone in a Southern climate may experience different yellowing rates among the various products. Also, any reformulated products since that test a few years ago may achieve different results.

In my experience Flex Coat yellowed very quickly and ProKote performed the best.

Was that the Flexcoat UV the new stuff That I like The old syuff does yellow fast

Bill - willierods.com

In all independent tests that I have seen the ProKote yellowed the least.

_______________________________
God Bless, Don Morse

800-516-1750 ext. 1207 / don@americantackle.us

Rod Building..... It's What We Do.

bill boettcher Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Was that the Flexcoat UV the new stuff That I like
> The old syuff does yellow fast


Bill,

To the best of my recollection the Flex Coat product tested was the original non-UV formula.

Got a few rods in the salt Going to see if I can get to check them and see if they yellowed
Thanks

ProCoat -- Hmmmm Got to try that

Bill - willierods.com

This is a thread on how quickly various epoxies yellow over time. Yellowing is not the only factor one should consider to find the epoxy that bests suits their needs. Some other things to consider are properties like:

1) how hard the cured finish is - a soft finish like Pro Coat used on an underwrap will allow top threads to dig into the finish making packing of threads more difficult. Soft finishes, compared to harder finishes, are less durable on rods that see really heavy use or abuse.

2) how flexible the cured finish is - a hard finish that does not flex well will experience cracking and premature failure on rods that have small radius of bend when loaded (fast / extra fast actions)

3) how easily the products mixes up

4) how easily the product releases microbubbles

5) adequate pot life

6) cure time

7) film thickness without sagging

8) self leveling qualities

These are probably some more. Each epoxy is a balance of these kinds of factors, there is no one best product that does it all. These properties are not meant to be in any order either; each person may find factors that are more important to them. If you've been using a product and are getting good results stick with it, why change? I'd only consider changing products if you can't get one to do what you want or need it to do. Every epoxy has a learning curve to get the best you can from it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 06/02/2015 09:51AM by John E Powell.

JOHN & TOM

Amen, Brother. Could not have said it better myself.

"Nature of the Beast"

"Yellowing is not the only factor one should consider to find the epoxy that bests suits their needs."

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I believe that most are mentioning and making reference to the standard Pro Kote Finish, not the Hi-Build.

Bob McKamey
Mud Hole Custom Tackle
bobm@mudhole.com

Bob is correct. Being as the ProKote Hi build has an accelerated cure rate it is going to yellow faster. I still find that the regular ProKote yellows less than any other 2 part 1-1 epoxy finish.

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

I ran these durability/yellowing tests on blanks i covered in thread, various finishes and then put in my backyard Memphis TN.
Some have been out there 5 years now.
If you use enough CP permagloss stays the most clear but your thread will be very faded even with CP.
I even used non rod building finishes like Delft water based.

Of the epoxies what worked best for me was Threadmaster Lite.

I have been doing tests on my wooden rod handle finishes.
Epiphanes is now what i coat my wooden handles with.
Or PG if the result looks OK but the richness of color from Epiphanes just does it for me so that is what i use.
Your milage will vary by climate, sun etc.

You may want to do this yourself as you will also see what 110 summers and minus 20 winter can do to your glue up process.
And wraps on guides.
Well i learnt a lot from it but i may just have started out more dumb.

Oh and none of them are squirell proof.