there you go again, Randolph, bringing reason and practicality to the discussion. :-)

No Don
Just the science of the metals and things that can happen to them if not preped correctly
Don't think I will ever go that far with guide feet Just try to cover completely

Bill - willierods.com

Hi Bill,

The difference in time is minimal.

I will take things to the next level when time permits. For now, I will continue to ensure good epoxy penetration into the thread and around the guides.

My next builds will be tournament rods initially and used as fishing rods later. They should not be critical for corrosion.

For the long term I will probably buy a 1" wide x 30" belt sander either from Sears or Harbor Freight and set it next to my grinding wheel. It should be a matter of only grinding a few guide feet and turning on the belt sander to add a polish with 220 or 320 grit.

Don

Don Becker

Don, I do all but the largest guides using a dremel tool with sanding disks. Although I have large hands and fingers, I can hold guides, including snake and single foot guides, and get just the right taper. I only use my belt sander for the largest. Wear a face shield with the belt sanders. I had a belt separate once and slapped me right in the face. Learned my lesson that time!!

Hi Randolph,

I have a dremel tool. My hands are big, old, and clumsy. 95% of the use of the dremel tool is to break in fishing reel bearings.

What grit disks are you using with the dremel tool and are you getting any polish to the finish? Sears does sell belts up to 400 grit. I have seen posts stating 180 grit as satisfactory to polish stainless steel.

Thank you for the reminder about safety. I have been lax in that area.

Don

Don Becker

Hi Don, most of the time I use the 220 grit and on some larger feet go to a 120. I have Cratex wheels that if needed, I can give a bit of polish. I ain't no spring chicken either (71). My wife reminds me of that just about daily. ;>)

Ha, you're closer to 40 than I am!

Thanks for the info.

Don

Don Becker

I have to side with Mike. Rod builders do things to stainless that any decent welder knows better. 316/316L costs a good deal more. Nobody would pay the price if it didn't have better corrosion porperties. My experiences suggest it isn't even close in extreme environments. Important part is the quality of the passivation/pickling. Not all 304 or 316 is equal. In this sense I'd be inclined to trust Fuji more.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.