I built a switch rod grip on the blank, but discovered the uppermost 3 " has a small amount of movement when I put a little side torque on it. I gather I somehow must not have gotten enough epoxy onto the blank at that section. I don't want it to get worse, and I don't want to strip everything off and re-do it. I wondering if I can poke a syringe down through the winding check and squirt something like crazy glue in to tighten up the bond. Any suggestions?

G'Day Rick I had one like that a few years ago & how I overcame the problem was to put a slit in the grip on the underside where it wouldn't be noticed & then with a syringe I injected some 5 min epoxy thinned slightly I think with Acetone .As soon as I finished with the epoxy I wrapped some masking tape around the slit & pulled it tight & then over wrapped that with twine & when dry removed all the wrapping & could hardly notice the slit .I just gave it a quick sand .As good as new & still going .

Regards Baz

Bundeena
NSW Australia

I saw an article or video where someone replaced a damaged cork ring. After cutting out the damaged area a new ring was sized then cut on one si.de The new ring was placed in hot water until it could be stretched over the blank and epoxied into place.
My thought is you can do the same.
Find the loosest area, remove one ring, inject epoxy, then replace with a new fitted cork ring. Wrap the patch in a paper towel then tape or clamp etc.
I wouldn't put tape directly on the cork for fear of pulling out any filler, in the cork, when the tape is removed.

I think your original suggestion will work fine if you use a real medical syringe, get them inexpensively at any drug store. Ask for the biggest needle size. I would stick the empty syringe in first to check to see if it will clog with the cork. If it does, clean it out and stick it in repeatedly until it is not clogged when it comes out. Then slowly inject liquid epoxy. I don't think you will have to thin it. Then fill the hole, If there is one, which should be indetecable exc for the closest scrutiny.

By doing it in this sequence, if it doesn't work you can go more aggressive, but I don't think you will have to remove rings.

I expect you're going to get more posts by builders who have fixed this problem, so you might want to wait a while before working on the rod.

One suggestion on gluing back together a grip that you have "sliced" the long way for whatever reason.
If you want to protect the grip if it is cork, just wrap a piece of paper around it, and then wrap with plastic electrical tape.
if you put a good amount of tension on it while wrap it will slightly stretch and help pull the opening (slice) back together again.
Try to make sure that you do not have epoxy squeeze out and have a ridge after you remove the tape and paper.
On EVA, we just directly wrap the plastic electrical tape around it.
Either way you may have some epoxy to sand off after it has cured, but the slit should be barely noticeable.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Drill a small hole the size if an epoxy syringe through the cork, preferable the bottom of the grip, of the affected area. You'll know when you've reached the blank. Mix some epoxy, I use the two part flexcoat for handles, and pull the plunger from the syringe and fill it from the top. Fit the syringe tip in the hole of the handle and force the epoxy in. It will fill the void and should seep out the top of the grip. mix a little cork dust up with some glue and fill the hole. No need to cut any rings.

Bingo - You win LOL
Devcon if I remember is a thinner epoxy which will help to flow into the area And it is strong

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/18/2015 04:28PM by bill boettcher.

Some excellent suggestions!
Seems simplest to try to inject liquid epoxy in, possibly having to drill/enlarge the hole if needed. I'll give that a try. Failing that, I may have to try replacing rings, etc.
I now have a plan....Thanks for your help !!

can you slide the winning check foreward and then inject ??

Bill - willierods.com

I made that same repair recently.
I am sure there are several ways to skin this cat, this is what worked for me:

I drilled a small hole through the cork to the void (3/64). Very carefully......
Mixed up some epoxy finish (D2) and warmed it until it was water-thin. It took about 30 seconds with a hair dryer.
Quickly filled a syringe & injected the void full of the epoxy.
I stuffed a small chunk of cork into the hole & stuck the rod on the turner to try to prevent leakage (worked well).

This worked surprisingly well. And there there is no evidence of the issue remaining. It was fairly quick & easy.

Good idea on warming, doesn't change the chemistry.

I'll try moving the winding check, or drilling through to open an avenue for the epoxy.

I looked up "Devcon Liquid Epoxy" and was surprised to read it is "not exportable from the USA" (???) I'm in Canada. Any suggestions for another type?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2015 11:23AM by rick humphrey.

They used to sell it at Home Depot ?? I am sure one of the suppliers have some thing to work

Bill - willierods.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/19/2015 11:35AM by bill boettcher.

After re-reading my post I should say you want to use a drill bit just a little smaller than the opening that the epoxy comes out of the syringe. Makes for a tighter seal.
Heating the epoxy is the best way to get a better flow and retain integrity. I tried a needle from a syringe I got from my veterinarian and it had a pretty large opening but took more force than the plunger would stand, probably plugged with cork on insertion.

As Bill said go to your local Big Box store they should have what you want , [ Home depot ., Lows , Ace , or Walmart ] you should have one of them or something like it ,
or a store like it, if you use heat to thin it also speeds up the set time , so play around with scrap to see what time you will have to work on it

William Sidney
AK

Here's an update:

I drilled two holes on opposite sides, at right angles to the blank, one to inject glue, the other to relieve air pressure. I went into a burnt cork accent ring to just touching the blank, then finished with a bodkin. The hole dia was just smaller than the syringe tip to ensure a tight fit. I then mixed Flexcoat epoxy, heated it with a hair dryer, pulled it into a FC syringe, then quickly injected it into the hole until it backed up.
I pushed burnt cork sanding dust into the holes, just above the grip surface (I'll sand flush once dry), hung the rod up on my rack and waited a day. I just checked the grip...I'll be damned... IT WORKED !!

Thanks for the great advice guys...much appreciated !!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/01/2015 09:31PM by rick humphrey.

rick humphrey Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Here's an update:
>
> I drilled two holes on opposite sides, at right
> angles to the blank, one to inject glue, the other
> to relieve air pressure. I went into a burnt cork
> accent ring to just touching the blank, then
> finished with a bodkin. The hole dia was just
> smaller than the syringe tip to ensure a tight
> fit. I then mixed Flexcoat epoxy, heated it with a
> hair dryer, pulled it into a FC syringe, then
> quickly injected it into the hole until it backed
> up.
> I pushed burnt cork sanding dust into the holes,
> just above the grip surface (I'll sand flush once
> dry), hung the rod up on my rack and waited a day.
> I just checked the grip...I'll be damned... IT
> WORKED !!
>
> Thanks for the great advice guys...much
> appreciated !!

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