As finish penetrates the thread, bubbles form on the surface - even when finish is mixed with near zero bubbles. Any ideas on reducing, or eliminating this? Also - do you see more bubbles with larger thread - say size C or D compared to size A?

Thanks - Marc

Keep it simple - that's all I can handle!

Marc

With heavier thread or under wraps you will have more air escaping the thread. Two options, thin the finish (if it is Flex Coat use acetone at a 1:15 ratio once mixed) and/or use a heat gun or torch to pop the bubbles.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I used to use a propane torch but I recently switched to a refillable butane handheld torch. It fits my hand better. Move very quickly, don't linger as you'll burn the epoxy. How fast? Imagine the blank you're about to heat is your finger... run the torch back and forth fast enough that you wouldn't burn your finger. All the bubbles will disappear (recheck as some may reform later on).

Don't be tempted to go with one of the old school alcohol torches. While I'm an old school kind of guy, that's one tool that belongs in the past. They are potentially just too dangerous. There's been more than one guy who set their house on fire because of an accident with one. And while you house and contents are replaceable, do you really want the alcohol to spill on you with the flame lit?

The handheld torches are so much safer.

Personally, I think the moderators of the various forums should delete any post that recommends the use of an alcohol torch. It should be forbidden to recommend it. (okay, stepping down off my soapbox)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/09/2015 12:38PM by John E Powell.

Gotta watch the FlexCoat video and do pretty much exactly as they do. It's really that simple.

High Speed, light coats, no bubbles, no issues.

I wish I figured it out sooner.

Good luck!

Here is a link to that video:

[www.flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

i would guess you are using high build Use the light It flows better and will release bubbles easier

That is why I thin my flexcoat UV high build Two thin coats For me works well

Bill - willierods.com

There are 2 kinds of bubbles in epoxy. The little ones that look like dust, and larger single ones that form on the surface, which is what i think you are talking about. I found these bubbles form more often when the epoxy is warm and the rod blank/thread is cold. I suppose the epoxy heats the blank, air expands and bubbles to the surface. This happens to me sometime during the night on the rod dryer. I wake to see these little "pimples" on the surface. if you shave them off the next coat goes on great and you will never be able to find where they were.

Here is what I use, it works well. It has adjustable flame and is very easy to control on applying heat.

[t.homedepot.com]

Tom

I completely agree with John, Alcohol Burners are very dangerous and should never be recommended on this forum.
Have you tried a bubble buster?

Bill

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

Bill,
I have to say that I use an alcohol burner nearly every day.

However, I do NOT use an alcohol burner for bubble busting, but rather, for applying rod tips with hot melt tip cement.

For this purpose, the alcohol is the perfect solution.

Of course the burner has a flame. Treat the burner in the same way that you would treat any thing that has a flame. Just use common sense with the burner, as you would with any appliance that has a flame.

For bubble busting, I use a heat gun. No flame, easy to control and it works very very well.

Be safe

X2 Roger. I use one everyday to apply rod tips and Also to put guide foot adhesive on guide feet. Works beautiful.

However, I got rid of the old glass type bottle long ago and use the bottle like thread epoxy comes in. It has a very good seal and the cap go on very securly. It also has weighted balls in the bottom to assure it stays upright. Never have had any issues.

Tom



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/10/2015 01:45PM by Tom Wewerka.

Well to each their own, personally, I am against using them. Bubble Buster works just fine for me.

Ohio Rod Builders

Canton, Ohio

I bet guys who recently set their houses on fire as a result from alcohol lamp mishaps thought they were very safe too.

It's not so much the normal expected use, as it is the unexpected accident. Liquid fuels indoor are simply a very bad idea, no matter what container they are stored or used from, especially since there are so many safer options that work equally well.

Consider this simple fact. To store flammable liquids indoors at my job, the insurance company actually send an inspector out unannounced to spot check us to ensure that we're storing them in the approved flame retardant storage cabinet. They do it because insurance statistics show accidents happen when we take handling and storage of flammable liquids indoors for granted.

I have a question for those who use the alcohol lamp for tips or guide feet adhesive. What purpose does using the alcohol lamp provide that a simple candle could not do just as well? A broad-based wax candle, with it's yellow flame, is far safer for heating adhesives than a nearly invisible alcohol flame. There's no "dirty flame" contamination concern for these purposes. In 36 years of rodbuilding I tipped a lit candle over once and didn't immediately notice I had done so. It fell to a concrete floor. Resulting damage, a dented candle and about 1 teaspoon of solidified wax droplets spread out over 2 sq foot of floor. When I discovered the candle a minute later when I turned around, it was lit lying on the floor. I'm very confident if an alcohol lamp fell to the floor in a similar manner I would have needed to use a fire extinguisher or worse.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/12/2015 01:07PM by John E Powell.

John E Powell Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I bet guys who recently set their houses on fire
> as a result from alcohol lamp mishaps thought they
> were very safe too.
>
> It's not so much the normal expected use, as it is
> the unexpected accident. Liquid fuels indoor are
> simply a very bad idea, no matter what container
> they are stored or used from, especially since
> there are so many safer options that work equally
> well.
>
> Consider this simple fact. To store flammable
> liquids indoors at my job, the insurance company
> actually send an inspector out unannounced to spot
> check us to ensure that we're storing them in the
> approved flame retardant storage cabinet. They do
> it because insurance statistics show accidents
> happen when we take handling and storage of
> flammable liquids indoors for granted.


Good point John