I have a couple of questions. When doing a small open cross wrap, do you put cp on just the thread or around the whole blank? I went around the whole blank and the epoxy is pulling away from itself in some spots. Is this what you guys call fish eyes? I was able to fix most of it. Might try another coat of epoxy tomorrow. Using cromaseal and prokote medium build.

Actually it's lookin a little worse now. Definitely not leveling out. Thought I might have applied too much so I took some off with my brush but it's still pulling away.

Gonna do some practice stuff on an old rod. I have thread master also and some prokote high build on order that I was gonna try for tiger wrap base layers. Probably should have started by doing this but it's hard to resist jumping right in.

Tim,
this isn't an epoxy problem. You have contamination on the surface where you applied it.

Todd

Regards,
Todd Vivian
Mud Hole Custom Tackle

todd@mudhole.com

If the first coat is repelling the second, then you either have something bad on the surface as Todd said, or the first coat has cured to the point where you no longer have an acceptable surface upon which to apply the second. Smooth, shiny surfaces can tend to repel finish.

................

Applied cp yesterday and let dry overnight. Applied epoxy this morning. Room temp 70f. The only place that's having the issue is where the blank is exposed(also has the cp applied to it). The solid wraps that hold cross in place are doing fine. Also applied a first coat of epoxy to the butt wrap(tiger) cp applied to it day before yesterday. No problems there. Contamination is a good possibility as the room needs a good dusting. I cleaned the wrap area of the blank with denatured alcohol before applying the wrap and cp.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/26/2015 10:49AM by Tim Waddell.

Tim, despite it sounding like a good idea, and scores of guys doing it for years, cleaning with DNA/solvent immediately prior to applying epoxy is a bad step. Perhaps a good tech./lab grade would be fine but the average stuff these days has a lot of impurities. I'll admit to using acetone many years ago when working with teak (so I'm guilty too). For rods I find it hard to beat good old soap and hot water. I just take the blank in the shower before wrapping.

Second, you mention dusting. Stay far away from most furniture polish!!!!!

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

If you can hit the spots with a gray scoff pad ( no wash ) wipe off with a papertowel dry even a soft brush carfull of the thread
Put on another coat of finish If you see it pulling away try adding more baby sit it

Bill - willierods.com

X10 on Bill's comments on the use of the gray scuff pad. It works.

Rather than using alcohol to clean off the thread before applying finish, I use the low tack blue masking tape to tack off any dust.

I do make a point of doing a very good job of cleaning a rod blank before starting a build. I prefer to use Simple Green cleaner for this task. It does an excellent job of degreasing and for other cleaning chores.

As others have said, you likely had some sort of oil on the blank that is causing your issue.

Be safe

When I started to build rods I used to get crazy Wash this make sure this is set just so -- Reading this board
Things went so - so Then I started to say What the Hay I am lucky if I wash a blank now I wipe them off with a paper towel Good to go
Played with finish O Gee clean this watch this
heck then it was The heck with it --- And things came out a lot better when I did not worry about every little thing
Just started to go with a heavy finish -- Not good - You will only cover so much and you will - Or shoud put another thin coat on to cover Bo Bos
So back to what I have done Two thin coats Thinning a high build finish It went well before and will again

The whole idea is the more you worry about building - the more that will go wrong ----- to a point

You do have to try things to fit - Think of what you want to do --- But make sure it all fits before you - Glue it

Bill - willierods.com

My hands did touch that section while wrapping/packing that section(cooked hotdogs during the end of the wrap). Taking all of this into account for the next builds. Hopefully it'll help other people who are just beginning. I'll hit it lightly with my gray pad tomorrow before recoating. Don't clean that with denatured alcohol?

Don't clean with DNA or other solvents and wash your hands very well before ever handling the blank. Even the natural oil from your skin can cause "fish eyes."

The second coat went on much better.

Also, wash your hands frequently when wrapping a blank. A persons hand is constantly touching the thread when a guide is wrapped. If there is skin oil on the skin, it will get transferred to the thread and cause potential issues.

Be safe

Nest time I would put CP on the whole area, if the CP doesn't adhere to the bare blank, then you have a contamination problem.

You may IMHO need two more coats

Bill - willierods.com

Put another coat while doing my tiger underwrap. It's full of dust and bubbles so I'm done with it. Gotta start somewhere. I'll post pics after I'm done with the tiger if it actually turns out ok. Should be moving my glass blowing shop here soon then I'll have a more dust/rabbit hair free shop to build in.