Michael, this is what I do. Not saying it will help but who knows.

Typically I'll put the foam on some type of arbor and spin it. Using a file, or maybe sandpaper, I'll get it turned down to the shape I want. I remove it, ream to fit the balnk, and epoxy it in place with rod bond. Then I put a coat of rod bond over the foam. Surgeon's gloves and a little alcohol let me shape it some before it sets. After it is well set up I dress it to shape with a file/sand paper. Then I wrap with thread and coat with epoxy thread wrap.

I haven't had a crush problem but the epoxy thread wrap isn't very abrasion resistant. To combat this I make the foregrip long enough that the ramp won't be contacting rod holder/gunnel of boat.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Have you thought about balsa wood as a possible replacement? Still very light and east to turn on a drill!

Hope this helps, Bob

Rodney and I talked a lot about coming up with a coating that would negate the use of the carbon skin. Not likely to look as good, but would hopefully effect the same result in one less step. I have some ideas that we just haven't followed up with. But it's some good stuff that might actually replace the necessity of the carbon skin for exterior hardness.

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I just make a ramp from the epoxy itself. Spin the rod, put epoxy on the blank and let the centrifugal force move it to the grip or reel seat. Smooth with finger with IA on it. Takes about a minute.

Mike is making a larger ramp, suitable for inlaying other objects upon it.

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Ron, I've done ramps like that, but I'm not that good at it. Also, like Tom says, these are larger, have room for feathers or decals. Surprisingly, they are very comfortable. I use uploading seats and size the front ramp to be just under the OD of the flange on the seat hood. That is important as it makes the coating of the ramp with finish so-o-o much easier, having flange to finish against. When done with all coats the diameters of the hood and the ramp are very close, and they are very comfortable.

Tom, I will be very interested in yours and Rodney's ideas when you're ready to publish.

One thing I was thinking about while working through all these posts is that the Riley epoxy is probably much stronger/tougher than wrap epoxy (I'll try to check it out), and a couple coats of it to start with might add significant dent resistance. I think it is clear enough, but if not, I could paint over the top of it then finish with wrap epoxy.

I am quite sure the suspected void mentioned above was in 6 # Riley foam, their intermediate density. I am not implying that there was anything defective about the core-some voids are to be expected. Relative to the characteristics that would work best for this application, 8 # would be a better choice. The parts are so small the increase in weight would be negligible.

Sorry, double post.,



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/18/2015 09:13PM by Michael Danek.

The only thing is, a void in 8lb and a void in 6lb will both yield the same thing.

I do find that pouring the foam in the winter months yields far fewer such voids. Another thing you can do, is test "crush" the part after you've turned and installed it, but prior to applying your epoxy. If you find a void and it collapses inward, fill it will a wood putty and then proceed as usual.

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Good ideas, Tom, thanks. By the way, I buy the foam already prepared into the cylinders by Riley Rods.

For those still interested in this string, I have found a glass filled casting resin epoxy that claims + ~20% increase in Shore hardness and over 100 % increase in compression strength. Couldn't find the tensile strength data. It has a milky appearance and good surface quality. Looks like it could be used for initial coat or two, then wrap epoxy to finish. Have not yet found any in reasonable package sizes.