What is the best way to start a wrap? in the end i always have sticky layers of tape that are a pain to cut off and clean.

You don't need tape to start a guide wrap. You're going about it the hard way.

The biggest problem folks have in starting a wrap is that the crossing or locking "X" moves on them because they don't bother to wrap the tag end around the blank a couple or three turns. So as they turn the blank the X moves or slips along the blank.

When you make that crossing X, take the tag end and wind it around the blank two or three times. Now when you rotate the blank, the X stays put and the wound tag end simply unwinds. By the third turn, the wrap is locked in place and you're ready to proceed.

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Frank,

If you are talking about a decorative butt wrap, I don't know of any other way to hold the wraps than masking tape. The method where you make a couple of turns of tape and then reverse the tape to sticky side up works well for me.

one method I'd like to learn more about is the popsicle stick thing. Rather than starting from the foregrip, you layer up some popsicle tips and paper towel? i think, and then wrap down toward the foregrip. this helps keep the thread marks off the blank above where your wrap would be (for some reason some rods i've done you can see the thread lines on the blank) and it keeps you from messing up the foregrip. but I dont know the proper method for applying the popsicle sticks. maybe you just put some in a paper towel and have one on each side of the blank, then tape the paper towel to the blank? any added info would be informative.

Frank,
If you do use tape, use the blue light release painters tape. This type tape has very light adhesive on it, so that although it sticks fine, there is not a lot of extra that remains behind.

Be safe

X 10 on what Roger said!!

Hi Frank
When I begin a butt wrap I tape Popsicle sticks on the fore grip and just above where the wrap will end. I then wind masking tape sticky side out over both areas. After I'm finished with the wrap and the binding wraps are on I cut the built up tape and thread off by cutting lengthwise on the Popsicle sticks. This has to be done very carefully so that no damage is done to the rod.
Rick

When using the sticks and your done with the wrap you start cutting the threads on the side of the sticks. There is a funnel caused by the sticks and the rod blank that you cut in to. Make sure to put a couple of tape layers on the blank then the stick then wrap the tape back onto itself - sticky side out.

When using the sticks and your done with the wrap you start cutting the threads on the side of the sticks. There is a funnel caused by the sticks and the rod blank that you cut in to. Make sure to put a couple of tape layers on the blank then the stick then wrap the tape back onto itself - sticky side out.

Are you just asking about starting a Guide wrap ???? Then listen to Tom
Is that what you are doing ??????

Bill - willierods.com

This may be the single most helpful tip i've read here yet. Thanks so much!!!

If you are having trouble starting guide wraps, I've found this process useful, especially on light rods near the tip.

Assume we want to put 5 turns of thread on the blank before the guide foot:

With the tag end, make 2 turns of thread around the blank
Cross the main thread over and put 3 turns on the blank
While holding the tag end, continue to wrap until your wrap arrives at the guide foot.
(you'll be taking off as many turns as you put on, and this cleans up the outer edge as well)
Trim the tag end so it lays on the leading edge of the guide, which helps the thread advance up the guide foot, in case your prep isn't perfect

With this method, there is no exact placement of the wrap start needed, or any moving the wrap close to the guide foot. Just start the wrap anywhere close, leaving enough room to put the minimum # of turns on the blank before the guide foot.

Happy wrapping!

Terry

For a decorative wrap, I've tried a lot of methods but the popsicle stick method works best for me. Think of it like a mini cutting board to protect your blank while you make one cut that cuts all your threads at once.

Layer 1, painter's tape:
Once you locate and mark your dec wrap location on the blank, spiral a single thin layer of painter's tape on the blank near the tip end of your wrap area. Painters tape leaves minimal residue when removed later on.

Layer 2, popsicle stick:
The next step is to check the width of your blank and popsicle stick. It's not a critical measurement, you just want to avoid having a popsicle stick that's wider than your blank, a little narrower is ideal - trim the width if necessary. Use masking tape to tape a popsicle stick down on top of the painter's tape. Secure it with a single band of masking tape on each end of the stick.

Layer 3, paper towel:
Wrap a paper towel twice around the blank and popsicle stick, and mark where it overlaps the second time. Take the paper towel off, trim it to size, then re-wrap and secure it with with three bands of masking tape: Don't go overboard, resist the temptation to wrap more than two layers of paper towel. Having too much paper towel thickness is a bad thing - it causes threads laid first to become loose as succeeding threads more fully compress the paper towels. Trust me on this one, as the saying goes, I've been there and done that.

Check:
Make sure the tip end of your paper towel is taped down to blank to secure it so it can't slide under thread tension later on.

Layer 4, masking tape reversed upon itself (or double stick tape)
Start a band of masking tape near the one end and after going around once or twice, stop and holding the tape reverse the tape direction and wrap it in reverse over itself with the sticky side out. Some people instead use double sided tape and just spiral it on. You now have sticky tape adhesive facing out.

Begin your wrap by sticking your threads to the outward facing tape adhesive. When you built up some threads and run out of sticky surface, follow the same procedure outlined in layer 4 to add a new layer of tape and sticky adhesive.

Purpose of the various layers:
Layer 1, painters tape protects blank finish from wooden popsicle stick and leaves little to no residue when removed.
Layer 2, popsicle stick protects your blank from your razor blade when you cut the threads off. The best analogy I can think of is it's like a cutting board you'd use on a countertop except sized for your rod blank. When you use your razor to cut the threads, you'll cut all the layers of thread, tape, and paper towel down to the wooden popsicle stick "cutting board".
Layer 3, paper towel serves two purposes. First, it acts to protect the thread from the sharp edges of your popsicle stick as you wind your thread on. It should be a thin layer, not bulky, no more than 2 full wraps. Second, it keeps the outer layers of tape from sticking to the under layers so when you cut through the outer layers of tape, they just fall right off because they're not stuck to the blank! This second purpose is what makes this method so nice.
Layer 4, adhesive side out on the tape holds threads, make sure wrap thread over itself, don't rely on just the adhesive.

If anyone has some tweaks I haven't considered, I'd like to hear your thoughts.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/09/2015 03:32PM by John E Powell.

John, You summed it up very nicely.

Thank you John, that is a very thorough explanation..

I'm still a novice so take my input for what it's worth. My work so far has been on small diameter light panfish rods so the popsicle thing is clumsy. I cut an epoxy stir stick and tape two pieces of stick together and lay them on the blank. The I wrap a layer of blue (for delicate surfaces) painters tape over that. Then the double-stick tape. When I'm done with the wrap I slice down between the sticks. Of course I have to be very careful since there isn't as much room for error that a wooden stick would provide.

Btw, 3M has two varieties of blue painters tape. Look at the color label on the carboard hub. A blue label is regular tape with a little more stick. An orange label is for delicate surfaces with a little less stick. I prefer the orange label since it peels easier, but it's a personal preference thing.

Oh, for starting a guide wrap I spiral the tag end as mentioned but I tape the end to hold it temporarily. Otherwise I have problems holding the tag end spiral while turning the rod.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI