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Tapering finish
Posted by:
Sid Thao
(---.sub-70-194-130.myvzw.com)
Date: September 18, 2014 11:26PM
Hello, how do you guys get the finish to taper from your winding check going towards the tip? I have a few inlays and I'm trying to get that tapering or cone shape effect but I keep getting a small indent between the winding check and then leveling out. I apply a little more finish next to the winding check but same thing. I'm assuming I'll have to tilt the rod up? Thanks. Re: Tapering finish
Posted by:
Tom Kirkman
(Moderator)
Date: September 18, 2014 11:33PM
Normal adhesion may get you enough height right next the check. However, there is something else you can do. Apply the finish and allow it to set as you normally would. But just before it is completely set, take the rod out and stand it on the butt end.
Now there is a proper window here. Too soon and too much will run down towards, onto and over the check. Too late and nothing will happen. But just right and you will get just a slight taper up onto the check. ................... Re: Tapering finish
Posted by:
John E Powell
(168.169.226.---)
Date: September 19, 2014 12:30PM
If its going to take a lot of finish to get the job done, I'll sometimes apply a fill coat just in the area that needs to be built up, then follow it up layer with a top coat that covers the entire wrap area. It's sort of the same principal of filling in the open spaces between thread bands in some decorative wraps.
I personally find it easier to get a more uniformly smooth top finish when I've pre-filled the low spot(s). It takes a fair amount of skill, correct timing, and in some cases judicious application of heat to get hat perfect finish or taper all in one step. It's something that in all my years of rodbuilding I've never mastered; I'm a bit envious of the people who have mastered the timing and the technique. The two-step fill and top coat should be a lot easier for novices to do successfully. Try laying down a the filler band of finish right in front of the check. Work the finish first up the side of the check, then taper the finish out to nothing extra at the other end of the wrap. You should uniformly soak the all the threads, just have nothing laying on top at the other end away from the check. the third step would be to rotate and finish the end away from the check, and lastly draw the finish from the tip end back towards the check if it starts to spread out by itself. Monitor it as it begins to set up and if necessary adjust the angle of the blank to keep the finish from flowing back out to the tip. This usually only happens if you try to build up a lot of finish. If that's what you need to do, try two thinner fill coats instead of just one. If it gets lumpy or builds up more to one side, just let it set up, don't try and re-position the finish once it's setting up. When it sets you can remove the buildup with a sharp blade or sand it to shape then top coat it again, it'll blend right in and look great. When i tried standing it on end, it just never looked as good. Different finish consistencies among brands will most certainly affect the chances for success. Maybe I only tried brands that may not have been the best choice for this application. Maybe Tom could share the brand of finish he has success with. That would be an important starting point. Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
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