Posted by:
ken khoo
(---.063.dsl.pth.iprimus.net.au)
Acquired a couple of 10' 2 piece carbon rod blanks and decided to try and keep the build as light as possible. Already built one with split cork grips but decided to use bike handle bar tape for this one. Branded tape at the bike shop was $30 - 40 here in Perth. Not impressed with that. Saw that cheapest was chinese stuff on evil bay so went with that. Paid less than $3 for two lengths and found that one piece is more than enough for one rod. The length of the each piece is about 1 metre and weighs less than 25 gram. Blank itself is not that skinny and so one layer is more than adequate as my hands are small size. If you want bigger diameter you may wind on another piece on the top of it but this depends on the od of your blank. Doing so only adds 25gm or 1 oz. After putting it on the od of butt grip is about 23mm. Biggest headache was how to secure endings. On bikes mostly are tape finish which I think is ugly, sometimes cord which is better as looks like bindings. I decided to bind first with Gutermann topshot polyester thread and then use heat shrink to secure. Topshot thread is much thicker than sewing thread and I flamed it to remove the fuzz. I'm going to epoxy the bindings rather than the usual finish as it's going to be covered by the heat shrink. Flex not important as it's the butt which doesn't flex a lot and the bike tape is spongy anyway and will absorb any flex that does occur. Doing this way the whole lot is easily replaceable when necessary. Also using cheapy heat shrink which is also less than $4 for 1 metre. Only need a couple inches or less to secure ending. Why am I using cheap stuff? Apart from saving money as the blanks are not branded and cost very little like $20 so there's no need to go upmarket. Better to spend on better quality guides. In winding the tape I started at the bottom working up to the reel seat. I know that if I start at the reel seat and work down finishing is easier as can use tape which will be secured and hidden under the butt cap with no fear of popping off as it's been known to happen in the bike fraternity. Problem with this is that rods are held upright and the joints are then open to water ingress when the rod gets splashed even though the tape ought to be water tight. Binding from the butt end means water flows off the overlapped joins. Last thing you'll want is water under the tape after your fishing session. Only need to stretch a little to get that water tightness. If you're not sure how much stretch get advice from your local bike shop. They will have done plenty of such grips.
Haven't decided on the quality of the guides yet but at the most be Titanium frame Sic for running plus stainless frame Sic for reduction and this set I estimate to cost about $40. If I use something like Fuji BNLG the whole set will be about $15.
Overall I'm quite happy how the grip turned out. I haven't bound the guides yet so the butt half of the rod weighs 230 grams. Butt guide, thread plus finish will add 5 or so grams. The tip half completed will weigh about 50 grams so whole rod will weigh less than 300gm. For a rod which rating is about 20lb and sweet spot casting weight 70 grams, that's not bad. Only time will tell as to how long the tape will last but at a cost of $2 per rod I'm happy to replace it when the time arises. It may have a short life and if it does I'll let you all know. Total cost of rod is less than $70 and I've already caught kilo plus tailor (bluefish) with the first build. Hoping to get something bigger. Have fun.
