I think I have heard people here saying that titebond II is okay for cork grips? I have some and plan to use it today on some cork unless the consensus is that you really need to use the titebond III.

The main difference is that Titebond III is waterproof....... fishing rod........ you choose

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/27/2014 09:43AM by Don @ American Tackle.

James,
Save theTitebond II for a job that may not get wet.

Use Titebond III for rod handles due to its water proof nature.

Good luck

I've never had a single issue with rod building epoxy for cork. Doesn't have to be stored in the fridge, either. All the "woodworking" glues I've used for "woodworking" always spoil before I even come close to using it all. I'll just stick with what has worked well in the past.

James
There is a big difference between a glue that's water resistant and waterproof. Titebond ll is water resistand an will work on your grips unless you store them in a bucket of water.


Here is a statement from their website that even says Titebond ll Prememium is used for outdoor projects. As a woodshop instructor for many years the Titebond ll is great glue.

Titebond II Premium Wood Glue
"Titebond II Premium Wood Glue is the only leading brand, one-part wood glue that passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification. It is ideal for exterior woodworking projects, including outdoor furniture, birdhouses, mailboxes, planters and picnic tables."

Now with all that being said if it were me I would still use Titebond lll if you use glue. I however, use epoxy for all my cork grips.

Tom



Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 05/27/2014 05:54PM by Tom Wewerka.

Or a very thin coat of rod bond Don't need much of it

Bill - willierods.com

rod bond = epoxy. Right?

Michael Danek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> rod bond = epoxy. Right?


Yes, paste epoxy.

Tom

I switched from epoxy to T3 a few years back mainly for convenience as there's no mixing and clean up is with water. Just use it straight from the factory squeeze bottle.

Both Titebond II and III work fine. III is finer. but both are good. much easier to work with and easier cleanup than two-part epoxy. From the limitations specs at Titebond's web site, notice that neither is for "continuous submersion." Tom W's right, big difference between resistant and proof.

Titebond II Premium: ..."passes the ANSI Type II water-resistance specification.Titebond II Premium Wood Glue is not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline. Not for structural or load bearing applications"
Titebond III Ultimate: "The waterproof formula passes the ANSI/HPVA Type I water-resistance specification. Not for continuous submersion or for use below the waterline. Not for structural or load bearing applications. "

Titebond III has a longer "open assembly time," whatever that means exactly, 10 mins vs 5 mins. "total assembly time" of 20-25 mins vs 10-15 mins.

is Titebond much better in transitioning between cork and glue to cork for feel-in-hand, over plastic epoxy? i think so.

eric
fresno, ca.

Eric,
X10 on the use of Tite bond III

I use titebond III for gluing the cork together. Nice, because you just use a wet cloth for glue clean up. Easy to have a virtually clean glue free cork after gluing.

Then, I turn the cork on the lathe. Finally, I use epoxy to glue the finished grip onto the blank.

Be safe

Question: When a builders opts for Elmer's, Lepages, Titebond or any other one part type glue requiring pressure to bond, what happens to the blob of glue under the ring that might be 1/8" too loose around the blank*. I wager it never sets, just remains gooey forever. With any of the thinner epoxies, it flows into the void, and cures.

* 1/8 on the diameter not the radius. So the ring is 1/16" loose on the rod.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/29/2014 11:26AM by Ken Driedger.

Ken,
Only use the tite bond glue, to glue the rings together.
After I glue the rods together using a clamp or threaded rod, I let it dry overnight.

Then, I remove the threaded rod, and let it dry for another 24 hours after I have pushed the rod through the grip a few times to wipe out any wet glue.

By first drying for 24 hours on the outside, and another 24 hours on the inside, the glue is completely dry.

Then, transfer the grip to the lathe and turn it to shape.

Now, take the completed grip and use epoxy to glue the grip to the blank for a secure and completly cured grip.

I know of no one who would use elmers glue to glue the grip to the blank.
Elmers and tite bond is a WOOD glue, not a graphite glue.

Be safe

never had any problems with rod bond It is a chemical reaction to cure

Bill - willierods.com

I agree with Roger, TB III works well on the cork but use epoxy to secure it to the blank. The only problem you might have with using epoxy to glue the cork rings together is that it could be visible between the rings. If you are trying to make the handle look seamless, using the TB III might be a better product.

Steve Hartzell
Lake Conroe - Willis, Texas

I used to use epoxy all of the time to glue the rings together. If, I am in a hurry for a grip, I will still use it, because I use 15 minute epoxy that allows me to turn the grip about two hours after gluing up the cork.

But, if I have time, I will use titebond III.
A couple of reasons. Plenty strong. The titebond III is stronger than the cork that it is gluing. Very inexpensive compared to any epoxy. Generally about 1/5th the cost of the epoxy for the Tite Bond III.

Another big reason is the easy clean up with the Titebond III. After gluing everything up and in the clamp, I just take a wet a rag with water and really wipe down the entire grip to remove any residue of glue on the outside cork.
The tight clamp keeps any water from getting into the joints. Then, when turning the grip in the lathe, there is no glue residue to remove that may be left on the cork after using epoxy.

Also, the glue line is less visible with titebond III than epoxy.

Also, the titebond III hand clean up is simple warm water and soap, rather than any sort of chemical as is the case for epoxy.

Be safe